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trunk floor?

Started by 1BAD68, February 10, 2007, 12:18:09 PM

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1BAD68

I'm wondering if I can get just the center pan for my trunk without buying the two piece set?

terrible one


As far as I know, no one makes just the center section of the trunk. But no one says you have to use it all! I would say go ahead and get a repro pan and cut out what you need (maybe even weld the two pieces together and do some cutting to make a single patch panel that you can use) or get a section from an original (probably harder and more expensive anyways)

motorhead

That pan in the picture doesnt look terrible .The after market pan isn't as thick as the original.           

1BAD68

its very solid but has some pinholes and a rough surface, the rest of the pan is almost like new. I'm not sure what to do with it.

Charger-Bodie

i kinda depends on how solid it is after it gets sand blated but if you are good with metal you could either make the small patches it needs or buy one side and just cut the patches you need from it
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

is_it_EVER_done?

The aftermarket pan is thin, and not a very high quality of steel. Even if it was equivalent to a stock pan in quality/thickness, they are a real pain to replace.

Your pan looks as though you should not mess with it other than to sand blast and patch or if you don't have a sand blaster, Navel jelly or even a twisted wire brush on an angle motor should get you to good metal. A good rust converter should then be applied.

To remove the roughness, you could just use a thin coat of body filler, but it won't really be waterproof and since it's impossible to keep water out of a Charger trunk, I use JB weld troweled on/off with a razor blade as it's ultra durable and waterproof, plus it will fill the rough areas and fill most of the pin holes as good as welding would. If you do the JB weld rout, make sure you trowel it off to a near finished state while it's wet as it sure is hard to sand down after it dries! Do it in small areas.

When you paint. Apply several coats to the trunk floor and make sure the previous coat is dry and curred before applying the next. That's about the best you can do to protect the trunk floor IMHO.


bill440rt

If you're worried about filler being waterproof, you could use fiberglass filler instead (the smooth, non-strand type). You can thin the filler out further with fiberglass resin. It'll spread nicer & dry smoother for less sanding, as it's a bitch to sand.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce