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Radiator Question:

Started by john108, May 24, 2020, 11:53:05 PM

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comet_666

Just found the part # of the fan I have, its 46237. I swapped it in this afternoon and went for a drive around the neighborhood a few times, maybe 4 or 5 miles under 45 MPH. Its 73 degrees here today and when I pulled in the garage temp read 189 which is even hotter than usual. So now I am really stumped.

cdr

Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 04:26:32 PM
Just found the part # of the fan I have, its 46237. I swapped it in this afternoon and went for a drive around the neighborhood a few times, maybe 4 or 5 miles under 45 MPH. Its 73 degrees here today and when I pulled in the garage temp read 189 which is even hotter than usual. So now I am really stumped.

Drive it longer & see what it does.
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

justcruisin

There is no way that fan will pull less air than a clutch fan. What thermostat do you use. Under what conditions are you having a problem.

comet_666

I took a longer test drive, a normal route I take by the lake, it ran a few degrees hotter than normal as I was driving it , when I would stop at a light it would creep up 5 or 6 degrees, then go back down 3 or 4 degrees. Pulled into store parking lot at it was almost 190, sat a long light 197, drove home and it was 188 when i pulled in garage. Definately running hotter than it was. Difference I see are it sits about an inch further away from the radiator.
I'm actually shocked, I thought it was going to run 180 topps. It was only 70 when I was out driving too.

cdr

Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 07:55:42 PM
I took a longer test drive, a normal route I take by the lake, it ran a few degrees hotter than normal as I was driving it , when I would stop at a light it would creep up 5 or 6 degrees, then go back down 3 or 4 degrees. Pulled into store parking lot at it was almost 190, sat a long light 197, drove home and it was 188 when i pulled in garage. Definately running hotter than it was. Difference I see are it sits about an inch further away from the radiator.
I'm actually shocked, I thought it was going to run 180 topps. It was only 70 when I was out driving too.

I still say get the 1818 & hope
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

comet_666

I have quite alot (50ish) of bent fins on the radiator, I tried to open them up as best I could today, some right smack in the middle on the engine side are pretty crushed shut. I'm sure it doesn't help but not sure how much it is hurting it either.

comet_666

Quote from: justcruisin on June 02, 2020, 07:32:29 PM
There is no way that fan will pull less air than a clutch fan. What thermostat do you use. Under what conditions are you having a problem.
Not sure what thermostat I use TBH but when I brought it out of the garage this spring I let it idle in driveway to make sure it opened at 180, and it did and droped about 15 degrees.

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 08:10:12 PM
Quote from: justcruisin on June 02, 2020, 07:32:29 PM
There is no way that fan will pull less air than a clutch fan. What thermostat do you use. Under what conditions are you having a problem.
Not sure what thermostat I use TBH but when I brought it out of the garage this spring I let it idle in driveway to make sure it opened at 180, and it did and droped about 15 degrees.

If it is idling at 165 as stated, but 190 driving, you either have a collapsing hose at rpm, or a timing/ lean condition most likely.

comet_666

I should add once it got to 165 ish it rose back up to normal operating temp whch for that car cruising around is 180 - 185

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 09:19:29 PM
I should add once it got to 165 ish it rose back up to normal operating temp whch for that car cruising around is 180 - 185

In that case, remember that a "180" thermostat does not mean that the car runs at 180. That number's sole purpose is to identify the thermostats BEGINNING opening temperature, not running temperature. Stats are not an on-off switch. From that point it takes roughly 20 degrees additonal temperature to reach full open flow. So a 180 stock stat operating at 190-195 on a hot day is normal and acceptable. If you want it to run at 180, try a high flow 180 or a stock 160.

comet_666

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on June 03, 2020, 06:26:07 AM
Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 09:19:29 PM
I should add once it got to 165 ish it rose back up to normal operating temp whch for that car cruising around is 180 - 185

In that case, remember that a "180" thermostat does not mean that the car runs at 180. That number's sole purpose is to identify the thermostats BEGINNING opening temperature, not running temperature. Stats are not an on-off switch. From that point it takes roughly 20 degrees additonal temperature to reach full open flow. So a 180 stock stat operating at 190-195 on a hot day is normal and acceptable. If you want it to run at 180, try a high flow 180 or a stock 160.
I knew the part about opening slowly but not the rest. Maybe I should then look into a high flow?  I also noticed that my lower rad spring has moved away from the inlet to the motor and now resides almost into the radiator.

c00nhunterjoe

For a 10 dollar part and 20 minute job, it is worth it to see if there is a change or not. If there is no change and it is running hot at speeds over 25 mph, the fan is not the problem. If it runs at 180 to 185 at speed and gets hot at low speeds, airflow is the problem.

comet_666

Just ordered
Milodon 16406 - High-Flow 180 thermostat.
And your right, its def worth a shot.

green69rt

Quote from: comet_666 on June 03, 2020, 07:50:19 AM
Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on June 03, 2020, 06:26:07 AM
Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 09:19:29 PM
I should add once it got to 165 ish it rose back up to normal operating temp whch for that car cruising around is 180 - 185

In that case, remember that a "180" thermostat does not mean that the car runs at 180. That number's sole purpose is to identify the thermostats BEGINNING opening temperature, not running temperature. Stats are not an on-off switch. From that point it takes roughly 20 degrees additonal temperature to reach full open flow. So a 180 stock stat operating at 190-195 on a hot day is normal and acceptable. If you want it to run at 180, try a high flow 180 or a stock 160.
I knew the part about opening slowly but not the rest. Maybe I should then look into a high flow?  I also noticed that my lower rad spring has moved away from the inlet to the motor and now resides almost into the radiator.


Is there a vendor for that lower radiator hose spring??

comet_666

I have not found one, I think I may wind up a thin coat hanger and add it as a second spring.

green69rt

I found these but it looks like they need modification to make them work right.  What's the "AN" stuff mean?

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/hose-inner-support-springs

jlatessa

The lower radiator (anti-collapse?) spring is available
from one of the Muskrat suppliers.

Can't remember the name yet, old age!

Joe


c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: green69rt on June 03, 2020, 12:40:01 PM
I found these but it looks like they need modification to make them work right.  What's the "AN" stuff mean?

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/hose-inner-support-springs

AN stands for army navy, but it is basicly the size designation for hoses. -6 is basicly 3/8, -8 is 1/2 etc.

Mopar Nut

Quote from: comet_666 on June 03, 2020, 12:10:42 PM
I have not found one, I think I may wind up a thin coat hanger and add it as a second spring.

Make sure to use stainless steel, better yet buy a stainless steel spring.
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

jlatessa

Thanks B5, I would have remembered in a couple of days.....

Joe

b5blue


comet_666

I ordered that spring by the way just waiting on that and the thermostat before I dig into it, so thank you for posting that lol.
I took it out just now for a drive, its 70 and not humid here today. It took probably 3 miles at around 2000rpm or so before it even got to 180, drove around 178-183 the whole time. I hit a few lights climbs up to 185-186. So it seems like it is fine while driving but when it starts going up it does not seem to have the ability to go back down in temp. It if was 90 out it is worse.


comet_666

This weekend I swapped out the thermostat and coolant, replaced the lower rad hose spring and today I went for a drive.
its 68 and not humid, it ran cooler, hit a few lights an I think the most it went up to was 187, then when I was moving again it went back down to 183 by the time I pulled in the driveway. When I was up by the lake it was running at 177. I drove it for around 45 min or so, all cruising, no expressway.
Does that seem normal? I can see if I was stuck in traffic it would climb and climb and climb.