Setting Pre-Load lifter question

[HDCharger]

While setting the pre-load I noticed that after I set each one that there was some slack if I pressed on the pushrod end of the rocker arm.  I am assuming this is the pushrod depressing in the lifter.  However, on 2 or three lifters there was no slack and I couldn't depress it at all.  I double checked to make sure cam was on base circle and got the same results on the same lifters.  Is there something wrong with those lifters?  I've been trying to solve a diesel sounding engine problem.

451
72 400 block 230 Casting (Got lucky it was in the car when I bought it
Steel 3.75" stroke 440 Crank with mains turned to 400 size
LY Rods
Ross Forged Pistons, flat with valve reliefs
Performer RPM
MSD 6AL and Billet Distributor
Hollley 830dp with annular boosters
Hughes Prepped Edelbrock Heads
Comp Pro-magnum Rockers
March Serpentine Pulleys
Hughes 3038 Cam INT .515" EXH .536" INT .549"    EXH .572"   230 °  238 °  276 °  286 °
Matching Hughes Valve Springs and Anti pump up Lifters
TTI 1 7/8 Headers and 2.5 Exhaust
PTC 3000 Stall Converter
3.55 SG

[firefighter3931]

Dave, the lifters are pumped up and won't bleed down. You may have to disassemble them to bleed out the oil. 



Ron

[HDCharger]

Ron, is it ok to set pre-load with the lifters pumped up or do I need to dissemble and pull those lifters and bleed them? 

[jg68]

Depending on were you have the pre-load set, on the anti-pump-ups or pro-magnums i like to set them closer to 0 preload, like no more then an 1/8 turn, then lock em down, they may make slight noise like a solid, but thats fine.
I've always had problems with the stock type lifters & higher agressive cam profiles with higher spring pressures, they would never hold up after a few 6000+ rpm shifts, they would stay pumped up & get messed up & start clattering, i would pull the VCs & find a multitude of spungy lifters .

Sounds like you did your homework & have a nice thought-out combo with the GOOD lifters, just set a closer to 0 pre-load & see if that helps, i know i could leave my engine sit for a week with the anti-pump-ups at full lift & isky 8005A double springs, they would never bleed down, them suckers acted like a soild

[firefighter3931]

Ron, is it ok to set pre-load with the lifters pumped up or do I need to dissemble and pull those lifters and bleed them? 

Dave,

Try resetting them and see if they quiet down. Like JG68 said, those style lifters can be a little noisy.....almost sound like a "tight lash" solid lifter. Maybe try setting them at zero lash and start there.....if they're still noisy then 1/4 turn and see what happens. 


Ron

[HDCharger]

I'm going to give it a shot tonight and see what happens.  I have nothing better to do on a friday anyhow.  Thanks

[oldkimmer]

If it still sounds like a diesel the sound u are hearing are the forged pistons rattling in the block......kim....

[HDCharger]

Thats what I'm afraid of, its not as bad as it was its just annoying as crap.  Can you safely run it like that?

[Challenger340]

You'd be surprised how far loose Pistons will go, sometimes forever that way.
however,
Why are the Pistons so loose in the bores ?

ROSS cam & barrel design 2618 alloy Pistons are a fine piece, no need to fit them any more than .005" clrc., even for mild Nitrous shots.
They should not be noisy if fit correctly in a 451.

[HDCharger]

Cajun Dyno in Alexandria, LA did the block and pistons in 2001.  Been messing with it ever since trying to get it going right.  Haven't had alot of time to dedicate to it with deployments to Iraq and all.  I'm about ready to pull the whole thing out and take it to R & R in Huntsville, AL and get it done right.  I've probably got 8-10 grand in that thing and its probably ran less than 3 hours total since they first did the work.  Its beed a long story but the lesson learned to all is take your motor to a Mopar specialist and not just any Chebby/Ford machine shop.  Mopars are different.  Cajun Dyno had a reputation for building Chebby/Fords for dirt track around LA but didn't do many Mopars.

[jg68]

Cajun Dyno in Alexandria, LA did the block and pistons in 2001.  Been messing with it ever since trying to get it going right.  Haven't had alot of time to dedicate to it with deployments to Iraq and all.  I'm about ready to pull the whole thing out and take it to R & R in Huntsville, AL and get it done right.  I've probably got 8-10 grand in that thing and its probably ran less than 3 hours total since they first did the work.  Its beed a long story but the lesson learned to all is take your motor to a Mopar specialist and not just any Chebby/Ford machine shop.  Mopars are different.  Cajun Dyno had a reputation for building Chebby/Fords for dirt track around LA but didn't do many Mopars.

That was your problem right there, "dirt track" builders  , they always set there engines up loose, i had it happen on a 360, they set the KBs up at "get this" .011  , DO YA THINK IT MADE NOISE LOL , i've had chevy guys build my mopars & did a wonderful job, NEVER again will i use a dirt track shop, i run the other way, my last build was done by a speed shop that did them ALL, primarily chevy, because as we know, thats the norm, for every 1 mopar engine being built, theres 20 chevys, this shop assembled my short & did an outstanding job, ran the fastess out of all my other mopar engines & its still together too this day, 3 yrs. & over 200 passes, plus he assembled the short block for 125.00 & degreed in the cam, so you don't necessarally need a mopar ONLY shop, just pay attention to whats going on & ask alot of questions, if they don't want to answer them, go elsewhere

[HDCharger]

Well here is the update:  I got me a push rod checking tool and needed 8.450" push rods instead of the standard length 8.55" push rods.  Easiest thing I've ever done.  I don't know why i didn't do that to begin with.  Anyway, when I was turning the engine over setting the pre-load I noticed a knock coming from underneath the Car.  I crawl under the car and take the dust cover off the torque converter and turn the engine over and low and behold thats it, 2 of the bolts are loose and tapping the block.  This crossed my mind a few times but I foolishly said to myself "naw, can't be I tightened those and put thread locker on them".  I put blue thread locker on them "again", torqued them and she fired to life without that nastsy tapping sound.   Still sounds like an old singer sewing machine under the valve covers but nothing like before.  Lesson learned is I guess you never take anything for granted. Boy do I feel like a dummy.

[jg68]

Glad to hear thats all it was, sounds like your ready to rock & roll

[firefighter3931]

Good detective work ! 



Ron