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installing rolling quarter windows on an SE

Started by NichIowa, October 15, 2005, 03:46:52 PM

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NichIowa

I have a 74 Charger SE but I have already purchased the regulators and removed the factory windows and the factory filler so now I have the "boomerang" exposed and sanded.  I need some help with the fabricating process.  If possible I need close up pictures of all angles of the windows, installation, and modifications to door jams, drip lip, etc.  Any help would be appreciated especially someone who has done it before.
Thank You

Nacho-RT74

I think still nobody on forum have been done. several ask bout that but still nobody done because the king of job is needed specially on drip rail area.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

almost forget... ae you sure you have ALL the brackets ?... there is one bracket with 2 7/16" head ex bolts that bolts on floor extension ( inside the quarter inner frame ) with also 2 7/16" bolts. On that bracket goes fixed the lower part of regulator channel and also adjust there.

The other bracket is on top.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

73-se

I've been working on this project- I'm in the home stretch now. I'm thinking of doing a write-up with pictures. I'm still looking into how it should be done and if there is any interest in this. In the meanwhile I can make a few recommendations for you. If you have the welded in post its going to have to come out. The rear upper panels (at least) will have to be changed. The original panels will not reach the new window and will leave a large gap on the inside. The replacement panels, at least the ones I have seen, have a larger wood grain section, which doesn't exactly match your original front panels- again this is based on my personal experience on an SE with the louvered windows.

You'll also need new roof rails for your weather stripping and you'll have to fabricate a new drip rail. I did this by getting a strip of 1/8" x 1/4" steel which I cut in half and welded into a T shape. Then I cut this down and welded onto the roofline to match the orginal drip rail. It will still have to be ground and shaped before you can get the trim over it, but its close. The trim is another thing you'll have to get.

Assuming you have the correct windows and brackets, that's pretty much a straight bolt in. I was quite suprised to find that that was the easiest part.

If you have any more question I'll try to help...

-Jeramy

NichIowa

Thank You very much for the help on this matter, any pics would be great.
thank you once again.
ramsey

Nacho-RT74

-Roof rail molding
-regulator with complete brackets set ( lower and upper ).
-Top of inner quarter bracket... is a bracket where rest the inner upper interior panel.
-Glasses.
-WH23 or WL21 ( only would need to open the crank hole if is WL21 or WH23 with electric window ) upper interior panel... Note: be sure if you have regular or brougham panels kind on front to match the rears.
-PLASTIC SAIL PANEL.----------------------don't forget that.
-cut the "U" opening jam where was the pillar post. Of course remove the post.
-weld a drip rail to elongate the existant.


Extra trim molds -
-the "boomerang" one if you will keep the top of door one ( and rear of fenders and hood )
-Drip rail mold. I think if Chargers were equiped with top of doors, "boomerang" and rears of fender and hood molds, ALLWAYS had the drip rail mold. I think was possible to have only drip rail molds and no the rest, but not on the oposite way.
-Vertical quarter window molds.
-2 on each side Fasteners to attach the lower "boomerangs" mold brackets.

Weatherstrips:
-Catwiskers, window felts or whatever you call them...   inner and outer PS: Yearone repros ones are pieces of S***T
-Of course Roof rail one
-QUARTER JAM seals.
-Vertical quarter seal.

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

73-se

If the pictures post in the correct order, this is what you should see:

1)The driver's side window post. After pulling out the louvered window frames (It's pretty easy, but you may have to pry out some bondo to locate the edges of the window frame) you'll have to knock this post out. Mine was welded in so I did some sawz-all work and some chiseling. You also see the roof-rail which holds the front window weatherstripping along the top of the window and the front of the pillar. This has to come out and be replaced with a full-length strip that runs along the roofline. There will probably also be a few small holes from the old windows that need to be welded up or soldered.

2) This shows the gaps you will have with the orginal upper panel and sail panel. They also have to be replaced. Both should have weatherstipping attached, which will meet the window. Up above there will also be gap along the headliner. You'll have to find a full length piece of trim for this as well, or if you can find a couple extra front pieces you may be able to cut them and get them to fit reasonably well.

3) This shows the gap between the new quarter and the passenger window. If your quarter windows didn't come with the trim that fills this gap, you'll need that. Above you can see where I have extended the drip rail. In this picture it is welded in place and ready to have the gaps filled and get grinded (ground?) clean... After it's complete, there is a full length chrome trim that goes over the top of it. I considered grinding the whole drip rail off and going with a smooth look, but that too would require quite a bit of welding and body work, and won't be very functional if you drive in the weather. However its cheaper, but remember whenever you weld on this roof, you're right next to the headliner, and it will burn FAST!   You can also see what it looks like with the boomerang trim sitting in place- you'll need to locate those as well.

I would guess that I've spent $500-600 getting all the parts, trim, etc, including shipping. Considering that these cars aren't super expensive right now you might want to think if this is the way you really  want to go. Obviously some of us have reasons to dive on in- I did. I would at least recommend you try to get all your parts before you start. That way you haven't lost anything by tearing the car apart, and if you change your mind you can always resell the parts you've acquired.

73-se

Another consideration I haven't really heard mentioned is this: Do you have a vinyl top? If so, you'll need to decided if you want to try to trim and fit around your modifications, or rip the thing off and go to a hardtop. I ripped mine off because I think it looks sleeker without, and because they're a rust trap... but that's just me. The purists are probably already sharpening their knives just because this post is here at all ;-)
-Jeramy

Nacho-RT74

THI IS A NICE INFO THREAD to future references ;)

and YES also forgot to mention the headliner sides moldings
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

THMPN73

Has anyone else attempted to do this? I think I remember seeing another post about this that had alot of info and pictures.

Another question is if its much easier to install a fixed quarter window into a louvered car?

I would like to take on this project this winter but need alot of guidance

THMPN
Don't worry, I've got good tires...