Painting with pearl PPG. Any advice?

[DPL]

I found the color I want to paint my RT.  I'll have it ready to seal and paint in 2 weeks.  It turns out the color I want is a pearl yellow.

I've never painted pearl before.  Only base/clear and lacquer processes.

Anyone know the process for painting a pearl color? 

Or if anyone can guide me to the right place to learn about this, I sure appreciate it.

[mikepmcs]

What kind of gun you gonna use?

That's a 3 stage paint process, Base coat, midcoat,(or pearl coat when you add the pearl and spray it) and then finally clear coat.
Or is this Pearl Yellow you are talking about already in a ready mix (where are you getting it I guess is my question, sherwin, dupont, HOK, etc....)
Is it a ghost pearl,  iridescent pearl?

You'll want to use a base clear, or a binder to mix the pearls(spray mid coat)  before adding the final clear.

Air pressure is critical as well as with any paint job.
Give me some more info on the paint you are using and I'll try to help more.

With pearl,  it's important to reduce even more than usual to get that effect.

The gun is a big deal as well.  I'm gonna try out an Iwata gun this thursday or friday just for clear to see how it works(lvlp technology).  Our paint dude is sending me a demo just to shoot clear.

Last thing for now is always paint a test panel first to get the hang and see how it lays out, that way you can play with air pressure, fan, and stuff to get your desired result.  Humidity will be a factor as well.

v/r
Mike

[mikepmcs]

My bad, looked at the title and it said ppg.

v/r
Mike

[Silver R/T]

I havent shot pearls but I heard some pearls have pearl mixed into clear coat. Any truth to this. I was thinking about painting my Charger original silver but adding a pearl to clear to get that pearl look.

[71 B5383]

 Iwattas' Are  sweet for clear. Be careful,it's a man's gun,and you have to be fast and consistant.I use a Sagola,better than Iwatta,but they are extremely hard to get parts for,and are over seas like most.Next would be a SATA Jet. Anyways,unless you have a color and formula chosen already,take a look at some of the new car colors,all makes. They have some 3 stage pearl colors out there already. And they will already have a paint code for it,and the pearl will be factored in. You're going to want to spray your product at approx. 25lbs. If you're using an HVLP gun,I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting a gun pressure tester,as your pressure at the inlet of the gun will be different at the cap where it is atomized. You'll want 10-12lbs. at the cap,hence, HVLP. This will give you your consistancy and proper atomization. You apply your pearl coat no differently than the base coat.The bonus using the pearl over the base,is that the metallic can actually help you see how consistance you over-lap is on each pass.But remember to treat no differently than you do your yellow base,yes it is pearl,but it's still a base coat itself. Also I would'nt put more than 2 or 3 coats of pearl on,because it can drown the color own,and sort of look like there is not enough color on the car,along with the pearl effect. Kinda hard to explain. In the case of pearls and tinted clears,etc.,less is more,in a sense.
When yu do your test panel,try to use an old door or fender,using something small like a spray-out(test) panelwont be large enough to see the effect. Being yellow,pending on how good it covers,UNDER-reduce your base color(yellow) about 5-10% to get some backbone on the first coat and ensure coverage.Iwould de-nib if needed,if not just scuff it,and seal it with a white sealer.Some paints in certain colors with certain paint companies cover better/worse than others.And you only need a piss coat of sealer,meaning you dont have to spray it like it is clear coat,a medium to medium-wet coat is fine.White sealer just works better than greys with most light colors to help from "seeing through it". Example if your yellow does'nt cover for shit-grey sealer,maybe 6 coats of yellow base/with white sealer,more like 4,and look the same,or better.You can also tint your sealer(some systems)the color of the base,and that can also help with the ability to not notice nicks or chips if they occur down the road.  3 coats of clear with a little extra flash time inbetween before the 3rd coat and thats it. Being yellow and hard to see things while spraying,dont break your over-lap rules,meaning dont make too many passes in the same spot,causes runs. Bad spots for these are usually where panels meet.Try to leave it "not as wet" as the rest of the panel on the first 2 coats and nail it on the 3rd and it should flow nicely. If you are using an oven or bake cycle,let it set up for 10-15 minutes before you cook it,becuase AS SOON AS the heat hits it,its gonna flow,and run here/there.Especially with a 3rd coat of clear. Giving the extra flash time (extra 3-5 min.)in between your clear coats will aid in this. Before your next coat of clear,find somewhere on some masking paper to simulate a coat,touch it with the tip of your finger,if it is still stringy,wait a few more minutes,if it is more tacky than stringy,your ready for the next coat.Spray your clear about 10-15lbs higher pressure than your base. Theres my    . Good Luck!   
 

[dads_69]

I shoot PPG every day. Is it a custom mix yellow pearl or a factory pack mix? You'll want to use a white sealer w/yellow. You should have instructions as well w/product, if you don't, your in for trouble. Normally you shoot 1 coat sealer, in your case, white, flash time 15 to 20 minutes depending areas waiting to kick back. W/a pearl they're are many different ways of shooting it. Sometimes after sealer is laid down, pearl can go on first or second. Get a tech sheet before doing anything. Most of the time, you only put a pearl in the clear for custom mix jobs.
Sense you've never painted pearl before, someone who has would be greatfully appreciated w/you while doing so, if not, you might blow a lot of $$ and make a mistake. Not that you would, but it's not an easy color for a first timer to shoot.
Good luck and keep us posted.
1st  lay down sealer
2nd base or pearl
3rd second coat according to tech sheet
4th clear coat minimum 3 coats
You can tack rag between coats carefully, be gentle, not aggressive so you'll be rid of imperfections that land in between coats of base only, *** do not tack the clear coat***.

Mark

[DPL]

The color I want is 2008 Lamborghini Pearl Yellow.  I have 2 PPG numbers, one is for the solid and the other for the pearl.  The dealer didn't know which was which so he gave me both.

903667
903666

I planned on using an HVLP gun with 1.4 tip.  The actual make/model of the gun I don't know.  We sprayed base/clear on my super bee and it turned out pretty good after a ton of color sanding.  I did 2 coats base and 4 coats clear.

What temperature would be ideal for doing this job?  Its a little warm up here in BC right now (Canada) and the humidty is high.

Awesome advice guys, awesome.

[dads_69]

Temp should be between 62* and 68* for best results. Medium temp reducer also. 1.4 tip is OK, 1.3 would save you some material though. 1.2 for clear if you have it, if not 1.3 is second best.
You'll want to lay 3 coats of each for best results as well. 4 coats of clear if you feel if you need too, due to dirty-ness and etc.. in paint or clear. 3 would be sufficient enough though, as long as it lays down flat w/no runs.
Not sure which paint needs to be laid down first, that code didn't come up in my computer. No room for error now either.
Good luck and glad to help. Tell the dealer that sold you the material to look into the computer for tech sheet, other wise he needs to find a new job!
Mark

[mikepmcs]

Iwattas' Are  sweet for clear. Be careful,it's a man's gun,and you have to be fast and consistant.

I don't know if I qualify then, 20 years in the Military, almost 42 years old.  Think I can still use the gun.
  Just playing I knew what you meant.

Called PPG and they were closed for the night.  Give em a ring tomorrow and ask for tech support and see if they will send you a pdf file tech sheet.
their number...440-572-2800


v.r
Mike

[skeets 66]

I have painted with the pearls you add to the clearcoat.......1st thing is paint something that you can check out the color.......first time i used it was great,,,,car was red and just added a very small amout,,looked great,,,the next time i used it,,,,,,i got to crazy and it turned a black truck,,,,,,into purple.......so just play with it in small amounts before you paint to get the color you want......but done right,,,,,,they do look good

[mikepmcs]

Case in point... Just shot a pearl today on an Audi...   White base(x3)  then it only took one coat of pearl coat to match the color. Gotta be careful when trying to match em up because you can't just keep laying it on... the effect will change rapidly(doesn't apply in this case but...)   I shot it out of a Devilbiss gun as well

I actually shot it at a medium/high air pressure too, I didn't just explode it out of the gun. 

I reduced it 100% by the way.

v/r
Mike

[DPL]

Well, I am really looking forward to this.  Some details:

PPG code is 903666 which is a 3 stage system.

I'm looking at the following cost:

$141 for sealer (1 gallon)
$354 for base (1 gallon)
$275 for top (1 gallon)
$143.97 for clear (3 gallons)
$27.99 for hardener

$1000!  I am sure it will be worth it.

I am assuming the "top" coat (which is how the PPG dealer referred to it) has the pearl mixed in.  Am I correct?

[mikepmcs]

$143.97 for clear (3 gallons)
$27.99 for hardener

What clear are you using, PPG? that is wicked cheap for clear, is that price per gallon of clear??

We did a 56 ferd truck a while back and squirted Dupont Glamour on it and it was phenomenal. I don't remember the exact cost but was in the low to mid $200 range for a gallon.  I just shot my charger with 7600 dupont mid grade clear and that was over $140 a gallon but the guy gave it to me for $100 just to get rid of it cause they were going a different direction.
That blows me away that price you are getting.  I want the supplier.

We use Montana at the shop on a daily basis for most jobs and that is $119 for the gallon and activator and we use Martin Senour spot panel clear as well 4:1:1 for quick panel jobs and stuff cause we can blend it easier and it dries wicked fast...and we like to support our local Napa when we can.

You are getting one heck of a deal on all those materials, I'd buy  a second set of everything just to resell it ...at that price.
v/r
mike

[dads_69]

What brand of clear and hardener? I don't see a price for reducer either.
A gallon of PPG 2082 is $200.00 and DCX 61 is $48.00 for 1 qt. also. You'll need at least another half gallon of clear. Gallon of reducer also. Material for a charger (size of car) that I've sprayed normally costs about $1200.00 to $1350.00. Thats just to paint the car, not including primer and misc. items.

Mark

[mikepmcs]

Where is Brian(1hot68) on this subject, i'm pming him cause i'd like to hear his thoughts on this subject as well.

Good call Mark on the reducer I didn't see that although we mix that Montana stuff with no reducer.

[hemi-hampton]

Sounds like that $143 for Clear  should be X3, same for Hardener, unless your using cheap garbage at $50.00 a gallon. LEON.

[Charger-Bodie]

The main thing to be careful of with tri coat is that the mid coat is COMPLETELY even! To much overlap and youll end up with more effect at the meeting points.

Other than that its pretty straight forard , about like any other base clear job.

[DPL]

The clear I quoted is called Omni which apparently is PPG's budget line.  I am told it is compatible with this paint.

And yep, its just under $50 a gallon

Does seem pretty cheap...

Taking orders!  Wouldn't this be a change, U.S. people buying from Canada.  Who woulda thought...

[hemi-hampton]

I'm familiar with Omni, Actually Painted my Red Dodge Ram Rumble Bee truck with Omni, Only because I was going to try to sell fast. Actually came out OK. They changed the name of Omni recently to Painters pride or something like that. LEON.