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Quick Temporary Trunk Repair w/ POR-15

Started by BrokenHero, February 24, 2021, 01:37:26 AM

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BrokenHero

Hey guys -

I'm trying to do a quick and simple repair job on my trunk.

I'm filling the holes with Por-15 Patch Filler and Seam Sealer, but also ordered POR-15 Power Mesh cut to size fiberglass sheets. Also have their rust repair kit coming on Monday. I might use a power mesh sheet over the line of holes that go horizontally across the middle.

If anyone has any tips for this process please let me know. I'll keep this thread updated in the event in goes well and other people want to try.

Also, if anyone can recommend a general brush on-rust stopping paint for the rest of the trunk floor, that would be great. I don't want to spray in there because it'll get everywhere. I'd like something that I can slap over the rusty, non-hole area rather than doing a lot of blasting and sanding.

I'll eventually have the trunk floor replaced but figured I'd do a little work to keep it from getting worse.

Thanks all!
Ted
1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

armor64

my experience with por15 showed me to not grind any of it clean to the steel. get off the scaley bits, and paint it on the rust. my buddies frame is still in good shape, but the section he ground smooth, the por15 flaked off after a year.

BrokenHero

1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

Dano 1

I too have seen POR flake right off smooth/new metal and be damn near indestructible on rough/scaly stuff. I would hit it with a wire brush in a drill or grinder to break up the loose stuff and then go forward with your plan, that'll buy you plenty of time to do the trunk pan 'right' eventually without it getting much worse.

When you do the fiberglass mat/mesh try not to shoot yourself in the foot when do you eventually go to cut the pan out by covering spot welds etc. You'll end up pulling your hair out trying to find and drill the spot welds buried under the layers of POR.
1969 Charger 383 2bbl, R4 red, White hat special project

BrokenHero

Gotcha, Thanks Dano! Appreciate the help.

Regarding the spot welds, if I'm planning on eventually replacing the whole trunk floor, do you think it would be fine to apply some fiberglass sheeting to that upper horizontal seam, the one that runs left to right a bit under the pipe that goes to the gas tank?


Also, apparently POR-15 recommends a top coat. Do you think I could use something like this? The por-15 top coat is pretty expensive and they say on their site you can use a top coat of your choice.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/protective-enamel

Thanks again!
Ted
1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

AKcharger

Ted
I think you plan is solid. If it was me I'd clean it up, apply your POR-15   (I use eastwood rust encapsulated myself) seal any pinholes with RTV sealant and do the whole floor in truck bed liner. The rough texture will hide the repair and will protect it till you do proper replacement

BrokenHero

Sounds good, thanks AK!
Yeah, I'm not too worried about this since it's just a stop gap until
It's fully replaced. But definitely worth coating it and stopping further disintegration.
1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

hemi-hampton

I prefer the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator myself :2thumbs: