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Ignition Box Check

Started by Bob, October 11, 2005, 07:36:16 AM

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Bob

It's my last chance before I check the cam/valves. The 3rd generation guys. When you touch your ignition box, anywhere on it, does it shock you?

Thanks
Bob

Chryco Psycho

I have not had that happen on any Mopar eletronic ign box

andy74

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on October 11, 2005, 11:36:54 AM
I have not had that happen on any Mopar eletronic ign box
me either,sounds like something is screwed up,did you check the grounds on the ecu? i use star washers behind the bolts, to make sure they get through the paint-no ground or bad ground could cause this i guess?

Bob

I grounded the ICU. Even ran the engine ground through the one mounting bolt. I knew the shocking could not be right. I beleive this is the cause for the back fireing through the carb. I ran a thread before but it fizzled out. I did all my ohms/voltage checks on all components and leads. Replaced: Distributor, ECU, Ballast, coil and 2 suspect wires. Checked timming and plug wires. I'm almost posotive it's not in the cam or valves. Probly a stupid mouse given me a hard time. It get's real frustrating.

Witts End :flame:

cudaken

 I have a couple of point Dist I could send you just to see if it is the ingtion. But, I am sure you should not get a shock.

Have you shot the timing? Reason I ask if the box is bad timing should be all over the places.

                                                Cuda Ken
I am back

Chryco Psycho

I would install another ECU from anything just to see what difference it makes , it should not be shocking you so the ECU has to have a problem   

Ghoste

I have been discovering that ecu's can break down for and in a variety of ways.  I have had them fail outright, cause a hard start condition, cause a cruising rpm miss, and now a stuttering under heavy load from idle.  This last time it failed, I ordered two of the stupid things so I have one as a test/spare unit.  It's too bad they don't make a plug in tester for the stupid things.

Bob

I have replaced the ecu 3 times. 2 new ones and one from a good running vehicle. I think before I change the distributor again I am going to check the wireing harnes again. Thanks for your offer Cuda. If all else fails I may take you up on your offer. Ghoste, did you ever have the problem of the ecu causeing it to crack back up through the carb? It idles great and runs strong up to about 9oo to 1,000 rpm's. Timming was about 15 deg's.

Bob

defiance

well...   I'm afraid to say it and sound like a traitor... BUT...   technically, the GM 4-pin HEI modules ($16.99 at auto zone - 1980 camaro w/350 'ignition control module') are a direct replacement, you just have to put spade connectors on the wires.   The connections are labeled 'B', 'C', 'W', and 'G'.   B is ignition 12v, C is coil (NO ballast), W and G are distributor connections.   The grey dist wire goes to 'W', and the black to 'G'.   The module bolts to metal and picks up ground there.  I only know because I had to run an HEI module for a while with my ignition control box, but it's actually smaller, and a very reliable unit...   of course, it's GM, so it's the devil...   But it's a sub-$20, reliable devil :P

Actually, if you won't consider this because it's GM, you might consider this:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=18949

get rid of the ballast, get reliable ignition, and stay away from GM :D   it's a bit more expensive, tho (~$40).

Ghoste

I never had one bark up through the carb but nothing would surprise me with these things.