Lazy 440 -69

[Belgium R/T -68]

I got my GTX -69 home after 5 months waiting and after a testride I can only confirm what Mike said during the cars stay in Florida, a total rebuild 440 HP -69, build according to factory spec 1969 including original converter (new) and running perfect but absolutly no power what so ever. Hell, even my Volvo is quicker.
What can be wrong? The heads are pocket ported with bigger valves, the rest is standard. Can they have got the wrong converter or can the timingchain be wrongly mounted?
And yes, I have proof of the enginerebuild. 

[mally69]

What exactly is it doing... 

[Belgium R/T -68]

What exactly is it doing... 

The engine is "tired", running good at all RPM's but so slow.

[mally69]

Well, what is your stall speed , cam specs, gear ratio,and where do you have your ignition timing set at, carb size and make   The more info the better....

[Belgium R/T -68]

Will check the service manual but everything in and on the engine is the same spec as a 440 HP for a -69 GTX should have including converter.
Only difference is a new eddy 600 cfm carb but it was the same problem with the old bigger one. I have also tried to set the timing differently
but only getting poorer result. Heard about something called a "retarded" cam, what's that and could that be my problem?

[mally69]

Retarted cam was my next guess. If your cam is retarted then it will be gutless on the bottom end but once the engine got wound up in the higher rpms it would start to run better. If it were advanced its bottom end power would be definatley a cool feeling but dies off in the upper rpm. So, usually degree the cam and set the cam timing set at the zero mark then you get best of both worlds. It could be a lots other things but, thats a possibility if somone else assembled your motor.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Thanks, the seller also thinks that could be the case but since it's 10 years ago the engine was built he can't be sure. I guess I have to check. 

[1BAD68]

an improperly hooked up or missing kick down linkage can cause the engine to feel weak

[Belgium R/T -68]

Tried that aswell, also no vacuumleaks. If the camtiming is ok I guess a wrong converter can have been installed.

[1BAD68]

but you should still feel lots of torque at 2500 rpm and up, if not I'd be leaning towards gearing and transmission problems

[rt green]

check to see if your dist cam gear is in the correct position, not a tooth off

[Belgium R/T -68]

Don't you correct that by setting the distributor on cylinder 1 at assembly of the engine?

[Duey]

A 600 CFM carb?  Stock U-code engine with pocketed, upgraded valves would need a bit more breathing, would it not?  (I don't think I'm over the top with my 850 Pro-form and a .509 breathing through pocketed 346 heads with 2.14/1.81 valves)  Even 4 to 6 degrees retarded should still be working 3500-5500 rpm (although I do agree that unless the build sheet included details that the cam was degreed, that should also be checked.)  If the cam hasn't been touched since the engine was rebuilt 10 years ago, should this engine have felt "tired" right back 10 years ago?

Cheers
Duey

[rt green]

Don't you correct that by setting the distributor on cylinder 1 at assembly of the engine?
[/qu

yes. i just thought you should check that to be sure it was correct. it doesn't take long, and makes a dramatic difference

[Kevin68N71]

I would check the easiest things first, which you might have already done.

Secondaries on the carb not opening.

Is it rough?  Are you running on all cylinders?  When I finally got mine running, it was very smooth but had no power.  4 cylinders were not putting out as they should, but they did so in such a way that the engine was smooth, just 0 power.  Right plugs?  Right gap?

Someone mentioned kickdown.  If that throttle rod is not adjusted properly, you will be dropping into drive (third) really quickly and you will be lugging all over the place, but it will be smooth!  Been there, done that.  My Super Bee came to me with the throttle rod just laying on the intake manifold, who knows how long it had not been hooked up.

[Belgium R/T -68]

What's this? The rotor pointing at cylinder 1 cable on the distr cap. Shouldn't mark on camshaftsprocket point towards the mark on the crankshaftsprocket? 

[Blakcharger440]

What's this? The rotor pointing at cylinder 1 cable on the distr cap. Shouldn't mark on camshaftsprocket point towards the mark on the crankshaftsprocket? 

If your #1 piston is at TDC compression stroke and that is where your timing marks are then your timing gear is waaaay off! 

[Belgium R/T -68]

3 teeths wrong! No wonder it was lazy. Hope the valves are ok.

[Mick70RR]

Looks like 3 teeth to me, that's 43 degrees advanced!

[mally69]

My grandpa timied a 440 3 or 4 teeth off and its endd up swallowing a valve. Ill bet the guy that assembled it lined up the keyways instead of the marks beside the keys. 

[Mick70RR]

My grandpa timied a 440 3 or 4 teeth off and its endd up swallowing a valve. Ill bet the guy that assembled it lined up the keyways instead of the marks beside the keys. 

You're right, I did the same thing myself once, but when I checked the valve to piston clearance I knew something was wrong because the intake valve just touched the piston. Easy mistake to make with these multi position timing chain sets.

[mally69]

Yea he could not find out why it would only rev to about 2500-3000 rpm and fall completely flat on its face. And thats why. I beleive that with ford you do line up the keyway, but not mopar.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Now I adjusted the camshaftsprocket 3 gears but left the cranksprocket like it was, is that correct?

[Blakcharger440]

That dont look right either. Line em up.... straight up. Or is it the pic that makes it look that way? Its late and I need to go to bed now as I am old. I will look again in the morning.   

[Rob R]

WOW..!! now that's something you don't see every day   can't say that I've EVER seen that

line up the dots...6:00 and 12:00...

at least you know what's wrong now