What's the aluminum radiator of choice?

[Musclecarnut]

A new 4 row Mishimoto aluminum radiator and a set of dual flex lite 12" fans fixed my problem right up. Just wanted to share my fix

[c00nhunterjoe]

At hot temps such as 205, 210, 220 etc, the 160 or 180 stat means nothing as both are at full flow and not cycling. Even the 195 is wide open by overheat temps so if you are over 200 degrees,  the 160 or 180 is not the reason.

Stats don't just 'pop' open, nor 'pop' closed again at their rated temps ?
It takes some degree's above and below their temp and time to open and flow fully. But no matter, just say'in that is 160* stat is full open by 165-170 and reducing/cooling that heat sink build up into the block and coolant waaaay before a 190* is even beginning to think about opening.

Like I said, no matter, do whatever feels right for your application.
All I know is that when I ran a 190" in mine in summers it WILL get hot and close to overheat in traffic ? with engine run-on after shut off, and I even heard the rad "gurgling" once, hence why I switched to the 160* as I don't winter drive anyways obviously.
whereas,
the difference was that with the 160 T-stat installed, it runs cool as a cucumber even sitting in Bumper to Bumper Traffic at 90+

Not doubting you.....but how does a lower temp stat help the motor run cooler in traffic? When its open ( at around 160 in your case) that it... its open and unless your engine should cool right down (unlikely in traffic) it will just stay wide open....it has no effect on the upper limit the engine temp will reach. As said before that's down to when your fan is at full speed....or, in the case of electric fans when the temp limit is reached and the electric switch kicks in the fan. The stat ONLY controls the temp at which the water starts to flow through the rad....which is why when a fan fails jammed open it takes forever for the engine to warm up....but it will still reach the same temp eventually..(in slow traffic at least) . The only difference is the motor might run too cold on the freeway due to overcooling as the waters always flows through the rad. So how does a lower temp stat get your engine running cooler in traffic. I just cant see it makes any difference.

If you have a 50* cooling range from 160* to 210* within which the cooling system can apply it's full flow cooling..... versus.... trying to cool within say a 20* range opening a 190* T-stat at 190-195* to 210* or to boiling where-ever ?

You guys DO whatever you wish

I'll stay with what works and runs cool as a cucumber in my stock/original 50 year old 22" Radiator(no shroud) cooling my original un-rebuilt '69 440 Magnum,
which,
is also co-incidentally what the factory manual said to use for summer/hot weather...... being a 160* T-Stat.

I agree. My quote was referring to the reccomendation of changing to the 195 to prevent overheating. Thats absurd. The 160 gives you more time to keep it cool in the summer heat. But if it is overheating in traffic, your tune or cooling system isnt up to par and the 160 is just buying you more time to get airflow moving again as you stater. I see it at the major car cruises every year. (Ocean city, wildwood) cars boiling and getting pushed to the side during the parades. Just takes a little investigating to see what your issue is. Most cars have big crazy engines and the owners didnt upgrade or install a cooling system to accomadate. A 572 isnt going to idle all day on a stock 22" 60 year old half plugged radiator and a single 10" electric fan, and yet a guy last year tried it at wildwood. Lol. And they dont get it... "ive got an electric fan, why is it overheating?"

[Calif240]

Love my Champion radiator. Pretty darn good for the money. I don't have electrical fan, but have never once had an issue with temp. It stays super cool at all times, even when idling. Running a 440 with alum heads, long-tube TTI headers, edelbrock intake.
Terry