News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Time for a new dash harness

Started by 471_Magnum, October 08, 2005, 01:09:40 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

471_Magnum

My buddy and I were cruising up US-41 heading for IRP to attend the Indy Chrysler Classic. About 25 miles from home we got struck by an electrical demon.

My aftermarket stereo cut out a few times, then I checked the amp gauge and noticed it swinging pretty wildly. I shut off the stereo. I reached down and checked the ignition switch and it was HOT. A few seconds later, the amp gauge pegged to discharge, then back to charge. Engine cut out for a second. Then a puff of smoke from under the dash.

I killed the ignition and wrestled the car to a stop and off the road (with no power steering or brakes).

My buddy was out of the car before it stopped. Not sure if he was looking for the fire exinguisher, or if he had hit the "EJECT" button. He bailed in a hurry.

Thankfully, nothing caught fire.

We poked around a bit, but it was obvious there was no juice to the ignition switch.

Ironically, I just renewed my AAA membership yesterday.

So now I've got the car home. Upon closer inspection, I see the fusible link did it's job. So I've obviously got a short somewhere, even though I have found nothing obvious.

I think this dash harness has had it. Even if I can find and repair the short, it needs replaced. It's been splice and modified more than a little bit over the last 36 years. I've personally had to replace a cooked plug at the ingition switch and headlamp switch, so it's time.

Not a job I look forward to... not cheap either. Thank heavens for the 20% year one code. That will save me over $100.

Any tips for replacing one of these with the dash in the car?
"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

Charger_Fan

Well that sucks, but I'm glad it didn't catch fire on ya...you're probably MORE glad, though. :icon_smile_big:


Do you carry a fire extinguisher with you?

The Aquamax...yes, this bike spent 2 nights underwater one weekend. (Not my doing), but it gained the name, and has since become pseudo-famous. :)

moparguy01

Mopars seem to be notorious for having the wire to the amp guage burning out. Might want to check there.

Blakcharger440

Glad it wasnt any more serious than that! Sounds like a close one.

Silver R/T

heard of this happening too many times, fire extinguisher is a must
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

471_Magnum

"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

Ghoste

I did my car a few years ago as you know.  I also know you don't need to be told about the notorious bulkhead connector corrosion.
I changed mine with the dash in the car and I just yanked the old one out and put the new one in.  If I did it again, I would do my utmost to unplug one thing at a time and then route and plug in the corresponding section as I went.  That would be very difficult in the tight areas but with my extremely limited electrical knowledge, it was much harder trying tofigure some of it out after the fact.  Make absolutely certain the new one doesn't ground out any of the ammeter connections to the back of the cluster.  Popped a fusible link on that one.  (forget if I forgot an insulating washer or what but I remember it was a short to ground on the ammeter)
All in all, it only took me about an hour so you should be able to do it in half that.

As an aside, have you run the car in a full timed pass yet?  Pete keeps asking me.

nuati2d

it's actually a pretty easy job - I've done 2 '68 charger dashes and the most it's taken was 2 hours - 2nd one took 40 minutes.  It's easiest with the ashtray, radio and glove box liner out, you shouldn't have to loosen or remove the cluster if you're careful but I would lower the steering column. Just remember to be careful removing the circuit board connector - those pins are somewhat easy to snap if they're the least bit loose. Change the ignition switch - Don't run new wiring to an old switch especially after getting it hot like you did - cheap but good insurance, trust me...

471_Magnum

Quote from: Ghoste on October 09, 2005, 10:27:19 AM
All in all, it only took me about an hour so you should be able to do it in half that.

As an aside, have you run the car in a full timed pass yet? Pete keeps asking me.

I'm not intimidated by the job. Just looking for helpful tips. I'm pretty sure it's going to take the better part of a day.

Full pass was on the agenda for this weeked. Apparently, my car has some aversion to IRP. It was at IRP on the Power Tour that I lost my field connection on the alternator resulting in low voltage and my ignition cutting out at 3500 rpm. :brickwall:
"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

Ghoste

It likely remembers a bad experience there with a previous owner.

471_Magnum

Quote from: nuati2d on October 09, 2005, 11:22:32 AMChange the ignition switch - Don't run new wiring to an old switch especially after getting it hot like you did - cheap but good insurance, trust me...

Have you ever tried finding a '69 iginition switch? Not cheap or easy! One year only piece. NOS ones cost big $$$

I replaced mine a couple of years ago with a good used one. I've already inspected it. Nothing melted. Checked out okay with the multimeter. Wish there was an easy way to disassemble these to clean the internal contacts though without distroying it. I pulled my original cooked one apart, but there was no way I could recrimp the housing.
"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

shawnmd

Quote from: Ghoste on October 09, 2005, 10:27:19 AM
I did my car a few years ago as you know.  I also know you don't need to be told about the notorious bulkhead connector corrosion.
I changed mine with the dash in the car and I just yanked the old one out and put the new one in.  If I did it again, I would do my utmost to unplug one thing at a time and then route and plug in the corresponding section as I went.  That would be very difficult in the tight areas but with my extremely limited electrical knowledge, it was much harder trying tofigure some of it out after the fact.  Make absolutely certain the new one doesn't ground out any of the ammeter connections to the back of the cluster.  Popped a fusible link on that one.  (forget if I forgot an insulating washer or what but I remember it was a short to ground on the ammeter)
All in all, it only took me about an hour so you should be able to do it in half that.

As an aside, have you run the car in a full timed pass yet?  Pete keeps asking me.

Hey ghoste, I realize that i am replying to an old topic, but I found it when searching.  Could you tell me where you purchased a new bulkhead connecter as stated above?

Ghoste

New bulkhead connectors came with the harness.  I did the dash and underhood so I have new ones on both sides of the firewall now.  I still take them apart once a year and clean them and put a little dab of dielectric grease in there.

6670charger

Glad to hear you didn't have any worse problems.  I replaced the harness in my 66 about ten years ago with a complete one from a salvage yard, but, I've had to make some repairs since then.  Just don't want to pay the $1K they want for the new ones.  Had to do that with my former 70 R/T years back, although, that harness was so far gone there was no other choice. 

Parts don't last forever.  Sometimes you just have to replace things.
Proudly Confusing The Crap Out Of People Since 1963