Which Power brake booster should I use?

[66mopar]

Guys I need some help. I have a 66 belvedere that I am converting to a dual master and disc brakes and a power booster. I know this is a charger site but I was hoping someone could help me. I need help with which booster to purchase. I noticed there are different boosters listed for power drum brakes & power disc brakes. My car came with manuel drums. I'm assuming the rod that connects to the pedal is difference. But which one should I use? 

Also I bought the distribution block (BLK243) from inline tube that converts the master from a single line to a dual line master. They said I could use this block and put a adjustable Proportioning valve in the line going to the rear. Is this right? Thanks for any help  66mopar

[COKE]

The pushrod is different,you will need the booster linkage from a power assisted car.
Also the firewall plate.

Regards.

[Steve P.]

Hey 66'.  Can you tell me/us why you are going to POWER disc brakes?? As very many people here will tell you, there is no need to add POWER ASSIST. Of course it's your choice. I just wonder if you want to go that way due to poor braking in the car now??  There is a huge difference from 4 drum to disc/drum. Tons of us have changed out the front drums for disc brakes up front. All you need is a NON-Power master to go with it and braking is like today's cars. Only no anti-stop. OOPS, I mean anti-lock... 

More info on your car would be great!! We don't only cater to Chargers here. Look to the left....

[66mopar]

I assumed that with the power brake booster the effort to stop the car would be greatly reduced compared to not having a brake booster.

[Steve P.]

It would be reduced. Not by a hell of allot!! Moreover you will also reduce the space in your engine compartment and add a few more pounds to it. All unnecessary in my opinion...

[Chatt69chgr]

I have three questions on this.  I have drums all the way around on my 69 Charger now.  I am going to convert to front disks---the usual route using the 73-76 A-body spindles and 11.75 inch disks.  Plan on using the pin calipers found on 70-74 e-bodys and rear mounting them to avoid sway bar interference.  What master does everyone use?  Do you have a part number.  I would like to stay with the 4-bolt master.  I know there are several available with bores of 1 inch, 1-1/16 inch, and 1-1/8 inch.  Also, which side do most have the hydraulic lines coming out of?  The engine side or the fender side?  Second, assuming the calipers are rear mounted, does anyone have a part number of the BEST hose to use to maintain the existing hydraulic line connection.  Both sides on my 69 exit thru the lower part of the fender behind the control arms on the frame rail.  Third, what about the proportioning valve.  My junkyard experience seems to show that most of the proportioning valves were brass up to about 71 or so.  After that, they seemed to go to the cast iron ones.  Does everyone just use the pieces from the junkyard.  Or is there one that can be purchased new.  I am aware of the new cast iron piece from MBM.  What about brass units like were originally supplied.  Oh, couple more things.  What about the rod from the back of the master to the brake pedal.  Is it the same on 4-speed cars and automatics?  And is there anything else needed in the hydraulic plumbing.  I keep reading about hold off valves used in the circuit between the proportioning valve located at the front of the car and the rear drum brakes.  Supposedly, with modern wheel cylinders having the cup expanders in them, this isn't needed anymore.   

[Steve P.]

This should help. http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-parts_list.html


2 things I will add.

1) You CAN use the later model J,M,R body spindles. It's a load of crap about them causing ANY trouble at all.

2) The pin style calipers are a bit lighter and work fine most of the time. I have had experience with them binding or deflecting in the past. You can tell when you have had this trouble as the pins will be out of round and sometimes hard to remove.  I prefer the slider type. No deflection. No rattle. No problems...