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No elec. power "anywhere" inside the car

Started by Hoggywood, March 25, 2008, 01:33:02 PM

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Hoggywood

I'm new at this elec. stuff. I wanted to check the fuse box but only found a small one (6 ? fuses) just below and to the left of the glove box.  I changed "everything" under the hood and even the ground wire from the motor to the fire wall, still no power inside as if there was no battery.

Hoggywood

Forgot to mention the car ( 1968 Dodge Charger R/T S, 440 ) Only modification a year ago was electronic ignition and electric fan.

Just 6T9 CHGR

Check the connections at the firewall junction connector....fairly common Mopar problem to have corrosion in these connectors....


PS---welcome to the site :wave:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Hoggywood

I found a wiring diagram on-line, I looked it over and apperntly the main hot wire goes through the fire wall through the juntion you were talking about and then straight to the ammeter gauge.  I loosened up the dash cluster and pulled it out about 4 inches because thats as far as it would go with all the stuff still plugged in. fortunatly the ammeter is on the far right where I could look at the back. the red wire was loose and when I wiggled it the dome light came on "Bingo". but the down side is the post that connects that wire is loose inside the ammeter. unless I figure out another way it looks like I will have to remove the intire dash face to seporate the gauge retainer from the dash face because it is all one piece. Next where to find another ammeter to match.  thanks for the help 6T9

resq302

On the back of the ammeter, it should be double nutted.  One nut on each post to hold the ammeter into the housing and the other nuts to hold the wires tight.  Chances are one of the nuts loosened up and tightening the outer nut is spinning the inner one also.  Just a thought.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Hoggywood

The whole stud is loose, as if it is broken. I have not attempted this yet, and wanted to ask first, but would I be able to hook the 2 wires coming out of the ammeter together (red and black) to bypass the ammeter to be sure that is my problem? I ask because normally, red and black dont go together, but the red wire goes to the starter relay and battery according to the wire diagram. The black wire goes to the distributor coil. So, im thinking they might go together, but figured I would ask first. Thanks in advance for any help. I appreciate any feed back. My car's been sitting for about 2 weeks now.

FLG

Yes you can just bypass the amp meter by splicing the two wires together.

Just 6T9 CHGR

Quote from: FLG on March 26, 2008, 02:27:45 PM
Yes you can just bypass the amp meter by splicing the two wires together.

I have done this to take the potential fire hazard ammeter out of the equation....common fix for our cars
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Hoggywood

WOW I did not know it was a fire hazard but it makes since, after connecting the two wires together with a proper connector the car works fine, just for the sake of restoration it would be nice to have but if the alternator goes bad I don't think I need a gauge to tell me that, so I'm just going to leave it that way.

Just 6T9 CHGR

I have hidden a small (& safe) voltmeter under the dash.  A few of the instrument resto companies can convert your ammeter to a volt meter if you want as well...
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Nacho-RT74

Chriss, as I stated several times, that is PARTIALLY truth. As far you have a healthy and good working/balanced charging system, you won't have any fire hazzard on ammeter ever.  ;)

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Just 6T9 CHGR

You can state it as many times as you want....unless I have brand new wiring with a brand new ammeter I aint trusting it! :nono:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Nacho-RT74

LOL...

well, is true that will be nice somebody makes an aftermarket high flow ammeter for our cars...

DOES ANYBODY OUT THERE READING THIS ? LOL
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html