Lakewood bellhousing z-bar problems??z-bar bracket location?

[javakmcharger68]

I am running into problems with getting my 1968 charger together. I originally started out with an automatic car, but started changing it over to a standard 4speed 833. Here's the numbers on mine:
360250 pressure plate
260853 clutch disc
440 throughout bearing

I had to get a bellhousing, so I went with the lakewood. I am wondering about the bracket for the z-bar on the frame location. If you have to do anything like cutting the z-bar or something. If someone has a lakewood that they put into there car at one point or another that could tell me the problems I will run into would be helpful.

I have no other car to look at for z-bar bracket location, so I find it frustrating to figure out. Plus, I had the z-bar to frame bracket made from directions I bought off of ebay, & it does not sit right anywhere I can find. Any help would be helpful. Thanks to all

[javakmcharger68]

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[javakmcharger68]

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[javakmcharger68]

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[javakmcharger68]

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[RallyeMike]

I just put a Lakewood Scattershield in my 72 Charger behind a B-motor. Even though my car is not the same year, and my scattershield is the part # for mounting an OD 833, I see the exact same problems.

I compared the Lakewood housing with a stock one I had and found they there are some differences. On the Lakewood piece, the ball stud mounted 1" further out. Also, the pivot point for the fork was about 1/2" further out from center line. Here's what I did:

1. I had to grind the body seam 3/8" on the sides of the tunnel to clear the scattershield.

2. I had to shorten the z-bar 1 inch.

3. The clutch fork was off center from stock, so I made a new pivot bracket out of angle steel to align it. It's not that far off, so it may work as is, but I wanted it right.

4. I used Hooker Super comp headers and had to grind 1/4" off the passenger side flange of the scattershield to clear them.

[RallyeMike]

.... dont' forget that Lakewood says you have to dial in their scattershields for center line ( a good practice on any bellhousing). Mine was off quite a bit. With offset dowels I brought to .007", which is within tolerance.

[Chryco Psycho]

the correct Z bar pivo9t bracket should lift the end of the z bar so ti is centered in the oval hole in the inner fender

[tecmopar]

What are the #'s/letters stamped on the Z-bar arms. The bracket should center the ball stud in the hole in the inner fenderwell. Your fork and/or fork bracket seem to be wrong, there are a few different ones to use. I've done more than a few of these and they are tight but I don't recall ever having to cut anythiing, good luck.

[javakmcharger68]

The bracket for the fork should not have to be cut smaller for mine, or it just would not work. The fork bracket is off of a 1971 aluminum bellhousing.  I will get some number off these pieces monday. Thanks for all the help guys