News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

brakes still stink after bleediing, help

Started by charger01, May 06, 2007, 07:45:28 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

charger01

I have an entire new 4 wheel drum brake system on my 69 charger.  Finally got it running, and bled the brakes all out with a manual pump bleeder system.  I went through 3 quarts of brake fluid bleeding them out.   Thought surely that would get all the air out of them.  Pedal still goes to the floor.  any ideas?

70charger_boy

I had the same problem with my 75 trans am.  Then someone told me to buy a motive 250 bleeder unit from summit.  This thing is amazing!!!!!

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MVP%2D0250&N=700+115&autoview=sku

What you do is take off your master cylinder cap and apply the cap that comes with the bleeder unit.  Tighten down the j bolts and pump 10 psi into the system.  Also, you add 3 quarts of fluid in jug. You dont need another person to help you after you pressurize the brake system just make a bottle of soapy water solution and apply to all your lines and you'll find you're leak.  If you have no leaks then just open each bleeder valve and its that easy

charger01

that was the exact item I used to bleed mine.  It worked real well, but still my brakes suck.  My lines are all new with no leaks.  cant figure it out, unless i somehow got air back in the master cylinder when I was done bleeding.????

70charger_boy

The only other thing I can think of other than having a bad master cylinder is maybe you have some water in your brake fluid?

Just 6T9 CHGR

Did you bench bleed the master before installing?   If not this is a must.

Start there, bolt it back up & bleed from RR to LR to RF to LF
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


mikepmcs

Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Plumcrazy

Are you sure all the brake shoes are adjusted out properly?

I'd also have someone help me bleed the brakes.   Have them pump the pedal two or three times, then open each bleeder screw and see what you get out.  Keep doing that at each wheel until you get a solid stream of fluid.

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

70charger_boy

Check the adjustment of the brakes.  Make sure you have a slight drag on all 4.  Also, did you bench bleed the master?  If you did all that then it sounds like you need a master, but I would bleed the living hell out of them.  It took me 5 hours to bleed my T/A

charger01

I checked the brakes again real quick.  the front wheels spin like the big wheel on the price is right.  assuming i need to adjust the shoes out.  how much resistance should i give em?

70charger_boy

Just tight enough until you hear the brake shoes rub and feel a slight drag.  Adjust them with the brake drum on and use a screwdriver or brake spoon

Plumcrazy

Quote from: charger01 on May 08, 2007, 12:19:52 AM
I checked the brakes again real quick.  the front wheels spin like the big wheel on the price is right.  assuming i need to adjust the shoes out.  how much resistance should i give em?

Adjust the front ones out until you can just start to hear them touching the front drums as you spin them.

The rear ones may be little harder to do, adjust them so that you feel just a little drag as you slide them on and off.

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

charger01

Thank you for your help gentlemen.  I will try it this weekend.  Is there a certain way to tell which direction to turn the star key?

70charger_boy

What I do to find the direction is to take off the drum and mark the shoe with a marker turn the star key one way and see which way the drum is going