aluminum driveshaft & loop

[joflaig]

OK, it's -5 out and I'm bored and thinking about how to blow more money on my car...SO, for a street/strip (mostly street) I'm curious about swapping the stock driveshaft out for an aluminum one. This only comes up because my entire rear end is being rebuilt and everything is taken apart right now. The axelhousing and pumpkin were blasted and repainted and look new. The draftshaft looks like crap. I know they may charge me a good bit to "restore" it so I wonder if it's just better to replace it with aluminum one and add a loop while I'm at it.

Any pros or cons here?

[joflaig]

I agree about the loop. I am always paranoid about that. Looks like if I don't want to put any bolt holes in the car I''l end up with the US Car Tool peice:

http://www.uscartool.com/loop/mopar.html

Too bad it's so expensive.

After all is said and done I know I'll get charged several hours labor, easy, to cleanup and re-paint my current driveshaft...still why not spend a couple hundred more and get aluminum?

[firefighter3931]

I painted my rusty driveshaft with POR-15....looks awesome and cost all of $10.00 for the paint. The POR stuff works very well when it has something to bite onto (mild surface rust). I also painted a set of rear drums and leaf springs with that same can of POR-15 


Your driveshaft sounds perfect for the POR-Mans paintjob ! 




Ron


Ps. The US Cartool D/S Loop is awesome...i have 2 of them 

[joflaig]

Your driveshaft sounds perfect for the POR-Mans paintjob ! 

Yeah, sounds like maybe the way to go, especially if I get the US Car Tool piece -- though the exhaust may be a bit too close for the the loop. I will need to check the clearance. I would not guess that the loop assembly itself vibrates too much, but the exhaust pipes could brush it. Anyway, with my luck the TTI headers won't line up with the exhaust anyway when I get the engine back.

[firefighter3931]

Your driveshaft sounds perfect for the POR-Mans paintjob ! 

Yeah, sounds like maybe the way to go, especially if I get the US Car Tool piece -- though the exhaust may be a bit too close for the the loop. I will need to check the clearance. I would not guess that the loop assembly itself vibrates too much, but the exhaust pipes could brush it. Anyway, with my luck the TTI headers won't line up with the exhaust anyway when I get the engine back.

Unless you are running a 3in exhaust system you mght want to consider an upgrade. The TTI sytem fits perfrct with the US Cartool loop. 


Ron

[joflaig]

Well the headers will be 2". I was going to leave the exhaust that came with it. I can't remember the diameter of the pipes off the top of my head. The whole thing is welded w/ duel Flowmasters. The pic below is kind of old, but the exhaust hasn't changed, you can see what I mean, maybe, about clearance.

[firefighter3931]

Well the headers will be 2". I was going to leave the exhaust that came with it. I can't remember the diameter of the pipes off the top of my head. The whole thing is welded w/ duel Flowmasters. The pic below is kind of old, but the exhaust hasn't changed, you can see what I mean, maybe, about clearance.

Thats a Gnarly looking exhaust system 

Flowmasters !    You trying to choke that 512 

You need  a 3in X-pipe system front to back and a set of strait-thru mufflers (Magnaflow or Dyno max Ultraflow) 



Ron

[joflaig]

You need  a 3in X-pipe system front to back and a set of strait-thru mufflers (Magnaflow or Dyno max Ultraflow) 

Yeah, I know, I know.

My engine builder happens to be a TTI dealer so he can set me up. With the x-pipe setup how much room is there for the US car tools safety loop? How many inches back does it "squeeze" together?

[rare69]

I ordered a new driveshaft from mancini with the 1350 u-joints and it looks awsume, came with new slip yoke and u-joints and only paid about $300 bucks for it. had to replace my pinion yoke also but was only about $150 bucks.

[471_Magnum]

An aluminum driveshaft will most likely be larger diameter that the original steel unit. You may run into clearance issues with a drive shaft loop.

[joflaig]

An aluminum driveshaft will most likely be larger diameter that the original steel unit. You may run into clearance issues with a drive shaft loop.

Good point, you may be correct. I could try and explain why -- I read about this elsewhere -- but I'm not a mathametician or a metalurgist (I can't even spell).

Anyway, the US Car Tool loop does work with 3" TTI exhausts, I believe -- just waiting for confirmation from "John" that it'll work with an X in addition to an H.

[firefighter3931]

An aluminum driveshaft will most likely be larger diameter that the original steel unit. You may run into clearance issues with a drive shaft loop.

Good point, you may be correct. I could try and explain why -- I read about this elsewhere -- but I'm not a mathametician or a metalurgist (I can't even spell).

Anyway, the US Car Tool loop does work with 3" TTI exhausts, I believe -- just waiting for confirmation from "John" that it'll work with an X in addition to an H.

The US cartool Loop is adjustable and tucks up nicely into the trans tunnel. The loop itself should be approx 6 inches back from the yoke. I've seen the CarTool loop on several e bodies with TTI exhaust and it cleared just fine....no reason to believe it won't clear on a b-body. I'll be installing the X-pipe on mine with the bolt in loop and i'm not the least bit concerned. 



Ron

[joflaig]

cool, I think that just about settles things for me.

[Animal]

Looks like just the job , but won't fit with the gear vendors.

[gordo1968charger]

does anyone do a loop for the gear vendor set up?

[firefighter3931]

does anyone do a loop for the gear vendor set up?

Just about any bolt on loop will work with a GV overdrive but you will need to mount it to the floor. If you have frame connectors it would be possible to weld bars onto it to attach the loop....which is a better option, inmo.



Ron

[joflaig]

ok, here's a question: if you have an X or H exhaust the drive shaft would hit it if you had no loop. If you had a street build would all the noise the shaft would make mashing the exhaust give you enough time to hit the breaks and pull over, say, before it dead-headed into the pavement?

[firefighter3931]

ok, here's a question: if you have an X or H exhaust the drive shaft would hit it if you had no loop. If you had a street build would all the noise the shaft would make mashing the exhaust give you enough time to hit the breaks and pull over, say, before it dead-headed into the pavement?

Nope, a driveshaft spinning at a few thousand  RPM will cut through the exhaust tubing like butter. There's a reason D/S Loops are specced the way the are. 


Ron

[joflaig]

I guess in addition to the loop, if you wanted to be pre-emptive then swapping in racing u-joints wouldn't hurt, eh?

[gordo1968charger]

my gear vendors is almost finished now,i m getting driveshaft built by strange once its  back on its wheels,plus loop also.i m not taking any risks.

[BrianShaughnessy]

I guess in addition to the loop, if you wanted to be pre-emptive then swapping in racing u-joints wouldn't hurt, eh?

If you're getting a shaft built, then go with 1350 joints.    You will probably have to upgrade the yoke on your diff.

[firefighter3931]

I guess in addition to the loop, if you wanted to be pre-emptive then swapping in racing u-joints wouldn't hurt, eh?

I'm not so sure a solid joint is really necessary but the "Spicer" brand u-joints are pretty tough....i would use those. Unless you are upgrading to the 1350 joints and driveshaft.



Ron