dual 13 inch fan and 150 amp alternator

[komninon]

i will convert from a 7 blade flex fan to spal dual 13 inch fan  3554 cfm
is this enough to cool 520ci with around 600hp?
also going from carb to holley hp port injection
is a 150 amp alternator enough to support all the changes?
thank you George

[c00nhunterjoe]

Are they being mounted to a shroud? What radiator? 3500 cfm may be enough depending on the rest of the cooling system and how hot the ambient temps are. 150 amp should be plenty unless you have boom boom units in the trunk. Figure 40 amps per fan, 10 amps ignition, and factor in your other accessories from there. Dont forget to run dedicated relays for each fan and upgrade the main feed wiring to the car to handle the load.

[Nacho-RT74]

150 amps is max output, but how much at iddle?

I don't think fans will suck 40 each...i'm toward to 17-25 max

[komninon]

powermaster said 100 at idle
spal said 20 each fan,    relay for sure
electric fans, electric fuel pump ,ac and efi stuff......
is going to have custom shroud

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok, as I thought, the load was rated as expected... 100 amps iddling is quite nice output level!

Feed them from alt stud, not from batt.

Please take care to upgrade charging wiring system to ammeter ( both sides )

[pipeliner]

Why can't you run them from the battery. Is there even enough room to hook up to 2 fans to the alt stud?

[Nacho-RT74]

If you got the ammeter still working, hook up ANYTHING from batt to source the power is a big mistake. Needs to be feeded from alt.

A buss bar or junction point can be installed somewhere if you are worried about how to hook everything from there, but feed from alt is A MUST!

[pipeliner]

If you got the ammeter still working, hook up ANYTHING from batt to source the power is a big mistake. Needs to be feeded from alt.

A buss bar or junction point can be installed somewhere if you are worried about how to hook everything from there, but feed from alt is A MUST!

So that's only if you have an Ammeter?

[c00nhunterjoe]

If you got the ammeter still working, hook up ANYTHING from batt to source the power is a big mistake. Needs to be feeded from alt.

A buss bar or junction point can be installed somewhere if you are worried about how to hook everything from there, but feed from alt is A MUST!

So that's only if you have an Ammeter?

Imo, no. The factory wiring when new, was only designed for 50 amps of power.

[mopar0166]

Yeah I had a few electrical issues when I went to my big block and added electric fans, electric fuel, msd etc etc

first thing I did was do a rough list of all the add ons and give them a general rating in amps usage.  I then understood my alternator was overwhelmed, so I then upgraded to a single wire powermaster.  that helped big time.   I also then got fed up with the old wiring issues and rewired the entire car with a 21 circuit painless.  The additions of a new alternator, optima battery and new wiring made a world of difference.   The painless kit allowed me to correctly wire the add ons and keep all of my stock features like the AO1 package, interior lights,  new gauges etc.   If you have a good understanding of the stock wiring setup, it was easy to lay out both diagrams for the stock and painless to make what I have today.  I have had zero issues and couldn't be happier.  it was money well spent.   

[Nacho-RT74]

I have already explained this and is stickyed

[c00nhunterjoe]

Its not hard to add a basic fuse box to bypass the use of the stock wiring.  Ground bars are 3 or 4 bucks and a basic fuse box is in thr teens to low 20s. Doesnt have to be fancy to work.