Motor plates anyone?

[J-440]

  Was wondering if anyone has used elephant ears (motor plates) to mount the engine.  I'm assuming that you also need the tranny/engine plate as well, then of course the tranny mount.  Seems pretty simple since you can move the motor as far back as the firewall will allow for better weight distribution.  I'm gonna try something a little different and was curious as to how the install would be.  Doesn't seem too hard...still would welcome the experts opinions.  Thanks.

[aifilaw]

You've got a long way to go if you are shooting for weight distribution, may have to cut the firewall out.
I've never hear of anyone doing this before, but a 440 long block and a tranny is around 1300 lbs, about 900+ of that is supported directly by the mounts, make sure they can take it.

[Steve P.]

I used Elephant ears on my first 65' Coronet. Never had any trouble. The 65's had the motor set way forward though and I had to modify my tranny tunnel to move it all back.

The ears can handle all the weight and the torque. You will need a type of strut rod to keep the motor from moving forward and backward while stabbing the go peddle and brakes. The ears will NOT help at all in that situation. I think Shoemacher* makes such a strut.

I would suggest hanging your 440 and tranny on a cheery picker with the headers and all on the motor and see just how far you can move it back and what will be required to move it to where you want it. Headers can be another issue with moving the motor back.

On the 65' everything was good except for the tranny tunnel. Now many are just going to the later "K" frames in the 62'- 65' B-bodies to do the same...

Good luck and keep us posted with your results.

[J-440]

  This is obviously not going to be a stock motor so it will be lighter than normal.  Both plates are 1/4" thick heavy duty aluminum and the K-member is from Magnumforce for oil pan and header clearance.  I did not realize that the forward/rearward strut mount from Schumacher was needed, thanks for that tidbit. I've seen this on drag cars that a steel 1/4"  "L" bracket is bolted to each edge of each plate (4) and then bolted to the subframe.  But the big question is should I use a solid or polygraphite tranny mount?  I'm assuming some type of graphite bushing is going to have to be used at each corner of each plate to prevent engine damage from all the vibration if I did not use them at all.  And yeah, I'll be moving the setup far back enough not to cut into the tranny tunnel or the firewall.  Thanks for the input guys.

[Steve P.]

In most cases the motor plates are used to make the motor and chassis one solid unit. They are designed for drag racing. Making the motor and chassis one piece keeps you from losing a tiny bit of time in your Et. Also the plates make motor changing quicker and easier. Some people will TIG weld their plates and water pump housing together for additional strength and ease as the housing will become structural with the plates and not only depend on the  housing bolts squeezing the plates. This should only be done when your mock up is perfect.

Most times when plates are used (in full out drag), at the front of the motor, a tranny plate is also used to keep the tranny solid in position.  Using both really keeps everything solid in place.

Using just the front plates I would use a poly tranny mount and a strut rod.

I would really like to know what your plans are for this car as some of the mods you are looking into can be much more work than they are worth depending on what you looking for out of the car.

[Blown70]

My 70 has them but has been modified to be a drag car.  Has the strut rod, but also a custom fabbed tranny mount.

[J-440]

  Steve, this will be a road race car with street and 1/4 mile thrown in as well.  The car already has the chassis stiffening mods (8 point cage, subframes, torque boxes and shock tower braces).  A complete tubular front end from Magnumforce, coilovers and discs all around...I did the homework.  Now then if you mate the tranny and motor with the 2 plates, won't the tranny plate get in the way of the installation?  I'm not going to cut the firewall for clearance, I'll just move the motor/tranny close enough for weight distribution.  You mention to use a poly tranny mount for just the front plate...I'm gonna have a rear plate as well, still go poly? 
  I'll post some pics soon if I can figure out how.  Thanks again.

[Blown70]

  Steve, this will be a road race car with street and 1/4 mile thrown in as well.  The car already has the chassis stiffening mods (8 point cage, subframes, torque boxes and shock tower braces).  A complete tubular front end from Magnumforce, coilovers and discs all around...I did the homework.  Now then if you mate the tranny and motor with the 2 plates, won't the tranny plate get in the way of the installation?  I'm not going to cut the firewall for clearance, I'll just move the motor/tranny close enough for weight distribution.  You mention to use a poly tranny mount for just the front plate...I'm gonna have a rear plate as well, still go poly? 
  I'll post some pics soon if I can figure out how.  Thanks again.

The tranny plate is thin and should not really get in the way of installation.  I can show you what mine looks like.  I do have to get a pic. LMK