What front disc brake conversion kit to use on my 70 Charger

[Kevins70charger]

What is everyone using now to do a front disc brake conversion?

[John_Kunkel]

Either factory parts:

https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/brakes/disc-main.html

Or aftermarket, Doc Diff makes some nice kits:

http://www.doctordiff.com/brakes/complete-kits/

[will]

Go with Dr. Diff, you won't be disappointed.

[garner7555]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,122780.0.html

This is what I recommend     

[Rubberduck]

I used MP brakes twice. Would do that again.
https://www.mpbrakes.com/

Mario

[RamZCharger]

I wouldn't use Dr. Diff again, go with a matched set from a brand focused on aftermarket performance.

As to the Diffs he puts together, absolutely.  Judge this book by it's cover.

[Nacho-RT74]

I simply wouldn't reinvent the wheel... 73 and lates A body parts with big caliper bracket to big rotors and done. Prooven to work since ever, bullet proof, no adapters anywhere... And you'll be allways getting parts for Mopars

[Lennard]

If you don't want to re-invent the wheel, call Summit or Jegs and order a Wilwood kit.

[Bad B-rad]

Sorry to thread jack, a bit, but I have a 69 Charger, and I am doing a disc brake swap, I decided to go with factory Chrysler parts.
I got a set of "PIN TYPE" caliper brackets, and the set of new disc brake spindles, the A-body big bearing style.
So I am going to use the 11.75 rotors.
The question I have is for Pin type calipers, there seams to be 3 different caliper choices.
#1 the 1966-1969 4 piston style, used with 2pc rotor, I do not think this will work with my brackets, and I know this is a poor choice, so this is out for me
That leaves one of the following.
#2 the 1970-1972 style(I think some guys call it the "wide Mouth " style(originally used on the 10.98 rotor)
#3 the 1973-1978/79 Style,used on the 10.98 rotor AND the 11.75

Is there any advantage to one of the 70-72 STYLE" over  the 73-79 style???



And the last question, I have is: if a guy uses the 10.98 size rotors, but he gets the drilled and slotted rotor kit will that offer brake preformance on par with or exceeding  the 11.75 size rotor in the plain(NON drill/ slotted style)??


MANCINNI Racing offers Brand new disc brake spindles AND CALIPER BRACKETS for $166.(slider style brackets, and I think for the 10.98 rotor size)
That is ten more bucks then Classic, DR.Diff, and ram man. are asking for JUST their spindle kit.
That seams like a great way to start off a Disc brake build, if O.P wants to go that route.

[timmycharger]

I simply wouldn't reinvent the wheel... 73 and lates A body parts with big caliper bracket to big rotors and done. Prooven to work since ever, bullet proof, no adapters anywhere... And you'll be allways getting parts for Mopars

This is what I did the first time around about 15 years ago. I used Mopar Action's (Rick E) disc swap article, I am sure you can find it on line.

The second time around I bought a kit from Master Power, had some issues with the copper washers not sealing up the calipers but using real Mopar ones cured that.  

[Nacho-RT74]

This is what I did the first time around about 15 years ago. I used Mopar Action's (Rick E) disc swap article, I am sure you can find it on line.

not anymore on line since Mopar Action magazine is gone so the website too, but it's at Allpar posted by JK. Somebody got pictured the magazine article though and I have it saved.

[Nacho-RT74]

The question I have is for Pin type calipers, there seams to be 3 different caliper choices.
#1 the 1966-1969 4 piston style, used with 2pc rotor, I do not think this will work with my brackets, and I know this is a poor choice, so this is out for me
That leaves one of the following.
#2 the 1970-1972 style(I think some guys call it the "wide Mouth " style(originally used on the 10.98 rotor)
#3 the 1973-1978/79 Style,used on the 10.98 rotor AND the 11.75

Is there any advantage to one of the 70-72 STYLE" over  the 73-79 style???

actually as far I recall between 2 and 3 the deal is more toward to the hose indexing and caliper position depending on bracket for the hose on frame rail. RE explains that on the article. Check the caliper labeled X! on the article. Is the one my car got, from factory, but of course my car is ready for it, maybe not the best one for some conversions but just due the hose location

And the last question, I have is: if a guy uses the 10.98 size rotors, but he gets the drilled and slotted rotor kit will that offer brake preformance on par with or exceeding  the 11.75 size rotor in the plain(NON drill/ slotted style)??

Centric offers drilled and slotted rotors at Rockauto for both sizes. I'm running 10.9" because is what my car got from fact, but as soon I find on an AFFORDABLE price, pin kind calipers for 11.75", will get same drilled and slotted rotors for that size. Also using ceramic pads

MANCINNI Racing offers Brand new disc brake spindles AND CALIPER BRACKETS for $166.(slider style brackets, and I think for the 10.98 rotor size)
That is ten more bucks then Classic, DR.Diff, and ram man. are asking for JUST their spindle kit.
That seams like a great way to start off a Disc brake build, if O.P wants to go that route.

well, if anybody is able to get donor parts froms some JY, mostly sure won't spend more than $250-300 for the full conversion. The Ram man is charging allmost $300 for JUST the 11.75" pin kind caliper brackets 

[Bad B-rad]

TThe Ram man is charging allmost $300 for JUST the 11.75" pin kind caliper brackets 

I KNOW CRAZY!!!!!!!
I am so glad I scored my pin type bracket at a fair price.
I may be able to get an adaptor to use the 10.98 Pin Bracket, on a 11.75 rotor, then that will help a lot of people, out!!
Will open the door for a lot of guys!!

So Nacho-RT74, how well do the drill and slotted rotor, work over the stock ones?
I put a four wheel disc kit on my 66 Charger with drilled and slotted rotors, and it did upgrade the braking performance a ton, but I was not impressed with the drill and slotted rotor upgrade.
I also never really pushed the 66 very hard.

I just wondering if a guy was thinking of going 11.75 rotors, and he got the 10.98 drill and slotted, if the would be a great option, of if he should just go 11.75,(if he can get the brackets!!!)

[Nacho-RT74]

Maybe I could tell the diff between regular and drilled/slotted if I was kept same pads kind, but since I change the pads to ceramics at the same time, hard to tell.

Drilled/slotted rotors are more toward to constant brake stress getting heat. These features will make them to keep cooler, but maybe on regular braking situation, the pads will become on a more noticeable improvement than the rotors itself.

[Bad B-rad]

Do you think a measurable gain will be felt when you go to the 11.75?
I really would love to know, even just to be able to advise people it it is worth it to spend extra cash on the larger brackets.


I am going pin style with 11.75  drill and slotted right out of the box, I feel that will be the best, and cheapest I can afford, while sticking with Chrysler parts.

[Nacho-RT74]

well, bigger rotors is not more than more total braking surface to keep them even cooler allong the surface, while the direct contact ( pads against rotors ) remains the same. I can't tell it really. Is an upgrade I want but have some other upgrade priorities at this moment, like RCD shocks and TuffStuff alt

[garner7555]

well, bigger rotors is not more than more total braking surface to keep them even cooler allong the surface, while the direct contact ( pads against rotors ) remains the same. I can't tell it really. Is an upgrade I want but have some other upgrade priorities at this moment, like RCD shocks and TuffStuff alt

The main advantage to larger rotors is more leverage.   Think of your brakes like a wrench turning a really tight bolt.  A 10" long wrench might not be able to turn it, but a 15" long wrench will turn it with less effort than was used while trying with the 10" long wrench.  This is the same principal that gives you more control and braking power with larger brakes.      This is why I have 14" Brembos   

[Bad B-rad]

well, bigger rotors is not more than more total braking surface to keep them even cooler allong the surface, while the direct contact ( pads against rotors ) remains the same. I can't tell it really. Is an upgrade I want but have some other upgrade priorities at this moment, like RCD shocks and TuffStuff alt

The main advantage to larger rotors is more leverage.   Think of your brakes like a wrench turning a really tight bolt.  A 10" long wrench might not be able to turn it, but a 15" long wrench will turn it with less effort than was used while trying with the 10" long wrench.  This is the same principal that gives you more control and braking power with larger brakes.      This is why I have 14" Brembos   

Got ya!!!!!


I just put brembos on my 2016, AMAZING!!!!!
Never had brakes so good!!!!!
What size rims you running to clear the brembos?

[Nacho-RT74]

Never thought on leverage too!

[alfaitalia]

well, bigger rotors is not more than more total braking surface to keep them even cooler allong the surface, while the direct contact ( pads against rotors ) remains the same. I can't tell it really. Is an upgrade I want but have some other upgrade priorities at this moment, like RCD shocks and TuffStuff alt

The main advantage to larger rotors is more leverage.   Think of your brakes like a wrench turning a really tight bolt.  A 10" long wrench might not be able to turn it, but a 15" long wrench will turn it with less effort than was used while trying with the 10" long wrench.  This is the same principal that gives you more control and braking power with larger brakes.      This is why I have 14" Brembos   

Against that you have higher disc speed going past the pads for any given road speed. This means more heat (but more metal to dissipate it) and less servo assistance needed unless you want horribly grabby brakes. And of course you need calipers with pistons sized correctly in relation to master cylinder size. This will be different then when using smaller discs. Not to mention that if you can already lock your frony tyres then you already have more braking force than you can use (you will get a better initial braking though.....possibly at the loss of some pedal "feel".....with bigger discs). To take advantage of the new brakes you will need better (wider & lower profile)) tyres, stiffer front suspension (to control the altered front to rear weight bias under heavy braking) etc etc. Otherwise you wont stop much faster.....but it will feel like it due to lower pedal pressure.

[Nacho-RT74]

I was to post about the speed increase causing heat but more disipation at this moment which it was mi initial thought... but leverage is quite true

[garner7555]

well, bigger rotors is not more than more total braking surface to keep them even cooler allong the surface, while the direct contact ( pads against rotors ) remains the same. I can't tell it really. Is an upgrade I want but have some other upgrade priorities at this moment, like RCD shocks and TuffStuff alt

The main advantage to larger rotors is more leverage.   Think of your brakes like a wrench turning a really tight bolt.  A 10" long wrench might not be able to turn it, but a 15" long wrench will turn it with less effort than was used while trying with the 10" long wrench.  This is the same principal that gives you more control and braking power with larger brakes.      This is why I have 14" Brembos   

Against that you have higher disc speed going past the pads for any given road speed. This means more heat (but more metal to dissipate it) and less servo assistance needed unless you want horribly grabby brakes. And of course you need calipers with pistons sized correctly in relation to master cylinder size. This will be different then when using smaller discs. Not to mention that if you can already lock your frony tyres then you already have more braking force than you can use (you will get a better initial braking though.....possibly at the loss of some pedal "feel".....with bigger discs). To take advantage of the new brakes you will need better (wider & lower profile)) tyres, stiffer front suspension (to control the altered front to rear weight bias under heavy braking) etc etc. Otherwise you wont stop much faster.....but it will feel like it due to lower pedal pressure.

It' not about locking the wheels up to make one panic stop, Drum brakes work great for that.   The idea with larger brake is more control when you are on the brakes hard in every corner of a road course, curvy mountain road, ect.

[garner7555]

well, bigger rotors is not more than more total braking surface to keep them even cooler allong the surface, while the direct contact ( pads against rotors ) remains the same. I can't tell it really. Is an upgrade I want but have some other upgrade priorities at this moment, like RCD shocks and TuffStuff alt

The main advantage to larger rotors is more leverage.   Think of your brakes like a wrench turning a really tight bolt.  A 10" long wrench might not be able to turn it, but a 15" long wrench will turn it with less effort than was used while trying with the 10" long wrench.  This is the same principal that gives you more control and braking power with larger brakes.      This is why I have 14" Brembos   

Got ya!!!!!


I just put brembos on my 2016, AMAZING!!!!!
Never had brakes so good!!!!!
What size rims you running to clear the brembos?

I currently have 20s.  I haven't decide on my final wheel and tire combo yet, but 18s would be the absolute smallest that would fit and some 18s might not clear.   I know my setup isn't popular, but that's ok.  I like to drive it like I stole it at times.   I respect the people with all original, NOS parts, trailer queens but sometimes I don't get the same respect from them.  Funny how that works isn't it.          

[Bad B-rad]

No I dig what your doing in 2001/2002 I put a 4 wheel disc brake kit on a 66 Dodge Charger, with drill and slotted rotors, and every handling improvement I could afford.

If I planed on driving it like you I would def do that mod!!!!

[ACUDANUT]

I simply wouldn't reinvent the wheel... 73 and lates A body parts with big caliper bracket to big rotors and done. Prooven to work since ever, bullet proof, no adapters anywhere... And you'll be allways getting parts for Mopars

Any 68-74 B body factory disc brakes would do the job very well.     Look in the "Parts section. for sale". 
However, we have a few diehard fans, that swear drum brakes are better.