Recommendations for new cam on stock 71 383 HP

[71 Bee Man]

G'day guys.

Some may have seen my previous post regarding problems with valves on No.8 cylinder on my Bee's 383.

In anticipation that it may be a worn lobe on the camshaft, I thought I'd ask for recommendations as to what camshaft would be good to replace to original one with.

I don't race my car, just drive it, but I do like it to have the right amount of "kick" that it should. It has a Holley 750 and headers, and is completely stock as far as I know.....even the original motor.....automatic with 3.23 sure grip diff....is there a particular cam I could just "whack" in and get good performance from ? Is there a "standard" that most guys use ?
Years ago I did some cam research for a 340 I had that needed a cam.....got a purple shaft from memory, but do you think I can remember what all the numbers and stuff mean now ?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,

Peter

[XH29N0G]

I used a lunati 702 (at that time was 60302 - which you can search the number on this forum) and liked that.  (Do not know the rest of the numbers).  I also believe the Comp cams 262 or 268 are good options. 


Best of luck with the car. 

[Nacho-RT74]

What about the crower 271HDP ? ( or 267 )

[Draco]

   You might check with guys at Hughes Engines, I bought a whiplash cam for a small block and it sounds and run well for a 318. They have a kit for a low deck that includes cam, lifters and springs for $341.00.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Did you determine that the cam is the cause for low compression? I didnt see aNy updates on the thread?

[71 Bee Man]

Did you determine that the cam is the cause for low compression? I didnt see aNy updates on the thread?

Thanks for the input guys.

I did a hot compression test....same - 37 psi in No. 8.
I took off the valve cover and the rockers.......thought it may be a stuck valve, so gave it a few decent taps, but there wasn't anything noticeable. Pushrods are straight.
Compression never came up when adding oil to the cylinder....pretty confident in a valve problem.
Getting right down to the pipe at the rear exhaust, in between the exhaust note, you can hear a bit of a constant ticking sound. There's also slight "tappetty" noise when the motor is running....diminishes (or less noticeable) at higher revs.

So....Thursday I'm taking it to work, and leaving it with my mechanic behind work - a good guy who knows older cars. He thought valves may have been adjustable, but we know they aren't. Even he said we might be looking at a collapsed lifter, or possibly a worn lobe on the camshaft.....hence my throwing it out there. I mentioned I've had a worn lobe before on a 340.....and on No.8 from memory, but it was a long time ago, and symptoms were heavy fuel use and smokey rear bumper after long trips.

In any case, if it's a lifter, I'd probably be wise to do them all and add a new cam as well. Just want to get the right cam.

Peter

[71 Bee Man]

What about the crower 271HDP ? ( or 267 )

Hey Nacho....I'm just doing some research on them now - thanks.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I would again highly recommend airing the cylinder to find the source of the problem before buying parts.

[71 Bee Man]

I would again highly recommend airing the cylinder to find the source of the problem before buying parts.

Yep.......as soon as I get an adaptor to use the air line with. Going to smash a spark plug tomorrow, weld on an air fitting and see how I go.
In the meantime, I'm just covering bases so I have a plan regardless.

[71 Bee Man]

I would again highly recommend airing the cylinder to find the source of the problem before buying parts.

Well, I pumped air into No.8 cylinder.....4 times to make sure I had it at T.D.C.....each time I had air coming out the tailpipe.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I would again highly recommend airing the cylinder to find the source of the problem before buying parts.

Well, I pumped air into No.8 cylinder.....4 times to make sure I had it at T.D.C.....each time I had air coming out the tailpipe.

Thats not a wiped cam. You have a burnt exhaust valve or trashed seat. Bottom line, you need new heads.

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm agreed

If not a valve itself maybe it's time to install a full set of hardened seats to keep safe from unleaded gas

[c00nhunterjoe]

The cost for valves, springs, retainers, seats and guides and machine work is more then a new set of aluminums though.

[sccachallenger]

I would again highly recommend airing the cylinder to find the source of the problem before buying parts.

Well, I pumped air into No.8 cylinder.....4 times to make sure I had it at T.D.C.....each time I had air coming out the tailpipe.

if not sure, or the pushrod doesn't ever get loose, loosen the rocker shaft bolts to be sure it's closed.

[Sublime/Sixpack]

Have you decided just how far you want to go with this engine at this time?

[71 Bee Man]

Hey guys,

I've heard it mentioned a couple of times that alloy heads would be cheaper than restoring mine.....thing is, here in Australia stuff isn't as readily available as it is in the states.
So when you mention a new set of alloy heads......is it a matter of simply buying the whole thing with valves etc ? And if so, where do you suggest ? I
Lo gladly check out what the cost of me importing them myself is. The car is with my mechanic today, just giving me his opinion....he's a good bloke, I trust him.

[71 Bee Man]

Have you decided just how far you want to go with this engine at this time?

I'm not the richest guy in the world, but I am quite happy to pull stuff apart and fix what's broken. I simply want the car to run nice. If I can give it some help with performance along the way without going mad, then that's great. As I've mentioned, it runs quite well, but it annoys the hell out of me that one cylinder isn't running as it should be.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I would get a hard, written quote to fully rebuild your iron heads with 2.14/ 1.8 valves, new seats, new guides, new springs. Then, take that dollar figure and compare it to a set of stealths from 440 source.  For about 1000 us dollars you can get an entry level set of heads. 1500 will get a better set. I dont know what the import costs are for you but that should give you an idea.

[71 Bee Man]

I would get a hard, written quote to fully rebuild your iron heads with 2.14/ 1.8 valves, new seats, new guides, new springs. Then, take that dollar figure and compare it to a set of stealths from 440 source.  For about 1000 us dollars you can get an entry level set of heads. 1500 will get a better set. I dont know what the import costs are for you but that should give you an idea.

Thanks for the advice.

Looking at 440source now. Trying to understand what "cc's" relate to etc. sent them an email telling them what's going on. Have found a few places out here that advertise Mopar heads, but honestly.....just don't trust them and not real happy with prices.

[XH29N0G]

Looking at 440source now. Trying to understand what "cc's" relate to etc.

Apologies if I misread your question.  

The ccs are the chamber volume.  These are needed to calculate what the final (static) compression ratio is.  

The swept volume of an 383 that is not bored is something like 785 cc.  

The compressed volume is calculated by adding the volume of the chamber (the cc's you are asking about) to the volume of the hole in the compressed gasket to the volume created by the piston being down in the block.

You can calculate this by hand but it might be easier to use an online calculator like this one at Wallace racing.  http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php

The bore is 4.25 if stock and the stroke is 3.325 (both in inches).  The stock steel gasket is thinner than the replacement gaskets from Felpro you are likely to use; so things will change if you change gaskets.  

I do not know how far down in the hole the pistons usually are for your engine.  Someone here will be able to advise, but your engine person should also know or be able to determine them.


Coonhunter gives good advice.

[c00nhunterjoe]

  thanks for the thumbs up, i would add bsb67, firefighterron, prh, heyoldguy to the list of advice to really take note to when it comes to engine, head and piston selection.

[PRH]

I might be the only guy on this board that doesn't think that a set of new aftermarket heads are the "best" option for a mild 383.
I like the smaller valves and smaller intake runner volume of the OE heads for this type of application.

915's would be my first choice, but I wouldn't spend the money for the cores that most seem to be asking these days.
My next choice, for a mild street motor like we're talking about here would be 516's.
Then any of the 68 and newer open chamber heads if I couldn't find a set of closed chamber heads cheap enough and in decent enough shape for my liking.
Oem replacement valves and springs are pretty cheap.

I'd have a competent machine shop refurbish your heads(or some 516/915 heads), new bronze guides as needed, hardened exhaust seats installed, new springs, new exhaust valves(intakes only if needed), flat milled .030, cut the guide tops for positive Viton seals.
I'm pretty sure that would cost you less down under than buying aftermarket heads.

The reason for the .030 cut is so you can use the "normal" fel pro composition gaskets without losing compression when not using the steel shim gaskets.

Heads like that, along with the other parts you have on the motor, and a Comp 268h would make for a nice running 383.

If the shop doing the head work is capable.....  If it's within your budget, have them do a very basic bowl blend.

Assuming 16 bronze guides and 16 new oem replacement type valves, new performance springs, viton seals, including a minor bowl blend(240-250cfm depending on which heads you started with)........ $1150-1200 at my shop.

If they only got 8 ex valves and 8 ex guides, no porting...... $950.

I think one of the least expensive ways to go about it(here in the states), is buy some of the rebuilt Aerohead heads, and just have them gone through locally. $500 or so for the heads......make sure the seats and guides are good, might be $250-300 more.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I would agree on the 516s. Most people throw them away. I had them on my 383 and was in the 12s with it for years. Not sure what the costs would be to rebuild a set for him though.

[PRH]

With the added cubes of a 440........ Then I'm right on board with just going straight to aftermarket aluminum heads.

But, with a low-ish compression 383 in a fairly stock vehicle, I'm not so sure the extra runner volume and bigger valves are doing you any good.

It would make for a fun test.

[c00nhunterjoe]

With the added cubes of a 440........ Then I'm right on board with just going straight to aftermarket aluminum heads.

But, with a low-ish compression 383 in a fairly stock vehicle, I'm not so sure the extra runner volume and bigger valves are doing you any good.

It would make for a fun test.

I made my suggestion based on the relativley low overall co.pression numbers in his other post. If he were stritcly fixing the heads and not touching the bottom end, i would order a set of 516s from aerohead. They sell stock replacements rebuilt for 600 bucks a pair. Since he is talking about a total teardown on the engine, i am planning on more then a low compression 383 going back together. Regardless, the 516s i ran had no professional work done to them and would pull hard to 7000 rpm.