can't melt the tires with my 69-383. Wassup???

[Rack]

I'm being somewhat tongue in cheek.  I'd be a liar if I said I've never tried to make a little tire smoke, or that I get a big grin when the car leaves a couple of Charger tracks on the pavement.  But still, I have spent a lot of money and time over the years trying to make my cars not be able to spin the tires.

You spent money so you wouldn't be able to smoke the tires? You know... all you had to do was, ummm... not give it too much gas.


j/k Ghoste.

[Ghoste]

I tried that but man, you just cannot believe how ugly those Ford and Chevy taillights are until you see them. 

[CB]

fixed the brakes and burn rubber when applying the brakes but not the way it should.
front tires dont hold it

[Paul G]

You see it's like this. Your out on cruise night and people are lined up on the streets and sidewalks. Your in a muscle car, people are giving you the circular hand motion to spin the tires. Your in a muscle car! You should be able to light them up, even if it's only for a few feet due to safety reasons or whatever. It is more for the show than anything else. If the car will only do a little squeak you might as well not even try.  Now if you can make them tires scream. You got something. Thats what people want to see a muscle car do. You don't have to get crazy with it. It's kinda like the intro to the Bull Run series on Spike TV where  Mikes 68 lights em up. It looks awesome. Thats what you expect a muscle car to do. It's just a show of power. No speed involved. All power.

[CB]

You see it's like this. Your out on cruise night and people are lined up on the streets and sidewalks. Your in a muscle car, people are giving you the circular hand motion to spin the tires. Your in a muscle car! You should be able to light them up, even if it's only for a few feet due to safety reasons or whatever. It is more for the show than anything else. If the car will only do a little squeak you might as well not even try.  Now if you can make them tires scream. You got something. Thats what people want to see a muscle car do. You don't have to get crazy with it. It's kinda like the intro to the Bull Run series on Spike TV where  Mikes 68 lights em up. It looks awesome. Thats what you expect a muscle car to do. It's just a show of power. No speed involved. All power.

amen to that! 

[Big Lebowski]

You have a broken motor mount. I'm 110% sure.

[Mean 318]

You can burn rubber with a broken motor mount... trust me

[Nacho-RT74]

I never have tried to smoke tires with my 400 4bbls... how do you do ? press brake pedal slightly enough to block front brakes and then just open throtles ?

[1970440RT]

CB,

     Make sure you have enough initial timing.  A proper timing curve will change the off idle response like night and day.

[CB]

Big Lebowski , sorry bro but she got 4 new mounts, the trorque side is the reinforced mount they put on it.

1970440RT if that would do the trick, I 'll buy you a beer

[CB]

and yes, Nacho, as you said, block the front and with enough torque you spin the back tires by opening throttle
... if you got good brakes

[Harlow]

CB, I agree that you should mess around with your initial timing. I have to run 22* initial.

[Big Lebowski]

CB, I agree that you should mess around with your initial timing. I have to run 22* initial.

   Well, if it's not the motor mounts, then I'd go with a timing problem. A good running 383 should be able to do a power brake a burnout untill the tires pop. I did it once. 

[my73charger]

Definitely your gears. 

[1970440RT]

Nacho,

     Easiest way to do burn out:

Stab the throttle to pick up the front end, then quickly press the brake pedal about half way.  As you are coming down on the brake, mash the gas pedal.  The front end of the car should nose dive, consequently unloading the rear end and allowing the rear tires to spin.  If your are going to do an extended burn out, go to 2nd gear and roll out of it when done to save your tranny.

WATCH YOUR RPM's!!!!!!

[1970440RT]

CB,

     Your initial timing needs to be around 18 deg.  If your total timing is 36 deg now ( where it should be ) and your initial is below 10 deg., you need to shorten the advance curve.  It needs to be around 18 at idle and 36 total.  If you have a new Mopar performance electronic distributor, the curve is adjustable inside the distributor.  My MP distributor when new was factory set at its longest curve position, which when set correctly for total timing, was way low at idle ( about 6 deg ) and caused me overheating and off idle performance issues.

[CB]

CB,

     Your initial timing needs to be around 18 deg.  If your total timing is 36 deg now ( where it should be ) and your initial is below 10 deg., you need to shorten the advance curve.  It needs to be around 18 at idle and 36 total.  If you have a new Mopar performance electronic distributor, the curve is adjustable inside the distributor.  My MP distributor when new was factory set at its longest curve position, which when set correctly for total timing, was way low at idle ( about 6 deg ) and caused me overheating and off idle performance issues.

this is all new to me, only thing I know it is a stock distributor.
looks like I need this:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DCC%2D3690427&N=700+400172+300992+115&autoview=sku

[Big Lebowski]

There ya go. Always keep a stock dist. in the trunk, but up front you need a (pick a brand) MSD Ignition. From fatter plug wires, more spark, they deliver way more power. 

[Nacho-RT74]

thanks!!! dunno If I would try. I have known the BIG burn outs are made with kinda switch or device to only block the front brakes and keep free rears, right ? So then with regular brakes can be made with little more care.

and yes I have good brakes, everything almost "new", rebuilt or refreshed.

[1970440RT]

Nacho, the "device " you speak of is a Line Lock.  It is not necessary to do a burn out.  If your brakes are good and proportioned correctly, it shouldn't be any problem.

CB, if your distributor is original, then the plates are not adjustable.  There are slots in the plates that can be welded up to shorten the curve.  This is hit or miss and you may be better off getting the electronic ignition kit.  This kit also has an advantage that the breaker-points are eliminated.

[T16]

Got the same "problem".. Got a 383, Crower 271 cam, Holley DC intake..

unfortunately a stock 400 converter.. open 2.76 rearend. So guess this combo is "holding back" my 383.. right?
This winter I´ll be looking for at least a 3.23 rearend and try to find me another torque converter

[gordo1968charger]

You see it's like this. Your out on cruise night and people are lined up on the streets and sidewalks. Your in a muscle car, people are giving you the circular hand motion to spin the tires. Your in a muscle car! You should be able to light them up, even if it's only for a few feet due to safety reasons or whatever. It is more for the show than anything else. If the car will only do a little squeak you might as well not even try.  Now if you can make them tires scream. You got something. Thats what people want to see a muscle car do. You don't have to get crazy with it. It's kinda like the intro to the Bull Run series on Spike TV where  Mikes 68 lights em up. It looks awesome. Thats what you expect a muscle car to do. It's just a show of power. No speed involved. All power.

i totally agree

[Todd Wilson]

Two words for the underpowered, Neutral Drop.

Explosion risk? Sure, but in the quest of tire smoke...........

My buddy had a 4 door Chevy Impala that he used to do that too. It would smoke em pretty good. One nite a decision was made to go in reverse hit neutral/floor it and then forward. ABout 3 times of that and the drive shaft went clunk clunk clunk under the car. We had ripped the pinion gear and stuff clear out of the rear end housing. But it smoked em like a top fuel car!       


Todd