68 Daily

[zacater]

What advice or suggestions do you guys have when building a reliable daily?
What have you guys done to your daily and how often do you keep it maintained?

Here's my list so far:

ac
electronic ignition
318
disc brakes around
power steering
power brakes
overdrive
Holley carb (seen more positives over EFI)

[jefferson]

Id never use mine as a daily.
As fun as they are to drive. Theres a reason these cars are no longer dailys and are now hobby cars driven time to time haha

Could never imagine driving my 68 daily. Not in todays modern traffic. No way

[Stringbender]

Love spirit of a guy doing a daily driver! My advice would be, do as much of the work YOURSELF as you can. My car is a P.O.S. compared to most on this site. That being said it's never let me down. Because I Know things are right. Not because I'm some great mechanic but because I care more than anyone I could pay to do do the work could. Small tool kit, an maybe a spare coil and ECU in the trunk, an you should be Good. I agree their not as much fun sitting in traffic, but so far my best day in anything else just can't compare period.

[70 sublime]

How far is a round trip every day ?

Maybe a good radio would be nice that could hook to a cell phone

Don't get stupid gears in the rear end cause you think you want to win every stop light race because you won't

And yes do as much work yourself as you can or learn how it is done so when the leaks and small noises start you will know what you are dealing with 

[XH29N0G]

We drove these cars regularly when young without hassle. Making sure it is tuned up will be critical.  My swap to electronic (MSD) meant that the car seems to catch and start almost right away.  It always caught with points, but seemed to crank a little more.  I would get a good battery and good battery cables (the first replacements I had were too light weight and heated up).  If I were daily driving, this also means I would be parking it in regular places and someone who wanted it might try to steal it.  They are really easy to break into and hotwire.  While anyone doing this will look for defeat devices, I would consider something.  If it were me, I would consider something that would let it run for about 10 - 15 seconds and then shut it down or even just make it miss a few cycles so it is in a limp mode.  That way it is starting but not running.  Don't know how I would do this, but I have some ideas by grounding the coil.  While discs are better, the  drum brakes will still work.  I would get decent tires. If you are replacing the power steering, I would go with a modified set up or something like borgeson from a place like bergman autocraft, the car will feel different.  I have not driven a charger without the HD suspension.  It may be that something there would also make it feel better.  Align the car to specs like the 2005 mustangs and make the interior comfortable. I do not know if there are better things in the way of wipers, defogger, etc... (make sure the tubes draining the cowl aren't plugged) and I would think things related to interior air circulation if not AC and heat would be good.  Good lug wrench (cross?) decent spare, and a spare set of tools and bulbs.  Swap the lights for brighter, back for LED? dash lights for LED? Make sure the cigarette lighter works and the glovebox door doesn't pop open when you hit bumps.  Good shocks (like bilsteins) will make a difference (like the borgeson box).  Check all freeze plugs and drive through the bugs as you work them out.  Sounds like a fun project.

 

[zacater]

OP HERE
I live in the mid west (Indianapolis) and my round trips consist of just going to the local grocery or picking up some food from a mom and pop shop. Now being raised by my grandmother and aunts,I didn't really grow up in a household of the typical Father figure willing to show me the ropes of working on cars and learning the ins and outs of an older vehicle. But being 23 I'm teaching myself from online videos and forums/reddits like these to ask and learn as much as I possibly can. I do have cousins and uncles I can get some basic knowledge from and even picked up building Charger models to study on along with magazines and articles online. Most definitely getting ac as it gets crazy humid in the summer, got a garage and a simple and easy Honda Civic to use as a main (for rainy days and days I know I'll be in a higher chance of traffic ) the Charger I will drive as much as I can but not everyday though once ready I will be tempted to do so because I mean ITS A 1968 CHARGER!!
Looking into HD Suspension though I do like the look of the DEATH PROOF Charger with the extended Spring Leaf shackles and the air jacker shocks on the rear but as much as I love it, prioritizing the mechanics and insides is a must. I'm most sure I'll have to work on the side of the road but it should be a simple fix compared to something modern that would need electrical updates and such. The tires I'm going with the common radial goods. The seats and radio not too concerned at the moment, seats I'm fine with being a little busted and used and no radio is fine with me as this beauty will give me enough music for the time being. It's an animal and living beast of its own. You could say I'm obsessed LOL

[RallyeMike]

Skip disc all around. You're fine with just the fronts. Otherwise a 318 with a carb and electronic ignition needs very little maintenance. Skip the OD and go with 2.94 gears. Keep it simple!

Otherwise, understand that older cars do not have good seals and rust preventive innovations. If you drive it in the rain, water will get inside the doors and quarters and sit in the window channels. That's just the way they were built. It WILL start/continue to rust.

[zacater]

Skip disc all around. You're fine with just the fronts. Otherwise a 318 with a carb and electronic ignition needs very little maintenance. Skip the OD and go with 2.94 gears. Keep it simple!

Otherwise, understand that older cars do not have good seals and rust preventive innovations. If you drive it in the rain, water will get inside the doors and quarters and sit in the window channels. That's just the way they were built. It WILL start/continue to rust.

The only reason I was looking into OD is bc once a year I take a road trip to Cali to see my cousins who are in the marines. And being a Charger I would LOVE to take it on a road trip. That being said I know it would cause some good wear and I understand that definitely. The OD I thought would keep up with modern interstate speeds and all disc brakes for modern traffic.

What you recommended would still be okay or should I go ahead with what i thought would help out?

Thanks and much appreciated for the response 🙏

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Welcome to the group.

Yes, we did drive these cars every day and they did just fine . My 71 never left me stranded on the road and to this day still hasn't. Yes, modern cars are safer and far more comfortable but nothing today has the styling, heart and soul of our older Chargers. They have what modern cars have had designed out of them- personality. I would add the newer 70 and up electronic voltage regulator and two wire field alternator. I would also do the fleet bypass modification around the bulk head connector pins in the ammeter circuit and replace the fuseable link with a more modern Maxi Fuse. I agree skip the O.D., that 2.94 rear mentioned would do just fine. Mine is a 2.76 rear with a 383 and it is an excellent highway cruiser. These cars when well maintained are very reliable. I wouldn't have a second though about them in every day use because at one time I did just that. it's just most of us don't want to beat these cars up anymore in everyday use because everyone that is lost is gone forever and can't be replaced.

[70 sublime]

My 69 Charger is a 383 with 2.94 in the rear end and just loves the open roads
My car is also 4 wheel drum brakes and get along just fine with it

So you are 23 and already have a 68 Charger ?

What kind of shape is it in and can you drive it now ?

[zacater]

Hi,

Welcome to the group.

Yes, we did drive these cars every day and they did just fine . My 71 never left me stranded on the road and to this day still hasn't. Yes, modern cars are safer and far more comfortable but nothing today has the styling, heart and soul of our older Chargers. They have what modern cars have had designed out of them- personality. I would add the newer 70 and up electronic voltage regulator and two wire field alternator. I would also do the fleet bypass modification around the bulk head connector pins in the ammeter circuit and replace the fuseable link with a more modern Maxi Fuse. I agree skip the O.D., that 2.94 rear mentioned would do just fine. Mine is a 2.76 rear with a 383 and it is an excellent highway cruiser. These cars when well maintained are very reliable. I wouldn't have a second though about them in every day use because at one time I did just that. it's just most of us don't want to beat these cars up anymore in everyday use because everyone that is lost is gone forever and can't be replaced.

Thank you. At first I thought being 23 and getting a Charger would give me flack but people have been super helpful and informative. Definitely understand that, you really want to keep these around and alive and not beaten around and driven like hell

[Mike DC]

Thoughts:  

-- Give up on driving a classic car in slippery winter weather.  The bodies didn't have the drainage designed into them and no amount of rustproofing/coatings will cover it.  Even modern cars are rusting from winter driving, just not as quickly as old cars did.  

Also, slippery weather is when people wreck cars.  You might be able to handle it but the roads are packed full of other idiots who cannot.   Body repair shops get slammed with work right after the first big ice/snow of the season.   If you like your classic car then keep it out of that pinball game.  


-- Muscle car gearing is stupid-low by modern standards.  Modern cars use overdrive gears AND tall axle gears.  Contrary to what this hobby says, normal highway cruising speed is not 60 or 65 mph.  If you cannot maintain 70-75 mph then you will hold up traffic.  

But the motor has to be set up for tall gearing.  A big cam & loose converter = the motor will not be happy with tall gears.  What you want is basically a truck motor.  Low revs, lotsa torque/midrange.  Don't worry about the top end so much.  Engine advice for drag racing is the opposite of this.  


-- A freshly restored car needs "debugging". Anyone who has dealt with old cars knows what I'm talking about.  You cannot hand-build a car (which is basically what a resto is) and expect everything to come together right on the first try.  Cars are way too complicated for that.
 

[zacater]

My 69 Charger is a 383 with 2.94 in the rear end and just loves the open roads
My car is also 4 wheel drum brakes and get along just fine with it

So you are 23 and already have a 68 Charger ?

What kind of shape is it in and can you drive it now ?

Yeah I've been saving up a ton of money from my job.
I don't do crazy college kid antics so I've been able to save and keep focused on getting my dream car while also working my dream job and climbing up their ranks.

I and a shop close to me OLD SCHOOL CLASSICS would find a project, fix it up and they  said they'd help me build it the way I want so right now that's the plan.
Though based on their reviews I'm still looking around just in case .
.
Still vetting and looking around as much as I can  at  shops far and close that can help but I keep hearing about how some shops have plastered bondo on top of rust and rot. Whatever shop I end up doing business with I plan on stopping by consistently and get updates as much as I can. Every time I stop by I'll most likely have me and someone inspect and make sure work is going as planned.

[70 sublime]

My 69 Charger is a 383 with 2.94 in the rear end and just loves the open roads
My car is also 4 wheel drum brakes and get along just fine with it

So you are 23 and already have a 68 Charger ?

What kind of shape is it in and can you drive it now ?

Yeah I've been saving up a ton of money from my job.
I don't do crazy college kid antics so I've been able to save and keep focused on getting my dream car while also working my dream job and climbing up their ranks.

I and a shop close to me OLD SCHOOL CLASSICS would find a project, fix it up and they  said they'd help me build it the way I want so right now that's the plan.
Though based on their reviews I'm still looking around just in case .
.
Still vetting and looking around as much as I can  at  shops far and close that can help but I keep hearing about how some shops have plastered bondo on top of rust and rot. Whatever shop I end up doing business with I plan on stopping by consistently and get updates as much as I can. Every time I stop by I'll most likely have me and someone inspect and make sure work is going as planned.

So your dream car is a 68 Charger but you don't have one yet ?

My very first Charger I bought was a 68 also but it turned out to be a rot box
My second Charger I ever bought was also a 68 and ended up using parts from both to get it on the road
Lots of learning from the first car and what to look for when I bought my second one ( over 35 years ago)
My first one I drove was a 318 also 

Good luck with your search but you will find out if it is a deal it will be sold the day it was posted so just be ready to go

[zacater]

My 69 Charger is a 383 with 2.94 in the rear end and just loves the open roads
My car is also 4 wheel drum brakes and get along just fine with it

So you are 23 and already have a 68 Charger ?

What kind of shape is it in and can you drive it now ?

Yeah I've been saving up a ton of money from my job.
I don't do crazy college kid antics so I've been able to save and keep focused on getting my dream car while also working my dream job and climbing up their ranks.

I and a shop close to me OLD SCHOOL CLASSICS would find a project, fix it up and they  said they'd help me build it the way I want so right now that's the plan.
Though based on their reviews I'm still looking around just in case .
.
Still vetting and looking around as much as I can  at  shops far and close that can help but I keep hearing about how some shops have plastered bondo on top of rust and rot. Whatever shop I end up doing business with I plan on stopping by consistently and get updates as much as I can. Every time I stop by I'll most likely have me and someone inspect and make sure work is going as planned.

So your dream car is a 68 Charger but you don't have one yet ?

My very first Charger I bought was a 68 also but it turned out to be a rot box
My second Charger I ever bought was also a 68 and ended up using parts from both to get it on the road
Lots of learning from the first car and what to look for when I bought my second one ( over 35 years ago)
My first one I drove was a 318 also 

Good luck with your search but you will find out if it is a deal it will be sold the day it was posted so just be ready to go

Haha correct
I'm building it all on preparation and sheets so once it's found im ready to go.
I'm taking it all in and bullet pointing everything I need.

[70 sublime]

Well just out of curiosity what do you think you will need to spend to get a Charger to start this dream build with ?

[stripedelete]

Don't trick out the engine.   Fuel back in the day wasn't the urine we have today.

[zacater]

Well just out of curiosity what do you think you will need to spend to get a Charger to start this dream build with ?

well from what I've seen, project cars tend to be around 8 to 30 depending on the work that's already been done. I've been looking at a project car that's still up for a week now that's priced at 20k that's had the body worked on. But that's based on what they show. An inspection of course would be needed to make sure that's the case. There are several others that have running projects listed and some with no engine. But most so far have work done to get rid of the rot and rust that was initially there. At the end of it all I'm looking at 50 - 70 after the restoration I'm intending to have done. Now that's also dependent on which shop or shops I end up working with. The better and more established of course will run me near 100k.  That's why I've been saving much as I can because no matter which shop and what I choose to have done I will need leftovers for upcoming work that I can do myself or be aware that there may be a day I would need to take it to a shop. They're rare and from another time. Patience and knowledge is critical.
Hope that helps show where I'm coming from.
I do appreciate you guys a ton for helping me out w this info btw 

[darbgnik]

Skip disc all around. You're fine with just the fronts. Otherwise a 318 with a carb and electronic ignition needs very little maintenance. Skip the OD and go with 2.94 gears. Keep it simple!

Otherwise, understand that older cars do not have good seals and rust preventive innovations. If you drive it in the rain, water will get inside the doors and quarters and sit in the window channels. That's just the way they were built. It WILL start/continue to rust.

The only reason I was looking into OD is bc once a year I take a road trip to Cali to see my cousins who are in the marines. And being a Charger I would LOVE to take it on a road trip. That being said I know it would cause some good wear and I understand that definitely. The OD I thought would keep up with modern interstate speeds and all disc brakes for modern traffic.

What you recommended would still be okay or should I go ahead with what i thought would help out?

Thanks and much appreciated for the response 🙏

What he said about just discs on the front. Your rear brakes don't provide much braking compared to the front. Rear discs also add complication for the parking brake, depending on which kit you get. Even with thousands of road course miles on my 15 Viper, the rear pads exhibit almost no wear compared to the fronts.

I remember reading an article with an engineer from one of the big 3 stating the main reason they went to rear discs on modern platforms was basically peer pressure. If one does rear discs, all have to follow suit.

[terrible one]

Ive been driving my 68 daily for the last 2-3 months/ 3500 miles or so. Im in a pretty rural location so aside from the highway other drivers are not nearly as much of a risk factor vs. commuting through Dallas, etc.

I did upgrade to manual discs for the front. Agree that rear discs offer probably 10% of the benefit as compared to upgrading the fronts, and enjoy the simplicity of the rear drums. Im using relatively steep gears (3.55s) and small tires (255/60R15) and Im at like 3500RPM going 70, not a big deal but an overdrive unit or 2.76s would be nice at times.

I also snagged a long red LED light bar from the deck lid of a late 2000s Cadillac DeVille, and mounted it at the base of the package tray at the bottom of the rear glass so that people can actually see when Im hitting the brakes/ slowing down in bright daylight. Its harder to notice those incandescent bulbs in direct sunlight, especially when weve all grown used to modern LED brake/ tail lights.

As expected, more than half the times I stop, someone wants to talk about the car, sometimes for 5 seconds and others for 15 minutes. I enjoy this but if Im in a time crunch it can be a mild inconvienance.

And I agree about the bugs and IMO they will never all be worked out for very long. Ive had the alternator stop charging a couple of times but it was easily remedied by cleaning the field terminals; just corroded from rainwater I think. Also had the clip that holds the wiper linkage to the motor come off while driving during rain. Drivers door linkage to the outside handle came loose one time, fuel gauge has been finicky as is the case for many, etc. 

[70 sublime]

Well your money numbers seem to be realistic so you should be good in that department
Now just don't find a girlfriend and end up buying a house in the next 5 years and you should be good to go 

[zacater]

Well your money numbers seem to be realistic so you should be good in that department
Now just don't find a girlfriend and end up buying a house in the next 5 years and you should be good to go 

I agree with you on that one lol

[zacater]

Thoughts:  

-- Give up on driving a classic car in slippery winter weather.  The bodies didn't have the drainage designed into them and no amount of rustproofing/coatings will cover it.  Even modern cars are rusting from winter driving, just not as quickly as old cars did.  

Also, slippery weather is when people wreck cars.  You might be able to handle it but the roads are packed full of other idiots who cannot.   Body repair shops get slammed with work right after the first big ice/snow of the season.   If you like your classic car then keep it out of that pinball game.  


-- Muscle car gearing is stupid-low by modern standards.  Modern cars use overdrive gears AND tall axle gears.  Contrary to what this hobby says, normal highway cruising speed is not 60 or 65 mph.  If you cannot maintain 70-75 mph then you will hold up traffic.  

But the motor has to be set up for tall gearing.  A big cam & loose converter = the motor will not be happy with tall gears.  What you want is basically a truck motor.  Low revs, lotsa torque/midrange.  Don't worry about the top end so much.  Engine advice for drag racing is the opposite of this.  


-- A freshly restored car needs "debugging". Anyone who has dealt with old cars knows what I'm talking about.  You cannot hand-build a car (which is basically what a resto is) and expect everything to come together right on the first try.  Cars are way too complicated for that.
 

Thank you 🙏
I have a basic car at the moment that will become secondary and my main during the winter season and rainy days.
And oh most definitely. I'm sure I'll get frustrated at first debugging and ticking around but it's apart of the time and growth of your vehicle. It'll help chill out my attention span and keep me focused on a job and out of trouble like the other kids my age get into . It's a relationship I'm looking forward to I just hope I don't turn into that kid from Christine

[zacater]

Skip disc all around. You're fine with just the fronts. Otherwise a 318 with a carb and electronic ignition needs very little maintenance. Skip the OD and go with 2.94 gears. Keep it simple!

Otherwise, understand that older cars do not have good seals and rust preventive innovations. If you drive it in the rain, water will get inside the doors and quarters and sit in the window channels. That's just the way they were built. It WILL start/continue to rust.

That being said, if I'm ever stuck in a rain shower, should I open up the doors, quarters and channels to clean and dry out ? I'm definitely getting weather stripping all around that is for sure haha 

[Bronzedodge]

Good replies above.  I'll agree you don't need 4 wheel discs.  Hell, you don't need drilled and slotted rotors unless you plan to autocross.  For a street car it just decreases swept area.   Spend that disc money on tubular upper A arms and align it to modern standards with 1" torsion bars.  I just made a 150 mile round trip over the weekend in mine.  65-70 on the highway w 3.55's and a 383 4 bbl/auto.

Do not neglect maintenance.  Get a repo owners manual (or original) and actually read it.  Maintenance back then was different - freshen your brake fluid every other year, flush your radiator, etc.  Beware crap repo parts !  This is getting to be a problem as less old stuff is in demand ( can't do anything about that ) and more is made overseas, poorly.  ( I complain to anyone above a parts counter droid, which can be hard to find )