Going in for alignment and have a few questions.

[b5blue]

  After bunches of overhauls/upgrades and factory disk swap I'm thinking it's time for a "real alignment". I've DIYed alignment with the old school bubble tool and toe plates and have the # close with the car driving pretty good. I can't seem to get the steering wheel quite on center after toe adjust but I'm sure the shop can.
1- Others have said use 1993 Mustang spec. (Fox Platform) as a guide so I assume "As close to" should be fine.
2- I recall some suggesting tightening upper control arm higher than factory spec. to prevent shifting? (These have staggered offset bushings installed to increase castor.)
3- I've adjusted front ride height per FSM and like stock ride so that's all good (Newer HD T-Bars/springs.) but anyone add dead weight to allow for drivers weight during alignment?
Anything to advise or recommend is appreciated, the cars not been on a rack in about 8 years.

[c00nhunterjoe]

More modern machines may not have a 93 mustang in memory for specs so just tell them a 2000 gt mustang and get as close to that as you can. If it is a "good" shop, the alignment guy will talk to you and ask you what you want the specs to be. In this case, as much positive caster as evenly possible, negative .5 degrees of camber, and 1/8" toe in.

[Mike DC]

         
Not many people keep these cars' front ends adjusted to the real OEM stock ride height.  The t-bars sagged down a little in their first few years on the road.  Now most people are used to seeing them adjusted lower than they originally were, even on nice restored/driver cars that have been overhauled recently. 
   

[b5blue]

Thanks for the reply's guys! The shop did a good job on a 4 wheel align on my 92 Thunderbird and like the Charger along with lots of other older cars. I've run stock ride height for 23 years, it's good for stuff like speed bumps and deep road puddles for a daily.