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?????? EXHAUST MANIFOLD butterfly flapper valve thing question ?????????????

Started by rav440, February 13, 2008, 07:52:29 PM

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rav440

is there a need for the valve flapper thing on the passengerside HP exhaust manifold if your runner a little better than stock cam , 750 DP carb bigger valve heads 2.14/1.81 and a hotter than stock ignition ? the way im thinking it will restrick exhaust flow . i know it is there for a reason . but what ?

:popcrn:

thanks RANDY  :cheers:
1973 PLYMOUTH road runner GTX



chgr500

It's designed to limit exhaust flow when ambient temperature is cold....on a stock intake manifold it would allow exhaust gas to flow back up and through the centre of the manifold to help warm the fuel....as the engine warms up the flapper will open to fully allow the exhaust to have unrestricted flow......cold fuel charge doesn't burn too well...depending on your location and if you drive your car in winter months or cold weather I would keep it....of course I live in the NORTH  :2thumbs:

Just 6T9 CHGR

Chris' '69 Charger R/T


resq302

I took the flapper valve apart and removed the actual flapper mainly because I was having an over heating issue and have heard that these could fail or rust in the closed position causing an over heating condition.  I ground off where the tack welded areas were and smoothed out the shaft and reassembled it to give it the "correct factory looking appearance".
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

y3chargerrt


Just 6T9 CHGR

Chris' '69 Charger R/T


694spdRT

1968 Charger 383 auto
1969 Charger R/T 440 4 speed
1970 Charger 500 440 auto
1972 Challenger 318
1976 W200 Club Cab 4x4 400 auto 
1978 Ramcharger 360 auto
2001 Durango SLT 4.7L (daily driver)
2005 Ram 2500 4x4 Big Horn Cummins Diesel 6 speed
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Hemi

bill440rt

I rebuilt mine with the rebuild kits that are available in my '68 & '70. Works good as new.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

resq302

Quote from: y3chargerrt on February 15, 2008, 07:16:48 PM
Brian, Do the judges at Hershey know this???  ;)

Err....Ummm..... I don't know what you are talking about.... :ahum: :shruggy:  Its in there..... I swear it is. :whistling: :leaving:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

HeavyFuel

Quote from: bill440rt on February 16, 2008, 02:43:03 PM
I rebuilt mine with the rebuild kits that are available in my '68 & '70. Works good as new.

Do you remember your source for the rebuild kit?

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: HeavyFuel on February 20, 2008, 05:08:56 PM
Quote from: bill440rt on February 16, 2008, 02:43:03 PM
I rebuilt mine with the rebuild kits that are available in my '68 & '70. Works good as new.

Do you remember your source for the rebuild kit?

dunno if same source and dunno if same kit, but maybe this:
http://www.bradsnosmopar.com/nos7038exman.html

:shruggy:
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

69chargeryeehaa

On my manifolds (440 with HP), i just removed all the flapper system, and got a long bolt and nut with some copper washers, put it right thru the manifold, and called it a day, that way i stopped the leaking of exhaust, and didn't render the manifolds useless if i ever did want to re-install the original pieces!! :yesnod: :cheers:

OldGuy

I've got the exhaust manifold off of my 383 - so, how do you get the flapper out without cutting the shaft? - is it supposed to slide through the flapper?  Which end of the shaft on the outside of the manifold do you work with?
"I can tell by your sarcastic undertones, rude comments and total lack of common decency, that you and I could be best friends".