Help with engine pulling

[golden73]

I have everything unbolted so the engine and tranny should come right out. The motor mounts are being a little difficult. Is it necessary for the engine mount bolts to come out? It looks like the mounts are slotted, so hypethetically it should just pull right on out. I have been trying to take those bolts out, but that has been unsuccessful. I was able to get them partially out. Is there any trick to getting them out? The cherry picker is just lifting the whole car up, instead of just the engine. Any help would be greatly appriciated.

[Steve P.]

If you've pulled your cross member, motor mount bolts, linkage and exhaust you should be able to pick it right on out. You'll need to lift the front end to make enough room to pull the motor/tranny combo..

If you are lifting the engine and the front wheels are coming off the ground,  (STOP),,, set it back down and go over all your bolts..   You'll get it....

[golden73]

What do you mean by cross member? The K frame?

The exhaust and linkage are off, and the tranny is unbolted from the tailshaft.

The motor mount bolts aren't coming out. I have been hitting the back with a hammer and prying the front, but they only go so far. I dont want the ends of the bolts to mushroom, so if you have any suggestions/tips that would be great.

The front end is on jack stands, so we have enough room for the tranny to come out with the motor.

I dont see any other bolts holding it on...

[Steve P.]

The cross member is what holds the rear of the tranny in place. You will have to slightly jack up the tranny to pull the bolts and remove the cross member. The tranny mount is mounted to the cross member and will have to be unbolted also..

Drive shaft should be removed from the tranny.. You will lose tranny fluid from the tail shaft if you haven't drained or pulled the tranny pan.. I like to put a rag into (2) large freezer bags and slip the bags over the tail of the tranny. Then I use a large ZIP tie to make a decent seal.. It's not perfect but it saves on the oil all over everywhere.. Keep the floor dry handy..

The motor mount bolts that go to the K-frame mount MUST come out..

Make sure your exhaust is not still connected...

[golden73]

I have a cross member out, but I am not sure if it is the one you speak of. On the body there is a cross member that goes from side to side, and then there is the cross member that can be unbolted in the middle. That is the one I have unbolted. There is also one that is right behind that, which covers up the end of the tailshaft/beginning of driveshaft.

Can the engine/tranny come out if I unbolt the tailshaft from the tranny?

The tranny fluid has already been drained

Exhaust is off.

Looks like I just have to keep on trying to knock those motor mount bolts off. Should I put a nut on the end so it doesn't mushroom?

Thanks a lot for the quick responses Steve, its much appricated

[cudaken]

 Am I reading this right, the engine is still bolted to the Car?

Give me a break, you must mean something driffrent RIGHT!

If by chanes you really mean the motor mounts, first stop and get someone to do it for you. You have no clue.

If you must, do not mess with the bolts that hook the mont's to the block. There is a metal frame on your K-frame that mounts are bolted to. From under the car you will see a bolt head, on my 69 driver side is toward the firewall. Firewall is what seprates you from the engine. Passager's side bolt head is toward the grill thing that hold's your headlights, you know the things that light up the road at night. They are 5/8's on my 69 Charger.

Onces again I must have miss read this post or you meant something driffrent than the Motor Mount. If it was the Motor mount, well what do you think, it hold the engine still in the car when running. So did you really think you could leave them hooked up?

OH, one other thing, when working on your back it is easy to get confused as to which way unbolting is. Just double check you are turing the right way. I never had a problem with busting them losses.

Sorry for sounding like a dick.

                             Cuda Ken

PS, wrap a garabage bag around the tail shaft, there will sill be some in there and makes a mess.

[golden73]

You are right cuda ken, you do sound like a dick.

I am not retarded here, I majored it automotive technology in college. I am in the mechanical field today. I know what I am talking about. I know what a grill is, I know what a firewall is. So if you are just gonna keep on posting like a dick, when I am trying to get some advice here, dont even bother posting in this thread.

The part I am confused about, is why are there slots on the front and back of the motor mount? I knew the bolts had to come out, but looking at the mount made me a little confused, as to how it actually held it in place.

Can someone answer me if the tranny/motor will come out, if I just had the tailshaft unbolted?

[8WHEELER]

Let me ask you if you have the 4-5in long bolts out of the motor mount ''one on each
side'' that goes through the motor mount on one side then the K-Frame back to the other
side of the motor mount??  The bolts that hold the mounts the the block only don't
need to be removed to pull the engine out, it will just need to come strait up 1in first
then can be moved around. I have had only one other thing that acted like this and it
was the cable strap on the drivers side motor mount.

This is the way 2nd gens are I have never worked on a 3rd gen yet.

Dan

[moparguy01]

first answer what type motor mount you have. since your name is golden 73, then im going to guess its a 73 charger, since your on a charger site. if this is the case, it will have spool type mounts, not sandwhich type.

in spool type you need to unbolt the mount from where it sits in the kframe, and remove it completely. it just makes it that much easier. youll have to take some weight off the engine to pull the bolt out. then make sure all your trans bolts are out if the trans is staying in the car, i couldnt quite tell in your post, as myself like ken didnt quite understand exactly what your talking about. so im guessing here. the spool type mounts have 2 ears, that are U shaped, and the bolt goes through that. get a big ass pry bar, and try popping on side out while you have some pressure on the engine.

if the trans is coming with it, jack the trans up, remove the bolt from the rear trans mount, then with no pressure on the crossmember from the tranny (trust me on this, it hurts, and when the trans falls on your finger, at times it makes you lose a fingernail.....) then there should be 2 bolts on each side to remove.

if you have much more trouble than this, it might be time for you to try finding a factory service manual for it.

also, just cause someone went to school for something doesnt mean they know how to do it. i went to college with a bunch of guys for auto. restoration, and i wouldnt let them near my car with a wrench. i'd have a 20 foot pole pushing them away. not saying this is the case here, but just saying.

[Beer]

Pictures are worth a thousand words, got any? It may help troubleshoot your problems.

I pulled the motor out on my 73 last fall.
With the hood off, radiator out, we then removed the tranny from underneath the car. We marked all the wires before removing them, and we removed pretty much everything that would come off the Long Block before pulling (Per the last picture).

The engine comes out very easily (Smallblock) with everything disconnected.

Here is a pic of what my engine mounts look like



Loosen the long bolt (really no reason to remove it) and push the washers/head/nut out on both sides to clear the "Ears" (for a lack of a mo technical term...) and the motor lifts right out. Here is a shot of the long bolt (the rusty one in the new motor mount I have yet to wire brush...)



Hope this helps...I would suggest removing the tranny instead of trying to pull it as one unit. Likely when you are pulling the transmission you will discover what you are hanging up on.



Cheers
Beer

[golden73]

It is a 73 charger with a 360 in it.

By looking at the motor mount, it really didnt make much sense to pull the whole bolt out, since the mount is slotted on both sides (see beers pic)

I guess there is something on the tranny I missed.

Its just a matter of time, but I will get this thing out.

[Steve P.]

Sorry G. I just remembered you were doing this.. Did you get it out yet?? If so great. If not IM me your phone number and I'll call you.. I can walk you through it better and faster than I can type...

[golden73]

I snapped some pics, I will see if I can get them uploaded.

The only question I have, is how do you disconnect the driveshaft from the tailshaft of the tranny?

[cudaken]

 Golden 73. I have a couple thing's to say.

1 I am sorry I made you mad. But with you being in the mechanical field you should know (do I need to unbolt the motor mount) well take it from there if you where me. There was a reason I keept saying "is this what you mean"!

2 On the site, you never know who or the age of the poster. In fact not the country either. That is why I stated the remarks in the fashion I did. You could be 14 and have a charger or a skilled person that never worked on a Mopar in there life. Heck a friend and now fellow Charger owner in Holland had to ask me what headers and a trunk was? That is why I posted in that fashion, never know what the other person know's. My 68 Road Runner radio is now playing toon's in Chris's 68 Charger. He learned fast!  

3 I know alot about B-bodys, but never wrenched on a 73 B-body. Newest Mopar (not counting the 91 Daytona) has been the 70 383 Cuda. All the Charger's I have owned or worked on where 68-70 and more than one. From that stand point I should have keept my Keybaord shut.

Like I said, sorry I sounded like a dick. On a 69 the lower bolt need to come all the way out. As a whole you find I try to be very help full. In this case I stuck my Keyboard in my mouth.

                                           Cuda Ken, sorry again.

[golden73]

Don't worry about it Ken, sorry I kinda blew up at you, but after spending 3 hours getting everything unbolted that wasn't what I wanted to hear. So needless to say, I had a short temper. On the 73's, you don't have to take the bolt all the way out, you just have to take the nut off the back and have it loosened. No hard feelings I hope

[cudaken]

 I have no problem at all. Just want you know I am not a Big Dick with a Nose. First time I pulled a 69 Charger grill, I would have been in the same mood as you! Nasty, hot, drity and pissed! You would not believe where they hide all the bolts and one's you cannot find is covered with undercoating! Boy I was PO'ed when I got home!

Did you get the 360 out yet?

You said the drive shaft is still hooked up. Leave the front yoke in the tail shaft but drop the shaft it self. strap the Yoke to the trans and cover the tail shaft with a bag. Will help some what with the fluid draining out the tail shaft.

I remeber this day like it was yesterday. I was torn between becoming a body man or a wrench. I was laying on the floor pulling the 727 out of my 1968 Road Runner (still have after 33 years) and took a Dextron bath! That when I knew I was becoming a bodyman by trade. I can blow off dust, try blowing Dextron out of your hair.

                             Cuda Ken Hope To Be Your Friend

[golden73]

Ok, I got some pics here...

As you can see, the motor mount bolts have been loosened, but there is no need for them to come off, since the mount is slotted.

Also, the rear cross member was taken off, but the driveshaft is still connected. How does the drive shaft come off? The bolts do not have a hex head, so I can't take them off with a ratchet. The tranny   is able to move up and down via floor jack, so there arent any other bolts holding it in place.

Can I leave the tailshaft hooked up to the driveshaft, and then be able to take the engine/tranny out? Or does it have to come out as one piece?

[golden73]

More pics...

[Steve P.]

You need to be able to get under the back of the car to the rear end of the driveshaft. It is bolted to the pinion with 4 bolts. 3/8ths or 7/16ths, I can't remember.. (I haven't pulled a 3rd gen. appart in about 18 years).. Anyway, once you take those bolts out the driveshaft will pretty much fall on the ground. Don't let it! Remove it with care and put tape around the 4 u-joint caps to act as a keeper.. Then just slide the shaft toward the back of the car. It is NOT bolted into the tranny.. It just slides in and out on a splined shaft..

After you remove the driveshaft from the tranny, bag the end of the tranny to catch the fluid. Also bag the shinny end of the the shaft to keep it from rusting up..


Good luck JIM, this tape will self distruck in 5 seconds..........

[golden73]

Thanks Steve, but I got the engine out yesterday.

Took a while to actually get it out of my car, because the load leveler was a pos.

I'll post some pics of it out later tonight hopefully

[derailed]

Just curious, what was holding it up?

[golden73]

I had to get the driveshaft out, but even with that off the car was still lifting up when I was pulling out the engine. I guess the mount was stuck in there pretty good. All I had to do was push down on the car and then the engine came free.