Powder coating tips?

[Rack]

Looked in the classifieds today and found a "double" oven (regular oven on the bottom, stove, and then a smaller oven on top) for $100.


Haven't plugged it in yet but it looks like it's in good shape. I have to clear out my dryer so I can have room to plug the oven in. If it doesn't work it probably won't take much to fix it. Looks very solid.


Now I just have to wait for the powder coating equipment to get here and I can start experimenting.

[Drop Top]

When Powder Coating. Just like paint you can get it too thick and it will become a run. That picture looks like maybe a drip from the gun. Like a bit of powder droped onto it somehow. You do know that when you recoat something. Your not suposed to bake the first coat all the way entill its cured, don't you? If you did cure it out before the next/2nd coat. Then it might be a bubble where it didn't stick to the first layer.

Here is a tip. Next time you do a set of rotors. Dont wast time tapeing them off. After you have coated them. Take them to a place that turns rotors and have them turned just enough to get rid of the coating. Just be careful not to blast the surface area with your blaster. I have done this a number of times. Costs around here range from $5 to $10 a piece.

[The Ghoul]

When Powder Coating. Just like paint you can get it too thick and it will become a run. That picture looks like maybe a drip from the gun. Like a bit of powder droped onto it somehow. You do know that when you recoat something. Your not suposed to bake the first coat all the way entill its cured, don't you? If you did cure it out before the next/2nd coat. Then it might be a bubble where it didn't stick to the first layer.

Here is a tip. Next time you do a set of rotors. Dont wast time tapeing them off. After you have coated them. Take them to a place that turns rotors and have them turned just enough to get rid of the coating. Just be careful not to blast the surface area with your blaster. I have done this a number of times. Costs around here range from $5 to $10 a piece.

I was paranoied that the centers of the rotors would get to hot and melt the coating so I wanted to keep it to just the center.
Sounds great though.
So do you just bake the first coat untill it smooths out?
or
Do you just lightly bake it to the point where there is just a lot of little 'blobs'?

Well eather way my brakes are finaly done and I am very happy with the results!
Both looks and function!

Next project is that old set of keystone clasics that came on my charger 

[Rack]

Great job, Ghoul! Looks freakin' awesome!


Can't wait to get my powder coating kit so I can try this stuff out.

[daytonalo]

WHEN WE POWDERCOAT ANY CAR PART WE CLEAN THEN BLAST IT THEN , HERES THE KEY STEP , IT'S CALLED OUTGASING . THIS IS THOSE PIMPLES OR LUMPS , TO REDUCE THE CHANCE OF OUTGASING YOU NEED TO HANG CLEANED AND BLASTED PART IN THE OVEN AND BRING PART TO 400 FOR ONE HOUR , REMOVE THEN LET COOL TO UNDER 100 DEGREES THEN YOU READY TO POWDERCOAT . I TRY NEVER TO COAT A PART HOT BECAUSE IT WILL PILE ON TOO MUCH POWDER AND BE PRONE TO CHIPPING. LARRY

[new_red_67]

12 years ago, I started a polyurethane molding business and tried to use a regular electric oven for R & D.  Knowing the particular material I was dealing with required a tight temperature range for the urethane to cure properly I put a lab grade thermometer in the oven.  After monitoring its cycles for several hours, I was shocked to discover the "on cycle" would overshoot the target temp by 77 deg and undershoot as much as 49 degrees.

Knowing that all electric home ovens (except the new digital types) overshoot and undershoot as bad or worse than mine did, I'd need to know how sensitive the powdercoating material is to these temp swings or if it matters at all.  Just a thought.