seperating the inner and outer deck lid and Hood

[mopar4don]

Has anyone separated the inner and outer deck lid skins? I am thinking about doing this but can't find any good examples.

Same thing for the hood.

[green69rt]

Has anyone separated the inner and outer deck lid skins? I am thinking about doing this but can't find any good examples.

Same thing for the hood.

Just wondering, why?

[mopar4don]

Back lip needs attension

[Charger-Bodie]

I've done it. It's doable but you need to be very proactive  about getting the crown crack where it fits the cowl and fenders properly again.

[mopar4don]

Has anyone seen a thread showing how to take them apart to fix the rust?

[charger_fan_4ever]

Has anyone seen a thread showing how to take them apart to fix the rust?

Look up my resto thread. We dissected my 70 hood.

[mopar4don]

Has anyone seen a thread showing how to take them apart to fix the rust?

Look up my resto thread. We dissected my 70 hood.

Thanks charger_fan, I will look for it!

Just to clarify
I am working on a 69 Charger, and I have a couple of trunk lids and hoods, (each of them have issues) My thought was to separate the inner and outer skins, then fix the rust and put them back together. I am sure this has been done, but I cant find any good examples, on how to do it.
Any help is appreciated!

I am starting with the trunk lid. (Working from back to front welding all body panels on and getting the gaps right).
One thought I had with the trunk lid, was instead of bending the lip back, would be to grind through the edge all the way around (leaving the folded edge undisturbed) this would release the inner from the outer, then make the rust repairs. Then to put it back together I would have to weld all the way around, right on that edge. But I am worried about warping, and getting that original outer perimeter right!

[charger_fan_4ever]

Has anyone seen a thread showing how to take them apart to fix the rust?

Look up my resto thread. We dissected my 70 hood.

Thanks charger_fan, I will look for it!

Just to clarify
I am working on a 69 Charger, and I have a couple of trunk lids and hoods, (each of them have issues) My thought was to separate the inner and outer skins, then fix the rust and put them back together. I am sure this has been done, but I cant find any good examples, on how to do it.
Any help is appreciated!

I am starting with the trunk lid. (Working from back to front welding all body panels on and getting the gaps right).
One thought I had with the trunk lid, was instead of bending the lip back, would be to grind through the edge all the way around (leaving the folded edge undisturbed) this would release the inner from the outer, then make the rust repairs. Then to put it back together I would have to weld all the way around, right on that edge. But I am worried about warping, and getting that original outer perimeter right!

If its rusted the first spot that explodes is the lip. Are you saying the lip hasnt started to bubble? if it hasnt where are you seeing rust ? Im confused.

[DAY CLONA]

I've reskinned quite a few hoods/doors/trunk lids over the decades, not the most desirable of jobs to do, you'll need a fair amount cutting tools, electric/pneumatic, hand chisels for tight spots/ spot weld cutters,assorted spacers/putty knives to shim gaps while you cut and pry away the skins/braces, not to mention getting createtive to get to foam/bonding fillers with cut down hacksaw blades, or hot knives....but the bigger question I have is: why bother? 69 Charger, repro hoods and trunk lids are readily available if rust free straight sheetmetal is your goal, sell the used to someone that's willing to fudge with it...

[hemi-hampton]

I've reskinned quite a few hoods/doors/trunk lids over the decades, not the most desirable of jobs to do, you'll need a fair amount cutting tools, electric/pneumatic, hand chisels for tight spots/ spot weld cutters,assorted spacers/putty knives to shim gaps while you cut and pry away the skins/braces, not to mention getting createtive to get to foam/bonding fillers with cut down hacksaw blades, or hot knives....but the bigger question I have is: why bother? 69 Charger, repro hoods and trunk lids are readily available if rust free straight sheetmetal is your goal, sell the used to someone that's willing to fudge with it...

Why bother? If you read his post he don't want to buy anything new clean rustfree sheet metal. He wants to do it the most difficult way possible. I'm guessing when he's done he'll have 50,000 hours into remaking this car. which would add up to 5 million $$ if the work was done at a body shop. LEON.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,104414.0.html

[mopar4don]

Has anyone seen a thread showing how to take them apart to fix the rust?

Look up my resto thread. We dissected my 70 hood.

Thanks charger_fan, I will look for it!

Just to clarify
I am working on a 69 Charger, and I have a couple of trunk lids and hoods, (each of them have issues) My thought was to separate the inner and outer skins, then fix the rust and put them back together. I am sure this has been done, but I cant find any good examples, on how to do it.
Any help is appreciated!

I am starting with the trunk lid. (Working from back to front welding all body panels on and getting the gaps right).
One thought I had with the trunk lid, was instead of bending the lip back, would be to grind through the edge all the way around (leaving the folded edge undisturbed) this would release the inner from the outer, then make the rust repairs. Then to put it back together I would have to weld all the way around, right on that edge. But I am worried about warping, and getting that original outer perimeter right!

If its rusted the first spot that explodes is the lip. Are you saying the lip hasnt started to bubble? if it hasnt where are you seeing rust ? Im confused.

I actually have 3 trunk lids. Every one has problems. one may have dents, or rust on the back lip, or the inner skin has rust along the back lip edge.
My thought was to pick out the best one, tear it apart, fix the damage then put it back together. It's just that back lip area looks hard to do.
I may have to unfold it so it is flat (180 degrees)to get the 2 skins to separate
Not to mention unfolding the lip along the perimeter, then refolding it back down (it may get weak)

Anyway sorry if I am not explaining it very well, I just thought someone may have taken a trunk lid apart and repaired it.

[mopar4don]

I've reskinned quite a few hoods/doors/trunk lids over the decades, not the most desirable of jobs to do, you'll need a fair amount cutting tools, electric/pneumatic, hand chisels for tight spots/ spot weld cutters,assorted spacers/putty knives to shim gaps while you cut and pry away the skins/braces, not to mention getting createtive to get to foam/bonding fillers with cut down hacksaw blades, or hot knives....but the bigger question I have is: why bother? 69 Charger, repro hoods and trunk lids are readily available if rust free straight sheetmetal is your goal, sell the used to someone that's willing to fudge with it...

I hear what you are saying, but I look at it like I have all the tools to do it, Just not a lot of experience. And the trunks lids I have are not good enough, so what will it hurt to try? It's not costing me anything to try and fix it! If it all doesn't work I can always buy one from AMD.

[ODZKing]

My 73 deck lid which is rust free as it was a California car, the top skin has separated from the inner framework. Folks that travel behind me say it bounces around while driving.
I took it to a body guy to see if he could do something and his response was there is no way to get in there. I hate to replace the lid as it's perfect other than that.
Anyone had this issue? 

[mopar4don]

I've reskinned quite a few hoods/doors/trunk lids over the decades, not the most desirable of jobs to do, you'll need a fair amount cutting tools, electric/pneumatic, hand chisels for tight spots/ spot weld cutters,assorted spacers/putty knives to shim gaps while you cut and pry away the skins/braces, not to mention getting createtive to get to foam/bonding fillers with cut down hacksaw blades, or hot knives....but the bigger question I have is: why bother? 69 Charger, repro hoods and trunk lids are readily available if rust free straight sheetmetal is your goal, sell the used to someone that's willing to fudge with it...

Why bother? If you read his post he don't want to buy anything new clean rustfree sheet metal. He wants to do it the most difficult way possible. I'm guessing when he's done he'll have 50,000 hours into remaking this car. which would add up to 5 million $$ if the work was done at a body shop. LEON.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,104414.0.html

LEON, believe me it's not that I don't want to buy new metal, it's more like if I can fix it and save money then for me its a no brainer.
I also know that the "hard way" builds confidence to take on the next hard thing that comes along.            

And your right about the fact that I will have a LOT of hours into the car by the time I complete it.
But its my time and for right now, this is how I choose to spend it. And someday I WILL get it done! (LORD WILLING)

And as far as how much it would cost IF and IF I had a body shop working on it.....
a quick check of your math
50,000 x 100/hour = 5,000,000 that's 5 million
Yup your right again!

So if anyone is interested In the kind of person I am, I will refer you back to a post from almost 5 years ago

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,104414.50.html  post#59

[timmycharger]

Why bother? If you read his post he don't want to buy anything new clean rustfree sheet metal. He wants to do it the most difficult way possible. I'm guessing when he's done he'll have 50,000 hours into remaking this car. which would add up to 5 million $$ if the work was done at a body shop. LEON.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,104414.0.html


One of the best threads on here!

His time, His effort, our benefit and education, or at least mine! I've learned a ton from this build, keep up the great work Don!

[68 charger freak]

The hood shouldn't be a problem.  But The trunk is skinned like a door, as soon as you start attempting to unfold the skin it's going to bend the outer skin around the edges. It's not impossible to do but it's not a job for the inexperienced.

[mopar4don]

The hood shouldn't be a problem.  But The trunk is skinned like a door, as soon as you start attempting to unfold the skin it's going to bend the outer skin around the edges. It's not impossible to do but it's not a job for the inexperienced.

I know exactly what you are saying, (I took 3 sets of doors apart, and could not save any of the outer skins)
Well I was hoping for some examples, but I have 3 trunk lids to try and get apart, what do I have to lose? Besides I love a challenge!

[green69rt]

The hood shouldn't be a problem.  But The trunk is skinned like a door, as soon as you start attempting to unfold the skin it's going to bend the outer skin around the edges. It's not impossible to do but it's not a job for the inexperienced.

I know exactly what you are saying, (I took 3 sets of doors apart, and could not save any of the outer skins)
Well I was hoping for some examples, but I have 3 trunk lids to try and get apart, what do I have to lose? Besides I love a challenge!

It will probably turn out OK.  When I got my new front fenders from AMD, I didn't like the way the edge that meets the door matched the door profile.  I took that edge apart and reset the profile on the new fender.  I seem to remember that I had to do a little massaging of the AMD metal to make it lay flat again.  Just went out to look at my car and can't tell that anything was done.