Help, I have no power!

[garyp49]

I have a 1973 Charger SE.  It had sat for a while and then I went to start it and all it did was turn over.  I had this problem before and it was the ECU.  I replaced the ECU and the car started up and ran great for 1 day.  Then the alternater went.  I replaced the altenator and battery; and while I was at it the voltage regulator.   The car ran great all day and then on my way home the power began cutting in and out, then the car went dead.  Since then I have no power what so ever.  When I turn the key I get nothing.  The lights won't even come on; the gauges don't move; nothing.  I'm stumped.    Does anyone know what could be the problem.  I would appreciate any leads or suggestions. My poor car sits with plastic taped over the driver side window and a blue tarp covering top of the car because the window is stuck in the down position.   

[charger Downunder]

I would start looking at the ignition switch.

[myk]

I'm guessing here, but it's like the car just ran the battery down after you installed it.  I'd say the car isn't charging at all.  Have you confirmed that you were getting the right voltage readings at the battery, and then  the 'alt after you installed them? 

[BigBlackDodge]

Fusible link at the bulkhead ok?


BBD

[John_Kunkel]

I'm with myk, sounds like the battery just went dead, one of your new charging components isn't working.

You need to do some testing with a multimeter.

[Goodz]

I read the title of this thread and thought he was referring to his gf/wife.  I was gonna say, "Join the club, man!"  LOL

[Nacho-RT74]

LOL!!!

well some to say:

-ignition switch ? no, headlights takes power before ignition switch and he doesn't have lights either so SPECIFICALLY to this problem that is not

-Fuse link ? I would start with that check wires between starter relay stud and bulkhead. They are just the blue fuse link and the red up to bulkhead. If those conections are tight and good, you should be have power on batt side of fuse box, red wire of ign switch. Alos power on headlights assuming wire up to lights switch and switch itself is good.

-is battery wire running to starter relay good and tight ? is battery conection clean and tight ?

Then for the PROBABLY non charging issue... several points to check:

Bulkhead conections on engine harness, assuming the red wire coming from fuse link is good. clean and tight. Thats the fiist place where preoblems began.

Didn't you notice ever the ammeter reading ?

Check the ammeter nuts on back of cluster. to get clearance and a visual room need to remove radio although you can fit your hand and locate ammeter studs to check tight of wires up there.

Then if you have good engine harness terminals, clean and everything, need to check for power with ignition RUN position on:

-Ballast blue wire
-ECU blue  traced yellow wire
-Blue wire at regulator
-Blue wire at alt brush

Then continuing checking, regulator need to be TIGHT againts firewall. Same as ECU, both need to be GOOD GROUNDED on chassis. If ECU is loose, distribuitor pick up never gets the ground to close magnet circuit. If regulator doesn't get good ground, alt brush with green wire never gets power from negative pole to create the magnetic field to generate the power back.

Mopars are famous for burned/broken terminals on bulkhead, specifically on headlights and engine harnesses and MORE SPECIFIC on charging system what at the end of history affects on everything. Unplug those harness and check there what you find.

this history could be continued...

cya and keep us updated

[garyp49]

Sorry I haven't respinded to any of the great suggestions you guys have given me.  My computer had a virus problem I had to take care of.  I will try all of the aforementioned suggestions and get back to you.  Thanks again.   

[Hemidog]

And open up your driver door, and fix your window regulator, usually just a small problem, like a little lubrication.

[Nacho-RT74]

maybe windows are powered