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question

Started by jordyjim, February 05, 2007, 12:56:16 AM

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jordyjim

how much are you guys paying for a good quality 2pack, its about £125 gallon ($250) here in the uk thts to the trade. just curious?..jim

hemi-hampton

What all consist of a 2 Pack? Base, Clear, Hardener, Reducer? LEON.

jordyjim

2pack is a base plus hardener, or a ready mixed plus hardener..jim

bill440rt

Jim,
Still not sure if you're talking about primer, basecoat, clearcoat, etc...

PPG's DBU is a catalyized basecoat. Expensive stuff, I think the gallon of sublime I got was almost $200 alone. But, it mixes 1 part base to 1-1/2 parts reducer. so, 1 gallon of base gave me 2-1/2 gallons of sprayable material!! And, it covered awesome!

I used Evercoat's Uro-build primer as a high-build filler primer on my '69. It was a low-cost alternative to some of the higher priced primers. It filled & sanded great, I'd say it was the same thing as DuPont's Uro-Prime, at half the cost. It was under $100 for a gallon of primer & the hardener that went with it. Evercoat is a good, trusted brand, so I was confident in using it.

For clears, stick with the SAME manufacturer as the base you're using. Don't put PPG clear over DuPont base. If any lifting or peeling occurs down the road, you're screwed. The paint manufacturer won't warranty the paint, it's your dime. The higher end PPG clears over here are about $150-$200 a gallon, depending on which one you choose.

The paint companies' lower lines of paint (PPG/Omni & DuPont/Nason) are a lower cost alternative. I DON'T recommend them for show cars. I used Omni on some less visible parts & PPG base/clear on others. The difference in quality is highly noticable, but I used it in low-visibility areas.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

jordyjim

 ithink i get what you mean,ithink the trouble here is we use different  manufacturers and we over here use a different lingo , i use alot of acrylic based paint 2parts paint to 1 part hardener 10 percent reducer, our bases are polyester based ,we 50_50 the base and reducer no hardener. the lacquer is the same mix as the acrylic, ithink the cost is about the same over here, yes i use afiller primer too you can really build it up and covers minor scratches if ime using a base i wetsand with 1500 gets it really smooth, cos you know how base can shrink back especially silvers, i tend to steer clear of cheap paint, you really do get what you pay for.  are we starting to understand each other, by the way     if that was your sublime green charger pics it looks mint, did you flat and polish or have you kept the full gloss look...jim

bill440rt

Yes, Jim! That's my current project, the Sublime '69 Charger. And yes, I plan on color sanding & buffing it. The top surfaces really need nothing, they are very flat. There is a little orange peel on the sides, I could leave it alone if I wanted. But, I tend to like the "flat as glass" look.
I usually sand with 1000 then one quick pass with a buffer. I then sand with 2000 & follow with 3000, then the final buff. The 3000 really cuts down on your buffing time, it looks 10 miles deep.

In the US, paint gets mixed according to the manufacturer's instructions. Some are 1:1, 2:1, 2:1:1, 4:1:1, etc. It all depends on what you're using. I only mentioned DuPont & PPG because, in my opinion, they are the top brands.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

jordyjim

and then a really good coat of wax to protect, whatever you do dont scratch it please when your dropping the engine back in. i use farecla g3 coumpound for buffing what about you? its well used over here i  use the foam mop rather than lambs wool, i no dupont paint ive used the centari 600 and tinted binder its very good,but mainly ici paints never heard of ppg? after buffing try a cut and shine polish low abrasive getsall the little bits we sometimes miss, its silicone based mind you,dont do it in the bodyshop,the painter wont talk to you for a month afterwards...jim

hemi-hampton

JORDYJIM, I'd assume you guys use Sikkens paint over there dont you? Is that a popular Paint over your way? Or No? How about Glasurit, Similar to Sikkens, Both Euripean paints I beleive? LEON


P.S. Keep any & all Silicone base products away from me especially Armor-All. :icon_smile_dead:

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: hemi-hampton on February 08, 2007, 08:12:44 PM
JORDYJIM, I'd assume you guys use Sikkens paint over there dont you? Is that a popular Paint over your way? Or No? How about Glasurit, Similar to Sikkens, Both Euripean paints I beleive? LEON


P.S. Keep any & all Silicone base products away from me especially Armor-All. :icon_smile_dead:

not to interupt but we use sikkens auto base plus at my shop and is far superior to anything else ive used and autoclearIII IS A REALLY GREAT PRODUCT
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

jordyjim

yes we have sikkens here, its very good im not using at present, all depends who yr supplier is, my pet hates are, flash dash,bumper black, wd40 release oil, especialy when they spray it in thir door locks, i always get around it, but man it dosnt half twist my melon..jim