Global West Suspension - Subframe Connectors

[SwiftJonny]

Has anyone tried these?
http://www.globalwest.net/930.html
I really like the tubular design compared to square tubing.
Any issues with installation?

[70 sublime]

Your link shows Tubular tie rod adjusting sleeves and not frame connectors

[SwiftJonny]

The link has been modified to be more specific.

[Dino]

Nothing wrong with those as long as you weld them in for maximum efficacy. Personally I like the boxed frames better because once in place they look stock and they are welded over the entire run of the floor panels. And unless you drop a hellcat engine in your car and go test its limits, I don't see the advantage of tubular connectors. Our cars will never test the limits of the boxed rails, even when driven hard.

[SwiftJonny]

The US Cartools boxed in style would definitely be the best, but the most difficult to install on a finished car. I'm looking for the best option for two-point weld in style.

[Dino]

For certain the tubular model will be easier on a finished car. The Cartool models will require a bit more repainting for sure. Alternatively you can make your own for a whole lot less money as well. Several members here have done so.

Honestly, whatever frame connectors you install, they will all do the job.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I would just buy box steel and weld it in. Much cheaper.

[Lennard]

I would just buy box steel and weld it in. Much cheaper.

That's maybe $40 worth of steel in that picture.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I used 2x3 box. About 30 bucks total. I sunk it through the floor and welded everything. If you dont want to deal with the floor, use 2x2 box. But in my opinion, fully welded stiffens it astronomicly over just touching the front and rear rails.

[Laowho]

I used 2x3 box. About 30 bucks total. I sunk it through the floor and welded everything. If you dont want to deal with the floor, use 2x2 box. But in my opinion, fully welded stiffens it astronomicly over just touching the front and rear rails.

That's what we're gonna do, but can only find in 11 and 14 gauge. Assuming 14 is fine given our mild build and that we're welding to the floor.

[c00nhunterjoe]

14, or .083 is fine. Thats equivalant, actually thicker, to the factory rails.
CjwKEAiA8JbEBRCz2szzhqrx7H8SJAC6FjXXdcU4_WKA2PM2XNk4ztHfVvLPfMD7Aq6Dj99aZmSfzBoC2m3w_wcB

[68CoronetRT]

I'm doing the Hotchkis bars currently. It's actually in the shop now.

I like the idea of tieing the leaf springs to the T bar mount, and not having to weld to the floor which will require removing the whole interior.

Just my opinion. They arnt cheap, thats for sure, but IMO definitely a good design.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Its really only 8 nuts and a hand full of phillips screws and the carpet is out. If you are going that far, you might as well go all out. It is well worth it. It also gives you a chance to check and seal any floor pan rust and add sound deadner.

[tan top]

I would just buy box steel and weld it in. Much cheaper.

That's maybe $40 worth of steel in that picture.