Some Electrical Wiring Questions - PIC's

[4402tuff4u]

Was wondering if someone could verify for me that I have wired the new Electronic Voltage regulator correctly. I took the original/stock black voltage regulator that looked like a 2" x 3" x 2" black box from the firewall, it had two wires leading to it. One was green and the other was actually two blue wires - one with a white line. The new electronic voltage regulator I got from Mancini came with a pig tail plug. I simply connected the green to green and the single blue on the pig tail to the double blue wires. Is this correct?

Second question: Is the the black and purple wire supposed to be connected to the alternator "Batt" terminal? I tried to follow the schematic on the shop manual, but it was not that clear. The "field" terminal is green and that's where I hooked up the green from the new harness - that was clear on the manual.

Third question: On the orange ignition box, does the orange box frame need to be grounded to the cars body? In other words does the orange box itself need to touch the engine compartment? I fabricated a bracket to mount the orange box tucked underneath the windshield washer reservoir, this bracket will be secured to the engine compartment with one stud for the single hole that exists in that location. The bracket will be also secured in place by the shape of it. One part of the bracket will be tucked under the washer bottle resting on the top section of the engine compartment. This will prevent the bracket from ever spinning. I isolated all the areas that will be in contact with the engine compartment with rubber padding/insulator for vibration and chaffing resistance. The bracket also allows plenty of airflow around the orange box unit for cooling purposes. I still have to weld the single stud in the backside of the bracket so that I can mount it to the engine compartment.

Thanks for the feedback.

[Plumcrazy]

The dark blue wire should be B+ when the key is on.   It goes to the voltage regulator and one of the field terminals on the alternator.
The green wire goes to the other field terminal, nowhere else.

The electronic ignition module needs to be grounded.

[4402tuff4u]

The dark blue wire should be B+ when the key is on.   It goes to the voltage regulator and one of the field terminals on the alternator.
The green wire goes to the other field terminal, nowhere else.

The electronic ignition module needs to be grounded.

Actually, the stud connected to the engine compartment will be grounding the bracket that the orange box is mounted on. So the orange box will be grounded afterall.

[Todd Wilson]

The orange box needs to be grounded.  I have had 2 different box's have grounding problems. My old truck would just die doing down the street and then take off again.  My 71 Charger kept having fits like that which ended up being a bad orange box but I suspect it had a weak ground that may have contributed it to burning up and having a short life.


Todd

[Chryco Psycho]

The dark blue wire should be B+ when the key is on.   It goes to the voltage regulator and one of the field terminals on the alternator.
The green wire goes to the other field terminal, nowhere else.

The electronic ignition module needs to be grounded.

if his alt has 2 field terminals which it doesn`t look like iut has so you need to change alts too

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Mike you need a dual field alternator to use the electronic reg

[4402tuff4u]

Mike you need a dual field alternator to use the electronic reg

I knew I needed to buy something else! It never fails! ..........I'm good at opening can of worms!

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Me too pal, me too

[squeakfinder]

Yep. I've got a nearly brand new single field alternator collecting dust also.

[Nacho-RT74]

Firts, sorry, I got your email but just checked today since I have been A LOT BUSY WITH LOTS OF JOB

Was wondering if someone could verify for me that I have wired the new Electronic Voltage regulator correctly. I took the original/stock black voltage regulator that looked like a 2" x 3" x 2" black box from the firewall, it had two wires leading to it. One was green and the other was actually two blue wires - one with a white line. The new electronic voltage regulator I got from Mancini came with a pig tail plug. I simply connected the green to green and the single blue on the pig tail to the double blue wires. Is this correct?

OK, green wire runs directly from regulator to one of the brushes on alt ( you need double field alt to use that regulator ), no splices anywhere, just a directly line. The double field alt controls the voltage with magnetic fields variations drived by negative pole ( ground ). The constant source is the blue wire arriving also to the other alt brush.  Regulator gets throught the blue line also constant 12 volts coming from ignition key, same as the rest of blue line on engine harness. The purpouse to regulator be feeded with 12 volts source is to know how much power are on line to increase or decrease the negative output what is the source to alt ( took by chassis ground on regulator ) and also increase or decrease the magnetic field on alt rotor.

The blue spliced wire with female terminal was used to feed the old mechanical regulator. You can keep hooked that regulator on that terminal. On old single field charging system the green wire drove positive, coming from the old regulator output  what regulate positive not negative. Negative to brush was took directly on alt chassis what has one non isolated and non wired brush.

Second question: Is the the black and purple wire supposed to be connected to the alternator "Batt" terminal? I tried to follow the schematic on the shop manual, but it was not that clear. The "field" terminal is green and that's where I hooked up the green from the new harness - that was clear on the manual.

heavy black wire yes.... is the only one. As far I know, purple wire is to water temp sender so you have something wrong on that.

Since you are using a double field electronic regulator you will need/have now, the green wire coming from regulator to brush ( regulated negative ), one blue wire coming from ignition key arriving to the other alt brush ( constant positive, and same blue line that feeds EVERYTHING on engine ) and the black wire to alt stud that arrives to ammeter on cluster ( spliced on underdash harness to feed everything on car ).

It looks you have the older engine harness kind, to complete the conversion to laters electronic charging system you will need to add a blue wire coming from anywhere on engine harness up to alt and of course get the right double field alternator.

Third question: On the orange ignition box, does the orange box frame need to be grounded to the cars body? In other words does the orange box itself need to touch the engine compartment? I fabricated a bracket to mount the orange box tucked underneath the windshield washer reservoir, this bracket will be secured to the engine compartment with one stud for the single hole that exists in that location. The bracket will be also secured in place by the shape of it. One part of the bracket will be tucked under the washer bottle resting on the top section of the engine compartment. This will prevent the bracket from ever spinning. I isolated all the areas that will be in contact with the engine compartment with rubber padding/insulator for vibration and chaffing resistance. The bracket also allows plenty of airflow around the orange box unit for cooling purposes. I still have to weld the single stud in the backside of the bracket so that I can mount it to the engine compartment.

Thanks for the feedback.

Yes, ignition box needs to be grounded. In fact one of the ways to test a good ignition box is check good ground on one of the pins, don't remember wich one but is one of the ones that feed the pick up coil on distribuitor. So we can say that THAT ground on chassis with box is the one that feeds indirectly the dist pick up coil.

[Nacho-RT74]

What I don't get is why you have a blue wire spliced with a brown wire on ballast resistor... both wires on that terminal should be brown ( the other single blue wire on ballast is fine ). One coming from ignition switch and the other one running up to positive terminal of coil.

A general view of that area will be fine to be sure. I think there is some plugs mixed. Maybe the single blue wire arriving to ballast should be really the regulator source and the double blue wire used on your new regulator should it be the ballast. If you keep it on that way will works without problem, but just talking about the right look and way to conect.

As stated the blue wire is the source to everything on engine ( ballast, regulator, choke, alt brush ) including Ignition box.

Still doubts about that blue and brown wires on female terminal...


PS: ABOUT THE SINGLE FIELD ALT... uses the same rotor, bearings, pulley and one of the brushes than the laters double field. In fact also the same front housing.  You can install a complete single field front assembly with rotor included on a back housing double field with diodes and stator alt without any kind of job, everything matches PERFECT.

In fact, an old single field stator can be used on a later alt just cutting the welded diodes on stator wires and installing eyebolts terminals to fit and bolt on laters diodes bank and rear housing. Condenser is also the same.

Just diodes, one of the brushes and isolator and rear housing are different between both

[4402tuff4u]

What I don't get is why you have a blue wire spliced with a brown wire on ballast resistor... both wires on that terminal should be brown ( the other single blue wire on ballast is fine ). One coming from ignition switch and the other one running up to positive terminal of coil.

A general view of that area will be fine to be sure. I think there is some plugs mixed. Maybe the single blue wire arriving to ballast should be really the regulator source and the double blue wire used on your new regulator should it be the ballast. If you keep it on that way will works without problem, but just talking about the right look and way to connect.

As stated the blue wire is the source to everything on engine ( ballast, regulator, choke, alt brush ) including Ignition box.

Still doubts about that blue and brown wires on female terminal...


PS: ABOUT THE SINGLE FIELD ALT... uses the same rotor, bearings, pulley and one of the brushes than the laters double field. In fact also the same front housing.  You can install a complete single field front assembly with rotor included on a back housing double field with diodes and stator alt without any kind of job, everything matches PERFECT.

In fact, an old single field stator can be used on a later alt just cutting the welded diodes on stator wires and installing eyebolts terminals to fit and bolt on laters diodes bank and rear housing. Condenser is also the same.

Just diodes, one of the brushes and isolator and rear housing are different between both

Nacho thanks for the good and clear "step by step" wiring explanation. What I did is purchased a new engine harness (middle plug) from YO. Should of been much easier if I would of used Evans set up, as described by members from the different posts I've read, oh well, I did not know about them at the time. Anyhow, what I did is simply installed the new harness and basically unplugged and plugged the wires as I laid the new harness and removed the old one. The black and purple wire shown on the picture came from factory crimped together and it ends precisely at the alternator. I know the purple is for the temp. but why is it next to the black at the alternator? That's where I got a bit lost with the original schematic and the new electronic voltage regulator. I'm going to follow your steps and the instructions provided by the electronic ignition I purchased. I'm also not going to hook up the battery until I trailer back the Charger back to the shop where the engine was built. The mechanic is going to "break in" the cam/engine for me. I'll let him double check my wiring.  Again, awesome explanation and thanks everyone for the feedback!! 

[Nacho-RT74]

yes I noticed the purple wire is crimped on alt stud terminal, but what I don't get is where it arrives.