tis the season for disc brakes...how much does it cost

[Troy]

Ok so what are the cost differences with the SS vs Wilwood and Race Vs Street?
and do hey all fit right on? Are those the main 2 everyone is saying to buy?

Thanks guys, this site rocks

There's also a company called Master Power. As for price, you should probably check around as I'm sure the prices have changed since I researched them last. The company Silver mentioned has the best price on Wilwood from what I've seen. The best price is swapping to A/E body spindles with the later cop car rotors (like what RD was describing). Here's the link: http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html These will stop a street car just fine. You'll have to hunt for the parts (or buy a conversion package off eBay) or you can just spend more money and buy an SSBC or Master Power kit which includes all you need.

I have sort of a stupid question. What would be better to get? Front disc brakes or rear disc brakes? . I want my car to stop better

1. Start your own thread instead of hijacking someone else's (I know you know how )
2. Front - weight transfers to the front under braking and the front end is already much heavier

Troy

[Silver R/T]

I have sort of a stupid question. What would be better to get? Front disc brakes or rear disc brakes? . I want my car to stop better

Knowing that front disc brakes do 70% of the braking on the typical car what would you do?

[blue69]

Rear disc are a noticable difference. Unless you want the original look they are a worthwhile upgrade. I did the rear for around $300 with the scarebird brackets from eBay.

could you elaborate on the scarebird kit?  I hear so much bad, but often from people who "heard it from a guy"  I am curios about your experience.  Some details and pics of your install would be great.  thanks.

They are a good kit for the price. I used an older model of their rear disc conversion. It used cadillac eldorado calipers and 11.45" ventilated rotors. I've heard of people having trouble bleeding them, but it looks like they did not mount them straight up and down like the donor car. The scarebird kit used the factory caliper angle so bleeding wasn't a problem. It is kinda hard to get the caliper pins in but they go in eventually. I had to have a new parking brake cable made for I think the driver's side. Also I had to have the holes in the rotors drilled out to fit the studs. Very little material was removed so you might get buy with different studs. I used studs a durango because I needed them to be 1/4" longer because the rotors are thicker than the drums. The new kits use a different rotor so you may not have to get different studs or drill out the holes. I had trouble getting the calipers to clear my 15 x 10" magnum wheels so I used pads with 80% life on them. The owner of scarebird said they fit a 15 x 7" magnum fine. I think the new rotors use a shorter hat, so you should double check with them it you want to use stock appearing wheels. Overall the kit works great. It may not have been a true bolt in, but for the price the modifications were not bad. I can't find any pictures right now. If I find some I will edit this post.

[MikeMacCham]

Ok sorry if i am  but since this is my first car...and that seems like a lot of stuff, which conversion kits are easyer for me to do? My father in law is a mechanic so he helps in binds but I want to do all the work to learn, are the easyer kits more expensive? and if so how much more?

[0X01B8]

I did the Mopar Action upgrade back in the day.  It's online somewhere and it's useful to look at for seeing what you'll need to do and parts you'll need, but I don't recommend it specifically.  It's a front mounted caliper upgrade which just causes all kinds of problems with sway bar interference.  I like the basic premise, which uses more common parts that you can get somewhat cheaply from your parts store.

[bill440rt]

Mike, i went with the SS brakes setup because it bolts on directly to the stock drum brake spindles....no front end disasembly required when going from drum to disc brakes. 

The willwood stuff is lightweight "race" parts from what i've seen and the rotors can warp under street use/abuse. 


Ron

I went with the SSBC Force 10 kit as well. It was the most complete kit out there for the money, as aftermarket kits go. The MP kit is pretty much based on stock stuff, with the SSBC kit the next best upgrade. I got the 4-piston calipers with slotted rotors, a manual setup. The fronts are Ford-based pieces, & everything bolts up to your stock drum spindles. The pads are over-the-counter stuff, SSBC supplies you with the make/model/part#'s if you want to buy replacement pads locally. My only gripe is that there is no rotor dust shield. Good part is that this is better for heat dissapation, Bad part is that the car is gonna get dirtier quicker from all that flying brake dust.   
Basically, I was happy with the quality of the parts & kit.

[HeavyFuel]

the cheapest route would be to find a 75 or up c or b body that has the sliding calipers at a junkyard.  purchase the caliper brackets and the spindles.  both will bolt directly onto your car.  now you can go to any aftermarket autoparts store and purchase new bearings (A2 and A17), rotors (5306 if 10", 5307 if 11"), new ball joints, and new brake hoses.  All which are ready available at any autozone, oreilly's, napa, or advance autoparts.  [these part numbers are autozone part numbers, but any reputable autoparts store should be able to look up your application or cross reference those numbers].  good luck.

How will this effect the usage of stock '68 wheels?  Isn't the spindle size different?  Are the wheel hub sizes the same across the board for swapped parts we are talking about here?