Rust Mort vs Por 15?

[CaptMarvel]

My local automotive paint place just sold me a little bit of Rust Mort and some epoxy primer. Question is, is this supposed to be like Por 15? or does it work differently? Also, if I do a bit of sanding on the rust areas, and clean it up a bit first is this the best way to use it? All I have (thankfully) is some slight surface rust (on the taillight panel and rear deck) Any advice? Thanks...

[Winged 1]

I am not to sure about Mort but highly recommend going with something proven like por 15. Not sure if rust mort is designed for longevity like por 15.
Just my 
Eric

[hemi-hampton]

I prefer the Por 15 over Rust most but I usually dont use either but just Sand Blast instead. LEON.

[Silver R/T]

they work exactly the same, I believe Rust Mort you can get it cheaper. Ive used both and do not see much difference.
They both work great

[terrible one]

ZERO RUST!

[resq302]

Rust Mort is actually a mild acid that converts the rust into a black primer.  I have used it in the past and it is decent.  I do not like POR 15 in the fact that even after using their "preferred" cleaning and metal prep process, their stuff still peeled on me no matter what I did.

[daytonalo]

I'm with leon on this one , SANDBLAST-SANDBLAST-SANDBLAST !!!!!! The only time I use Rust Mort is when I will pour into a decklid to stop rust in between inner and outer skin !!!!!

[resq302]

I agree about sandblasting when you can.  But when I restored my magnum 500 rims, I used the rust mort on them since I could not sand blast the rim cause of the satin finish of the spokes.

[Silver R/T]

Rust mort still needs to be topcoated just like por15.

[resq302]

Rust mort still needs to be topcoated just like por15.

True but even the top coat of the POR 15 still peeled for me.

[71_Charger_R/T]

Rust- Mort is a phosphoric acid that converts the Iron Oxide (Rust) into Iron Phosphate. Which is a natural rust inhibitor (phosphate coated sheet rock screws for example) POR-15 has Phosphoric acid in it and treats the metal as it is sprayed on.  I prefer Rust-Mort when there may be a seam or area that won't be reached with a thicker product like POR-15. I don't use POR-15 as much because I like to top coat with a euro-primer that sands easier. This is my own personal preference, Either product will work well!

[Lord Warlock]

Not sure about anyone else, but i just went thru removing POR15 from a surface it really liked to stick to.  That stuff bonds pretty well to bare metal.  I did find out that while brushing it on works fine inside the car and in the trunk, doing so on flat panels in plain view leaves brush marks that have to be filled and sanded smooth.  Next time i'll try a roller.

[charger2fast4u]

anyone use POR 15 on there floor i'm in the middle of sandblasting my floor right now and i am going to use POR 15 on my floor is this a good idea  i don't want it to start to peel off as said above and have all that work done for nothing but to get rusted also i was going to take off my undercoating and use it on there to is this a good idea or is there a better thing  to use

[tricky lugnuts]

Don't know about Rust Mort, but POR 15 does not handle direct sunlight very well for extended periods of time. Otherwise it's always worked great for me...

[Lord Warlock]

POR15 isn't going to peel up from the floorboard.  Not if the surface is prepped per the instructions.  Since the carpeting will hide it from sunlight it won't deterriorate (sp) I cleaned off my floor, grinding off any questionable spots to metal and treated the entire floor surface with por15 (the paint goes a long way-but doesn't seem to store well afterwards, at least for long periods of time.)

[hemi-hampton]

This stuff is only good for rust & shouldn't be applied to anything but rust, It wont work on sandblasted metal or stick or work on shiny new floor/trunk pans. Great to brush on the inside of your frame rails though once you got the trunk or floor out. LEON.

[bill440rt]

The POR-15 factory store is located a mere 5 minutes from my office. I've been there several times to purchase their products. My entire '69 was sandblasted including the inside & underneath, which is where I used POR-15 to re-coat it. I've never used their products in the past, this was the first time. So far I've been very pleased.
According to POR-15 themselves, from a live tech person, POR-15 is made to go over either rust or clean, etched or sandblasted metal. It will stick, & has stuck, to my clean sandblasted floorboards & undercarriage. It needs metal with a "tooth" to bite into. It WON'T stick to smooth metal or painted surfaces.
Yes, I've also used it on the insides of frame rails, lower edges of the doors on the insides & inside 1/4 panels, etc. Works great in non-visible areas. For the undercarriage, I brushed it on (some areas were sandblasted very clean, small nooks & crannies & hidden areas still had mild surface rust). This cured for about a month or so, where I then degreased it with their recommended Marine Clean, sprayed it with their Self-Etching Primer, & went right over it with color after the primer flash dried. Even after a duct tape test, this stuff sticks like super-glue. Nothing has peeled. The undercarriage has been painted about a year ago, the inside was coated at least 2-3 years ago.
The metal needs to be free of oils or other contaminants, VERY important!! They stress NOT to use a petroleum based degreaser, such as Prep-Sol, etc. You need to use a WATER based degreaser such as their Marine Clean. Actually, the stuff smells like Spray 9 but is like 10 times stronger. It WILL burn your skin!

[is_it_EVER_done?]

Though I don't live in an area where rust is even a consideration, I seem to take it more seriously than most from high rust areas in as much as I try to eliminate any possibility of rust for far beyond my lifetime, and even my grandsons lifetime as he will ultimately get my cars.

Because of my obsession, I have used and tested most rust inhibitors over the years, not just on cars, but on items as rust prone as my swamp coolers, and buried gas pipes (which are about the most rust prone items that exist).

My opinion from my experience and testing is that Rust Bullet brand is the best inhibitor by far, and POR-15 is not only the worst, but I consider it a rust enhancer. The biggest problem with POR-15 is how unbelievably hard it is to remove it as it starts rusting underneath.

needless to say I have not used/tested every inhibitor on the market, but the Rust Bullet has held up for (so far) over 3 years completely submerged in water 9 months out of the year (in the first swamp cooler I coated) without any failure, and as a big side benefit for my area, it is a very effective thermal barrier to eliminate heat from the roof, floor, and engine firewall.

I am amazed by how "strong" Rust Bullet is. It resists abrasion to amazing levels, and is the only treatment I have found that actually "soaks in" to the metal to become part of it, not just coat it (I have gone to the extreme of dripping Aqua Regia acid on a coated panel with no wear). For those not familiar, Aqua Regia is the strongest acid on earth, and is the only acid that will actually dissolve gold! --- For those wondering why I would have such a strong acid, one of my hobbies is gold prospecting.

This is just my opinion from my experience so take it for what it's worth, but the Coast Guard, Bridge Maintenance companies, and many other entities have switched to Rust Bullet, so it is certainly worth considering. I wish it were publicly traded as I would be buying there stock.

[hemi-hampton]

Bill, Right on the back of the can, either Rust Mort or Por-15 the Directions will say dont use on sandblasted metal. These products have a chemical reaction with rust & turn rock hard & black. No rust means no chemical reaction. I'll read the cans tomorrow to refresh my memory? LEON.

[bill440rt]

Believe me, I'm not here to endorse anyone's product over the other. I simply chose POR-15 because they were local, readily available, & ease of use. People I am friendly with used their products, & they came recommended. I was also able to talk firsthand to their staff for any tech information.
I was unaware of the product Rust Bullet, or I may have very well used that. I browsed their website as well, their products look good. This was also really the first time I've used any type of a "rust coating." I've previously used only sandblasting, metal conditioners, etch & epoxy primer techniques. The '69 I'm building is on a tight budget. This was over 2 years ago, and POR-15 fit the bill at that time.

Leon, you might be referring to the properties of Rust Mort. According to the POR-15's website, it states, "POR-15® is a high performance coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces and concrete."
Also, POR-15 does not have a chemical reaction with rust, it bonds to the rust to seal out moisture: "POR-15® is unlike other rust paints because it stops rust MECHANICALLY rather than CHEMICALLY."

You can use it over sandblasted metal. This is stated in their tech sheets right on their website:
"APPLICATION PROCEDURES
Surface preparation: Rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal and
sandblasted surfaces are also good. Surface must be dry and free of
grease, oil, or other foreign substances."

Hey, everyone has their "favorite" product to use. I haven't tried Rust Mort or Rust Bullet. Maybe next time I will. I always like to try new products.

[scottmiller]

Just to throw another product into the mix,

The guy that did the metal work on my Charger got me onto this stuff called Master Series.  http://www.masterseriesct.com/

Don't know if it is any better than others or not.  What he likes about it vs. POR is that it takes topcoats better (i.e. primer actually sticks to it).

Just like anything else, it is personal preference.  Using any of these products is better than doing nothing.

-Scott

[daytonalo]

I view all that stuff as a short cut !!!!!!! Do it once , do it right or don't do it at all !!!!!!!

SODA BLAST -SANDBLAST
EPOXY PRIME
PAINT .............
ANY QUESTIONS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[resq302]

I have tried a lot of the POR-15 products varying from the POR-15, exhaust manifold coating, and other products.  The marine clean works really well I have found.  The self etching metal ready is ok, does not work well on certain metals.  I have used various POR products on my undercarriage, interior floor, exhaust manifolds, seat belt buckles, etc.  The trunk floor and undercarriage was on a Jeep CJ7 body that I had blasted.  Perfectly clean metal - peeled in a month over the whole vehicle.  Exhaust manifolds were also sand blasted, that too peeled off in small flakes.  The seat belt buckles have held up so far but if they hit metal to metal, they chip.  Now all of the forementioned products were used with marine clean and metal ready prior to the last coat being put on.  POR15 claims that their stuff can hold up to a hammer.  Then why did my seat belt buckles chip?  I live close enough away and work right down the street from their office so I brought the latest project in which was the seat belt buckles to them.... they had no clue why it did that and they even first hand observed how easily the seat belt buckles chipped in their shop.

[400/6/PAC]

My 
I like por 15
But don't get lazy and think the product is a mirecul cure for rust.
I have had great results with por 15 but I took every step I could to remove the rust first.
good luck

[Silver R/T]

Rust mort still needs to be topcoated just like por15.

True but even the top coat of the POR 15 still peeled for me.

you have to make sure you scuff it very well before applying topcoat