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ignition troubles

Started by trev-68, November 01, 2006, 05:09:57 PM

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trev-68

hi all, wonder if anyone has had the same problem before, my charger will start and run, if i hold the key in the start position, when i let it go back to the run position it cuts out!
my engine side wiring harness was new a year ago, the ignition switch is brand new, i am getting voltage at the terminal that goes on the ballast resistor on the run side,[left side as you look at it]  ballast resistor measures 1-2 ohms resistance, i have checked for continuety from the multiplug on the back of the switch to the wires on the ballast resistor, all ok, could it be a bad relay?? what am i over looking thanks for any help, trev.  ???  

DKM69

I've had the same problem and have found it to be the voltage regulator.  I'm running the mopar constant voltage regulator (+ new harness, new ignition switch, new powermaster alternator, etc.), and every once in a while this happens. I unhook the regulator, start it, shut it off and hook the regulator back up and all is well again. :flame:  I have the full mopar electronic ignition set-up, and hope that once I get this all installed it will cure this intermitent pain in the #%*.

Nacho-RT74

Ignition switch on RUN position:
-Blue wire at ballast ( also regulator blue wire ) 12  Volts. If you have upgrade to electronic regulator and ignition module, the same 12 Volts at blue wire up alt brush, and Ignition Module.
-Brown wire at ballast ( also + lead of coil ) more less 8-10 volts.

On Start position voltages readings are inverted.

But for the kind of fail, it looks you are not getting juice at RUN position up to ballast ( and the rest of the line ) on blue wire. It could be ignition switch damaged or some broken/loosen on blue line.

Another posibility. Ballast resistor damaged.

I Know you say you checked that, but that's the only stuff to check as far I know.

If starter motor is cranking then relay is fine.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

trev-68

thanks guys will check it out later today, at least now i have a list to follow with readings, i do have a new ballast resistor, so i will swap it over, i'll bet its a busted wire dash side i'll keep you posted thanks trev 

resq302

Trev,

I had that same problem happen to me.  My dad told me it was the ballast resistor as they were prone to just crapping out like that.  When I was growing up, my parents had a lot of mopars and dad always used to keep a spare ballast resistor inside the glove box since they would go bad that fast.  I guess that is why I keep a spare inside my car now also.

Brian
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

trev-68

hi all, swapped ballast resistor for new one, still the same, disconnected regulator started up holding key, reconnected reg, still the same, getting 12 volts at run side of balast resistor, 10 at other side, got to be a juice problem is there any safeway to bypass the wiring????

Nacho-RT74

Electronic ignition or breaker point ?

You can feed the + lead of coil directly from batt, just for a while you check where is the problem.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

trev-68

hi again nacho, i have a mallory hyfire setup fitted.
well saturday morning, me and a good freind who has owned mopars for years, came over to help, we went through everything again, put a jumper wire in and it was still the same, >:(  we could not understand it, then we disconnected the mallory hyfire unit, and put the jump plug in so it was just on the distributor, and bingo! all is well again :icon_smile_big:
thanks again for the help,bye for now trev.