"Cheapo" front disc brake conversion and parts list and numbers...

[Mefirst]

Parts you need to buy "used" or "borrow" from your neighbours ride

Steering knuckles from a 73-76 A-Body or 73-74 E-Body.
- There have been several discussions over time about using other steering knuckles (these are a tad taller) from other Mopar cars, that these knuckles will alter the steering geometry, bla, bla, bla.. But members here have used different Body knuckles with out any problems.. So its up to you...

Callipers and caliper adapters. Search your local junk yard or again "borrow" these items from your neighbours ride... Its also a good idea to have the callipers rebuilt, do it yourself or have a Brakeshop do the work.. Also note that the calliper adapters come in two "sizes" one for the 11.75" rotors and 10.87" rotors. Also about the callipers, In my op. don't use the "Slider" type callipers, try to get your hands on the Kelsey-Hayes type callipers. (You can buy the K-H callipers brand new from YearOne Part # NG7074LH / NG7074RH for 1970-73 B-Body or check your specific year model you want)

In my op. also buy brand new rotors, they are not that expensive... You should be able to get the rotors from your local parts store..

Parts list and Part # (This is the parts list for using A-Body 1973 knuckles, K-H callipers and 10.87" calliper adapters/rotors)

*Wheel bearings KOYO Hi-Cap
-Inner bearing LM 67048 x2
-Outer bearing LM 67010 x2

*Greasecup Size 1 25/3" MOT 13975 x2

*Brakepads NJA M7080 or EIS MD85

*Calliper Pins for the K-H callipers EIS H5017 (The rubber bushings usually come with the pins, but if not, here is the Part # for the Calliper Pinbushings for the K-H callipers United 82107)
NOTE. There are these funny looking spring steel "washers" that keep the calliper pins from rattling about. I don't know the Part # for these, but if you buy brand new callipers from ex. YearOne these come with the callipers!

*Rotors 10.87" EIS D1703 x2

*Proportioning valve Wilwood WIL260-2220

*ALL Star steel braided brake hose ALL48103 18" long x2 (ALL48104 21" long in case you need a longer brake hose)

*Brake hose Banjo fitting  ALL Star ALL50062 x2

*Brake hose Banjo bolt ALL Star ALL50072 x2 (You also need Copper washers x4)

*Brake hose to brake line "adapter" fitting XRP402603 x2

*Master brakecylinder UNITED MC36307

*Splash shields x2 (Have no part # for these, but should not be that difficult to get from your local Parts Store)

*Brand X Brake Fluid...


You can find more info at this Web Addy... http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html


Enjoy... Tom

[Chatt69chgr]

This is the disc-o-tech method that was detailed in one of the Mopar magazines several years ago and it's a good method.  It's been discussed extensively on here.  I would add a few thoughts.  The rotors are available in both 10.87 and 11.75 sizes.  Unfortunately, they are no longer available USA made.  All from China now----as of about 6 months ago.   As stated, you can use either the sliders or the pin type calipers.  Have to use the matching caliper adapter.  The caliper adapter for the larger rotor is hard to find in junkyards-----smaller ones are easier----particularly for the sliders.  The calipers themselves are available rebuilt from Cardone--either type.  One reason to go with the sliders is that you can get a real good pad for them.  You can't get a real good pad for the pin type.  If you go with the sliders, get the calipers with the fiber piston---not metal--look at 79's.  I don't recall what size and part number brake hose is used with these but it has been mentioned on here----I am talking about the std rubber hose.  On 69's you need to rear mount the calipers to keep from hitting the front sway bar.  I won't go into the steering knuckle issue.  It's been discussed extensively.  The dust shields are available repop for about $80.  I think it is better to buy these as it's very time consuming and hard to really do a good job cleaning up a junkyard set.  The correct master is now available repop from NAPA and a very nice piece.  The correct booster for a 68 or 69 is still not available except used and they are really hard to find.  You can substitute a Midland Ross booster.  Call MBM Brakes in Asheville, NC and raise cain and maybe they will repop the Bendix Booster which they have been screwing around with now for 4 years.  The correct proportioning valves in brass are now availble from Inland Tube----just came out a few months ago. 

[Mefirst]

Chatt69chgr

Good info... Hope other members put their in as well, so we can get a good thread about the parts and part numbers. This brake topic comes up so often, I think a thread like this would answer many questions... There is in my op. no "right or wrong" parts etc.. to do the conversion, its more about what you want, stock looking or what ever after market look.. Personally I went with what parts I could easily get my hands on....

/Tom

[Needa68]

I read the article at this location http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html and hope that I'm interputing it correctly. Am I correct in beliving that I can take the rotors, calipers, knuckles, hoses, adapters , ect. from a 1973 Chrysler New Yorker and install them on our 1968 Charger along with 15 inch wheels?

[John_Kunkel]

You read it wrong. The '73 Chrysler is a C body, none of the front brake parts will fit your B body '68 Charger.

Although the folks at Mopar Action spin tales of doom for using the F-M-J brakes on B bodies this alternate opinion is worth reading, especially since the recommended A body stuff is getting harder to find:

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/spindles.shtml