Here is what $5000 buys you.

[CDN72SE]

Been waiting to follow you on a resto. 

[Kern Dog]

Frame rails are welded up. The factory just spot welded them but I welded the edges as well as plug welding where I cut the spot welds. I wish that I had someone around here that was a better welder than I. I'd love to know what exactly I am doing wrong. I had to switch settings and wire feed speeds multiple times to get the right weld quality. I would weld a bit, get the nice even crackle like bacon sizzling THEN it would change. I will end up grinding down the sloppy sections.
This is a common thing for me though. I try things that I am not totally familiar with and when I encounter problems, I don't know if it is the environment, the materials or my own technique that is to blame.

[Kern Dog]

In my red XP Charger, I welded in frame connectors made from 3x3 .120 wall steel. I added metal strips above the top to fill the gap to the floor pans for a cleaner look.

[Kern Dog]

I started installing 2x3 connectors in "Jigsaw". This car has factory undercoating and it was put on T H I C K. I'm not sure if I'll extend the sides of these up to the bottom of floors. THat was a cosmetic move for the red car since they are not actually welded to the floor pans

[ACUDANUT]

Kern Dog, I spotted a Rebel Flag. You racist devil. 

[Kern Dog]

Been waiting to follow you on a resto. 

Hey man, thanks!
I'm not ready to call this a restoration yet. A resurrection for sure but not yet a restoration.
I had the notion that before anything else is done, I should reinforce the foundation. First, the front structure was replaced due to collision damage. Next was the obligatory frame connectors. I wanted to add torque boxes as well since it adds very little weight and stiffens the unibody.

[Kern Dog]

I had some trouble with the weld quality but later I increased the argon/CO2 pressure from 15 to 20. The welds started to lay flatter with less spatter afterwards.

[Kern Dog]

I may end up opening that access hole a bit.

These are tucked up a little closer to the rails compared to the red car.

[Kern Dog]

I started mocking up the front torque box. 
This time I decided to install it full length from the torsion bar crossmember to the support bracket and from the rocker to the rail.
The back side is primed. The 3  5/16" Holes are drains. I may want to hog them out a bit though.

[orange383]

That's interesting that turning up the gas gave you better welds. I will have to try that myself as I'm also having issues with achieving consistently nice welds.

Sometimes the welds look great and then all of a sudden something changes and the welds look lumpy as if I've gone in too cold. It all comes good in the end once ground down though.

You're torque boxes are looking good but I wonder if the square holes should have rounded corners so they don't become a weak point?

Edit: Thinking about it the torque box won't flex at all anyway so ignore what I said.

[69 500]

when welding over head turn up heat and argon, gas is heavy and falls quickly,turn up gas for better shield

[Kern Dog]

Thank you. I am always willing to try different techniques on tasks that I don't know very well.
If you try to tell me how to frame a house, I'd tell you that I don't need the advice.....Welding? Yeah, I can certainly stand to learn a lot!

[Kern Dog]

Sorry that I have been away. I have posted almost 21 pages worth of updates in a thread at the 1970 Charger Registry site though.

Frame connectors and torque boxes have been done for quite awhile.

[Kern Dog]

Still some fine tuning to do, general cleanup on the welds, etc.

[Kern Dog]

I don't know the level that I want to be at with this car but I will admit that it will never be a "restoration" in terms of original condition or OEM standards. It will likely be a fun and decent performing street car. Solid chassis, good brakes and suspension, a 383 built to approximately the 383 Magnum level, maybe a little more.

This car originally had an 8 3/4" axle when new. The prior owner swapped in an 8 1/4" 2.71 gear axle to keep it movable. I pulled the 8 1/4 using my transmission jack.

[Kern Dog]

I got an 8 3/4" axle in the deal when I bought the car but it had no brakes. I pulled a set of 10" drums from an '86 Chrysler Fifth Avenue.
I cleaned the housing and axle shafts and sprayed the housing Rustoleum satin black. It dries slow but does lay down a nice finish.

[Kern Dog]

I put a '741 3.23 Sure Grip in the axle. I know that it is the least durable of the 3 common carriers but since this car will not be fitted with slicks and a 4 speed or subjected to drag racing every day, it will be fine.

[Kern Dog]

The axle had no brake lines. I got pissed with the shitty quality of the NAPA brake line flaring tools so I ordered a nice $200 unit from Eastwood along with 2 rolls of 3/16" brake line. They are due in tomorrow.
I have a new rear brake hose. The NAPA store couldn't get the Fifth Avenue 2.75 single piston front calipers that I wanted so...back to the junkyard. I may end up ordering new/rebuilt ones from Rock Auto later but I'm anxious to get this car to stop now. The parking brake is connected and working. The cable is adjusted so that midway through the foot pedal travel. the car will stay still.
The front brakes will be 12" aftermarket rotors, 2.75" single piston rear hung calipers. I am using the F-M-J-R body disc knuckles, the ones that everybody seems to like except Rick Ehrenberg and maybe a few others I'm unaware of. They are 3/8" taller than the popular 1973-76 A body knuckles but 2 lbs lighter and a LOT more common.
I know that this may look "Joe Dirt" to some but for me, this is the kind of stuff that I love to do: Building something fun with used parts that are still functional.

[darbgnik]

Awesome. Not being tied to correctness is pretty liberating.

And on the cheap is a fun game in itself.

[Kern Dog]

Thank you.
I know that these cars bring out some that scoff at junkyard type builds but I'm having fun with it.

[Highbanked Hauler]

Thank you.
I know that these cars bring out some that scoff at junkyard type builds but I'm having fun with it.

  Cool repair, keep digging at it. My welder will annoyingly fluctuate voltage sometimes during a weld so it might be your problem also.

I question those who  look down their noses  at any work that is not a 100K restoration ? After I got in the wreck with my 500 and put the stocker nose on it you wouldn't believe the crap that got thrown at it Carlisle but my feeling is hey I am driving it and your not, next insult .

[Kern Dog]

The brake line flaring tool from Eastwood is easily the BEST that I have ever seen. Those small clamp type flaring tools look like a finger painting hung next to the Mona Lisa. I made the rear lines from drum to the T block and put in the rear hose.
My goal for the lines wasn't to necessarily match the original shape but to fit and clear.

[Kern Dog]

I had considered the use of those camber spacers between the lower ball joint and the steering knuckle but I skipped it for now.

[Kern Dog]

The 12" rotors were from a friend. He had them on his '71 Challenger. I replaced the bearings and put in a new seal.

[Kern Dog]

I tried to buy rebuilt calipers but the NAPA store claimed that they couldn't get the ones I wanted.
I wanted OEM stuff for ease of replacement in the future. The 1976 Aspen/Volare models got a larger piston as compared to the Disc brake A bodies...2.75 vs 2.60. More piston area = more clamping force.
I bought a pair of calipers from a self serve junkyard...$44 with hoses and hardware.
Stuff cleans up nice with the wire wheel.