60 Dart Seneca 2dr.

[lloyd3]

Mike: Thank you as well. Always good to have yet another source of supply. Believe it or not, this tank cleaned up pretty respectably and won't be a problem to re-use. The real battle here seems to be an almost constant failure rate of every other system on the car that hasn't been attended to for most of it's extended existence.  Now the generator is making a racket that I suspect is the bearing. Initially, I was convinced that it was the water pump but we took the fan belt off and solved that question. In the end, we'll have had to replace almost every component to make this car viable. Sure hope your daughter is have better luck with her(your?) project.

[b5blue]

Get some "Caig Lab's De-Ox-It D-100" for all electrical connections, it works and is harmless to plastics.
https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-LABORATORIES-D100L-25C-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B0000YH6F8
I use this at home/work.cars/motorcycle everything and this one bottle has lasted 5 years.

[DAY CLONA]

In the end, we'll have had to replace almost every component to make this car viable. Sure hope your daughter is have better luck with her project.

Lloyd,

She's been kind of lucky, just  about everything works to some degree, but the vehicle sat for some 20+ years, I replaced all the ignition and charging components to at least know what I'm dealing with age wise on the components, The carb is toast (although we did get it running) the tank/sender is next on the list, currently collecting parts for the front power disc swap, I have an 8 3/4 E body rear for an upgrade over the antiquated brake and tapered axle set up currently in it, of course all new brake lines are a must, and new tires, new radiator, 4bbl swap, etc, etc, etc you know the drill, but I was blessed with it needing no body or paint (thank god!), she still wants to change the interior over to red though, just waiting for this pandemic and summer to break...

Mike 

[lloyd3]

Mike: The paint and trim-work on that car looks great.  We have a long way to go here to look that good.  Pandemic bonding at it's finest...I guess.

b5blue: I'll get some of that cleaner. There are lots of uses for it here.

[b5blue]

Put just a film on the metal contacts and "work it back and forth" a few times connecting. Have a wall outlet, extension cord or light bulb that is too grippy wanting to not slide, this fixes by cleaning and lube to protect. 

[lloyd3]

There was a tar-soaked felt material on top of the tank when we lowered it out from under the car. Before I could stop him, my son tore it off of of the tank and disposed of it. Does anybody here know what that material was and where we might be able to secure it?

[DAY CLONA]

There was a tar-soaked felt material on top of the tank when we lowered it out from under the car. Before I could stop him, my son tore it off of of the tank and disposed of it. Does anybody here know what that material was and where we might be able to secure it?

It was for vibration/insulation from steel to steel contact, the low dollar approach is some tar roofing paper (the thicker paper .080 thick), or buy a repro from assorted vendors

Detroit Muscle Technologies (DMT) makes a pad for approx $20 but I think their earliest application is 1962 B bodies, but I'm sure it would adapt, or call to see if they have your application, Jim is always working on new products


Mike

[b5blue]

Home Depot has sticky roof repair foil meant for sealing. (Much like DynaMat but cheaper.)

[lloyd3]

Mike: My son found the 1962 DMT Mopar version you mentioned online and ordered it. I'm sure it will adapt for our purposes.

b5blue:  the line to get into Home Depot yesterday was outrageous, so I didn't make it.  That sounds like it would of worked as well.  Thank you both for the input.

[b5blue]

  Now Walmart said 1 person per 1000 sq. ft. when full one out one in rules.

[lloyd3]

Tank is in and works good. The pad was perfect.

[b5blue]

Have you flushed the fuel lines?

[lloyd3]

Everything in the fuel system is now copacetic. He drove it around for a little bit and then we noticed some issues with the water pump, so he got to change that out yesterday.  He's getting quite the education of late.  It snowed today so no car work for the next few.

Mr. Musto: I can see what you mean about Vans Auto. They have some pretty obscure parts options. I'd never heard of them before this. Good suggestion.

[lloyd3]

Big day here today. We've evidently solved the fuel issues, and the carburetor issues, and the cooling issues for the time being. So, my 16-year old took it out for a spin (even tho it's still lockdown here and it's snowing).  This has been a long time coming. Anybody here remember what it's like to be 16 and to be separated from your car and maybe even your girl? Anyway...





and, his car wasn't the only old turkey on the road today.

[b5blue]

Sweet! 

[timmycharger]

Big day here today. We've evidently solved the fuel issues, and the carburetor issues, and the cooling issues for the time being. So, my 16-year old took it out for a spin (even tho it's still lockdown here and it's snowing).  This has been a long time coming. Anybody here remember what it's like to be 16 and to be separated from your car and maybe even your girl? Anyway...

Wow! love that interior shot!!

[lloyd3]

This darn slant six still runs warm. Boiled and rodded-out the stock radiator, replaced the water pump and replaced the thermostat but... still having fairly wild temperature swings.  What am I missing?

[b5blue]

My Cherokee had a rouge temp sender in the head. Found by using a laser pointing temp. gun. Gauge creeped up to way hot but gun showed all was fine.

[lloyd3]

While I don't have a lot of faith in the temperature gauge in this car, it is clearly getting warmer than the 180-degree thermostat should allow for. The (aftermarket) gauge is indicating a gradual increase to about 250 degrees Fahrenheit and it then starts to puke fluid.  If you run the heater it seems to behave better and for longer but still does eventually overheat. This is clearly the stock and original radiator and from experience, it should be more than adequate. I've never had a heating problem with a 6 before, ever, so this one doesn't make much sense to me. It's not running lean and I can see good flow though the radiator when the thermostat opens. The radiator cap is ancient and maybe it needs replaced as well but... these older system were never very high-pressure in my memory of them. About the only thing I can think to do now is go with a bigger radiator?  In the old days I'd just head over to the local boneyard and get a V-8 model unit but that's not so easy anymore.

[b5blue]

Bingo replace the cap! I don't let my cap age over 5 years. (Come on it's 3.99.  ) The 15.00 temp gun allows checking for blockage in cooling also. Consider flushing with a chelating agent like "Fleetguard Restore Plus".

[Bronzedodge]

Unsoldered a tank and rodded it?  How bad was it?  If that's all good, maybe a high flow thermostat.  Made a big difference on my 383.

[DAY CLONA]

While I don't have a lot of faith in the temperature gauge in this car, it is clearly getting warmer than the 180-degree thermostat should allow for. The (aftermarket) gauge is indicating a gradual increase to about 250 degrees Fahrenheit and it then starts to puke fluid.  If you run the heater it seems to behave better and for longer but still does eventually overheat. This is clearly the stock and original radiator and from experience, it should be more than adequate. I've never had a heating problem with a 6 before, ever, so this one doesn't make much sense to me. It's not running lean and I can see good flow though the radiator when the thermostat opens. The radiator cap is ancient and maybe it needs replaced as well but... these older system were never very high-pressure in my memory of them. About the only thing I can think to do now is go with a bigger radiator?  In the old days I'd just head over to the local boneyard and get a V-8 model unit but that's not so easy anymore.

I'll give you an "Old school/shade tree" mechanical suggestion, costs no money, you can use the old radiator cap or the new one, doesn't matter, try to have the water/antifreeze about 1" below the neck, put the cap on, but don't tighten it, back it off so that the tangs are holding it on, but it's loose not sealing, run/rev the motor up when warm/thermostats open, let the excessive fluid run out the neck and find the level it's happy running with the cap/neck venting to the atmosphere (if it does) then drive the car as you would have when it overheated before....if it does not puke/overheat, then it's time to look at a possible head gasket/cracked head/block?....does the coolant exhibit any bubbles? or an exhaust smell?


Mike

[lloyd3]

Mike:  No obvious bubbles or unusual smells, no oils or other contaminants either.  We'll pull the thermostat and leave it out for a while and replace the radiator cap.  What it does after that should identify what we're up against.

[lloyd3]

Pulled the thermostat, flushed the block completely, put everything back together added at new 13-lb cap and took it for a ride. Still running too-warm (~250).  I'm out of ideas now. Maybe a bigger radiator?

[Bronzedodge]

This darn slant six still runs warm. Boiled and rodded-out the stock radiator, replaced the water pump and replaced the thermostat but... still having fairly wild temperature swings.  What am I missing?

Did you remove the top tank and rod out the radiator?  How did it look inside?