69 Dodge Charger Voltage Regulator Question.

[Ghoste]

Ditto the hid lights pulling it down at a stop.

[motoreese]

Honestly I don't listen to it that loud. I usually have dog with me so it's not cranked up.

So the subs ARE the problem. Damn it!!! So there's no way to have a sub in there??

Thank you

[Ghoste]

Not without redoing the electrical system and that means wiring and everything.

[A383Wing]

Honestly I don't listen to it that loud. I usually have dog with me so it's not cranked up.

So the subs ARE the problem. Damn it!!! So there's no way to have a sub in there??

Thank you

the subs do not draw more power if volume is turned up on radio...power from battery is the same with low or high volume from speakers

disconnect the amp and drive car and see what happens

[motoreese]

For a test drive and I disconnected the amp. She still does not like the headlights been on. I stopped at a red light and she wanted to stall again. But with the headlights off she rides fine. So what am I missing??

You said I would have to change the whole wiring system if I put in my says at me all the wiring from the alternator for all the wiring altogether?

[A383Wing]

what kind of ignition are you running and are you sure it's wired correctly?

[Nacho-RT74]

need a capacitor to hold the bass booms

( BTW you could broke out the alt again on your testing procedure )

[motoreese]

What do you mean I could broke out the alternator for testing procedures I don't understand that?

So I should basically take the stereo and have a professional hook up the sub woofer then shouldn't?

[motoreese]

UPDATE....
First let me thank al of you for all the great advise and to A383Wing for all the one on one help...

In put the stock alternator on, then ran a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to battery, which really helped, then I replaced the distributor after I tried setting the timing but it kept bouncing on me. I put a newer style electronic distributor I found on craigslist for $60 TADA!!!!
Car fired up and ran beautifully, timing was steady and I set at 20 degrees like instructed. Boy does she sound great! I turned on the lights, stereo nice and loud and stuck her in gear and she idles around 700 rather steady. Put her in reverse and again she ran fine. I tested the alternator and the battery and she was pushing out good voltage. So I wired my HID lights back up and it was great. My first test drive gave me chills, she never sounded so great.
I am so glad I found this site with all the knowledge floating around. You guys are great!!! Thank you to all of you that had input.
Now I just have to change out the U joints as I have a slight vibration.
A HUGE Mopar thumbs up to you guys....

[Carrnutt]

Motoreese,

I had similar problems with my car. I'd step on the brakes and the radio would die off, due to voltage dropping, to the dash, below like 10 or so, if I remember correctly. It was horrible, CD would eject, the power antenna would go down and then back up when I let off the pedal. Absolutely drove me mental . I troubleshot it for a long while . Prior to this point, I had already done the electronic ignition, dual field higher amp alternator upgrade (long before the "Gremlin" reared it's head). But I hadn't yet done the extra alternator wire to the battery (<-- I HIGHLY RECOMMEND, especially when upgrading the alternator ) or adding the parallel ammeter wiring. I ended up replacing my dash harness, and that actually fixed the problem. When I tested the old wiring, I found a crap load of "resistance" built up in the original harness wires causing the voltage drop. The major culprit was the main power supply wire.

I am only adding this here for anyone experiencing the same or similar issue, and to suggest that you consider newer wiring, especially when performing a lot of the upgrades and adding electrical drawing items. Before our cars experience serious injury or death  .

I follow and concur with Nacho's ideas of the ammeter and keeping it towards neutral as best I can. such as adding all extra draw to the alternator side (I usually use the starter relay). We only need to know what reading on the gauge is normal for our car when everything is working correctly to notice a problem when something isn't. It doesn't need to be a full swing of the gauge.

[TexasGeneral]

This sounds to me like the infamous ammeter problem... Wire around that fire hazard and the bulkhead then get on with your life..
And motoreese hijacked this thread

[fy469rtse]

69chargerboy ,
You can do the upgrade like nacho said, but I think a lot of guys have had experience with those Chrysler orange ignition boxs, I have had them fail without any warning ,
It's not too late to return it is it, and get your money back, they were good when there wasn't anything else other than the factory units
Then spend the money on a firecore system from Ron, I'm sure he will be on here to help and advice to install