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Engine dies out at stop lights

Started by chargermick, September 05, 2005, 04:38:07 PM

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chargermick

I've been driving the Charger all summer with no problems,last week it starts dieing out at almost every stoplight .Evey time it dies, I step on the gas once, turn key, and it starts right up.  I had the eng. rebuilt and tuned on a dyno over the winter. Before installing the engine I installed new fuel tank, sending unit, and fuel lines. Carb is an Edelbrock 750 new last summer. It seems like it's fuel starving,so I just installed a Holley fuel pump and pressure regulator, and it is still the same. Fuel lines are all away from any heat source, press. reg. is set at 6 pounds, fires up great every time. After driving for 10-15 minutes it starts dieing out again. Any ideas?

golden73


chargermick

I sprayed carb cleaner all over looking for vac. leaks, didn't find any. Tightened all carb and manifold bolts and that didn't help either. It's really odd that it ran fine all summer, I haven't changed or adjusted anything, and it starts dieing out at lights? Anyone else have any ideas?

Chryco Psycho


Plumcrazy

How does it run at highway speeds?

If it runs okay a pump that can move enough fuel to drive at highway speeds should have no problem at idle.
Possibly you have some dirt in the idle circuits of the carb.

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

charger72

my 318 was doing that for awhile. I switched out the points to a electronic ignition and also found a bad plug wire on the dist. cap. you might check thw wires.

chargermick

It runs fine at high speed, it already has a MP electronic dist. Chryco- I pulled the fuel pump push rod out, it looks fine, doesn't appear to be woen. Both ends are pretty much squared off (as apposed to rounded off). Should I be measuring it's total length?

Chryco Psycho

no each end has a shoulder & should be exactly the same length though

chargermick

As long as I have it out of the car maybe I should just replace it. Is this still available at Dodge? I would have thought that this is a part that would have been replaced when the engine was rebuilt, maybe not.

Chryco Psycho

they are still available through Mopar perf , they are rarely changed or even checked when rebuilding , if they are short the fuel pump will not cycle fully & can starve the engine at idle , I fixed a friends car that had this problem for years this summer & numerous other people had never found the problem

bullitt68dodgecharger

similar prob on 360 and loses its prime after 4-5 hrs

HOTROD

What the Hell-Dumass !

1969chargerrtse

I had that.  Sometimes my gauges would peg to the right also.  I found the cable from the battery to the firewall point was disconnecting inside the cable head.  So basically the car was intermittently running straight off the alternator.  So when I was at a light at idle and touched the brake, the rear lamps would drain everything and stall the car.  I'm sure that's not your case, but I had that.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

twodko

Easy fix...........ignore stop signs! :lol:
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

69CoronetRT

Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on November 24, 2010, 09:21:15 PM
I had that. ...So basically the car was intermittently running straight off the alternator.  So when I was at a light at idle and touched the brake, the rear lamps would drain everything and stall the car.  

I had something similar. I chased fuel/carb problems all summer. My problem looked like the OP's. What was happening was when I was in gear at idle at a stop sign, the RPMs would drop down far enough that the electronic ignition was getting less than 12v and shutting off. It was worse at night due to the draw from the lights.
.
So to the original poster....do you have an electronic ignition? Maybe it's not fuel related at all. Maybe it's electronic. Put a meter on the ignition and duplicate the same situation as a stop sign in your driveway. Turn on all the electrics and see what happens.
Seeking information on '69 St. Louis plant VINs, SPDs and VONs. Buld sheets and tag pictures appreciated. Over 3,000 on file thanks to people like you.

68charger383

1968 Charger 383(Sold)
2003 Dodge Viper SRT-10

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on November 26, 2010, 12:53:25 AM
Talking about OOOOOLD THREADS, LOL
:icon_smile_blackeye:
Oh my, I just noticed that.  Should be fixed by now.  Probably not even a member anymore.  :hah:
bullitt68dodgecharger drew us into this?  Newbie.  :slap:
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

chargermick

Wow, this is from a long time ago! I don't post very often, but I still come and lurk almost every day. Problem ended up being dirt in the gas tank. New gas tank and no more problems. I've said it before and I'll say it again, this IS the best site on the web!

warpspeed

I have problems with the colder weather with my 340 four barrel.  I have to close the TA scoop and turn up the idle mixture screw during the winter.  The engine runs great until it has run long enough to warm up.  I think my 340 just doesn't like the cold, but then my 440 four barrel, wants more cold air.  Go figure.