1970 Dodge Charger Question

[xx29440charger]

i have a 70 stock 383 charger.  car just shut off,  no power no crank the only thing that works is the buzzing sound when door is open 
battery is good     any advise?

[Wingnut426]

Check the white plug at the bottom of the steering column. The heavy black or red wire may have burned through. Very common. WINGNUT

[moparstuart]

also check the three large plugs that plug into the fuse block on the outer firewall  those are common to get water in them and fry .  I like to put dielectric grease on them all  . 

[Kern Dog]

also check the three large plugs that plug into the fuse block on the outer firewall  those are common to get water in them and fry .  I like to put dielectric grease on them all  . 

That isn't a fuse block. That is the bulkhead connector. The fuse block is under the dash , to the left of the glove box.

[Wingnut426]

Another common problem is the alternator gauge shorting out and burning through the wires. WINGNUT

[tcs69rt]

Your description is open to a lot of answers so....how about the fusible link or the starter relay?  

[LaOtto70Charger]

Do the lights turn on? Would indicate the power is coming from the battery for things other than the buzzer.

[xx29440charger]

the lights would not turn on.
it looks like the problem is fixed.
i replaced the coil ballest resistor and that seemed to do the trick
very scarry when the car just shuts off and died but a big releif to fire it up again!!!!!
thank you all for your help

[Kern Dog]

the lights would not turn on.
it looks like the problem is fixed.
i replaced the coil ballest resistor and that seemed to do the trick
very scarry when the car just shuts off and died but a big releif to fire it up again!!!!!
thank you all for your help

These symptoms are completely unrelated. The lights are separate from the ignition system. Your problem is not gone, it is hiding and will return.

[xx29440charger]

the car starts but the lights are not working   
any recommendations?

[XH29N0G]

Like KD says.  There is more to it.  What I read:  Change ballast resistor and car starts.  This is progress.  Lights don't work - something else.  When you originally wrote 'no crank' did that mean the starter wouldn't respond?  If so, I do not know what the ballast resistor did to change that because I am under the impression that they are two separate circuits.  The one to the starter solenoid goes through to the switch on one pin and the ones to the ignition & ballast go on another set of pins.  So if originally it would not crank, then there is more as well.  

If it were me, I would spend 30 minutes to an hour looking at the wiring diagrams  in the factory service manual tracing out where the wires go.  After that, I might use a multimeter to check continuity.

FWIW - I had a problem with a connection in this circuit.  In my case, I traced it to the white plug under the dash near the steering column that connects to the key switch.  I believe this plug was mentioned in one of the earlier posts.  In the process, I bought a spare key switch, which I could also use for trouble shooting and did use to start the car until I figured out what was going on with the white plug.  If I am reading the diagram correctly, that plug looks like it has pins for the start solenoid, accessories, ign 1, ign 2, a battery feed, buzzer, and instrument lamps.  

[b5blue]

Start with the connections at the high/low foot switch. Test for voltage there.

[472 R/T SE]

Back in the day...if a rig of mine didn't wanna turn the starter, my Dad told me to turn the lights on.  If they come on, its something to do with the starter/electrical.

Also, Id had a few Chebbys that I carried a hammer with me in case it didnt turn Id get under and beat on starter, lol.

I also had a '67 Coronet big block that was finicky every once in a while and I'd jump the little chrome regulator on the firewall to start it.
Ive also had several Mopars that the amp gauge would hit bottom and it would studder a bit but i always figured it stayed running since it was a 4 gear, lol.  I think all my 4 gears did that.

[b5blue]

No crank, first wiggle the shifter if auto. 

[xx29440charger]

car wont crank
no lights
when door is open  buzzer sound starts
when you take key out buzzer stops
when you put key in while door is open immediately after taking it out, no buzzer
takes a couple of minutes with key out for buzzer to go on when you put key in with door open

[472 R/T SE]

I agree with Mr. Kern.  Id start at bulkhead. 

"b5 blue" recommended a cleaner/protector that Id start with.
Remember, a lot of the power comes into the dash and flows through ammeter.

[xx29440charger]

when the door is open the buzzer sound goes on and when i hit the brake pedal the buzzer sound stops then when irelease the brake pedal the buzzer sound goes on...
no cranking no lights.....

[472 R/T SE]

If it were me, Id clean the bulkhead & check for corroded connections.  It needs to be done anyways.

If that doesn't work pull the steering wheel, turn signal switch and check the ignition switch.  Its not that hard.  Put a meter on hot side of switch and turn it over.

Im the "if it doesn't work, use a hammer" type so wiggle wires, smack column with rubber mallet, etc. 
So hard to diagnose over the internet, lol.

Im not some high $ tech/wrench.  Just offering up ideas.  Ive been there but it was never the ignition switch.

[XH29N0G]

I had an issue like this and went through the wiring in the FSM and used a multimeter to check continuity as well as if there was a potential (voltage signal) when appropriate.  The problem I had was with the plug for the key switch to the harness that is by the steering column.  Some of the pins in the plus were either pushed in so they didn't make a connection, or they were corroded. 

I do not have an answer to the brake/buzzer response or the buzzer working sometimes and not others and/or having a delay.  I wish I had more to suggest.  Keep us posted and we will keep thinking.