Adjusting lifter preload

[Paul G]

I have the intake off to replace the gaskets, good time to check lifter preload. They are Topline Hylift Johnson B2011R lifters on a small block. And they are noisy! That is the reason I want to check preload. I have Crane adjustable rockers. I am going to put a half turn of preload, which is about .030" on the lifters.

Side note, On my receipt the lifter part number is B2011R, on Hylift Johnson's website for a 5.9, 71 to 78, it calls for an A2011. I know the R is for a "Race" leak down type lifter. Not sure what the "B" is all about?

First get the cam on the base circle for the lifter I am adjusting, then I backed off the adjuster till there is play between the rocker and push rod. Then roll the pushrod between my finger tips until I feel some light resistance and the play is gone. Then give the adjuster screw 1/2 turn.

What I am finding is on some of the lifters, giving that 1/2 turn of preload, i feel almost no resistance turning the adjuster screw in, it turns easy, valve spring does not move. On other lifters giving that 1/2 turn on the adjuster screw, I feel a lot of resistance and I can see the valve spring compressing. What is wrong?   

[BSB67]

Can you expand on the "race" leak down lifter?

There are racing - hydraulic limited travel lifters (like 0.015 to 0.030"" total travel) that are really a solid lifter disguising as a hydraulic lifter intended only to pass racing rules.  Because they are intended to leak down, they are usually set off the bottom of plunger travel. And they will rattle like a solid, no matter how you adjust them.

If it is a conventional high performance lifter, and you want to set it up for max. performance, set the pre-load to zero to 0.010".  If you want to make the noise go away, I don't have any adjustment suggestions.

[Paul G]

I am about ready to just replace them, or put the old ones back in. A couple of the old lifters had a ticking to them. That is why I put these in. I am not sure why Topline sent me the "R" lifters when I ordered them?

This is the second set of lifters on that cam. Is it okay to put another set on the same cam? The cam lobes have a pattern on them that can be seen. Smooth across the face of each lifter. Lobes do not have any outward signs of going flat. I use high zinc oil. 

What bothers me is some of them push against the valve as I am trying to set the 1/2 turn of preload. Dont seem right? I have been calling Topline in Muskegan, MI, leave a message for a tech, no one calls me back.


From Toplines website;

http://hylift-johnson.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/HyLift-Johnson-Lifter-Catalog_2014.pdf

"R" or Race Design: These parts have an "R" designation after their part number. So a Race
Design part number will look like A-0817R. These Lifters have a Leak Down on the lower end
of the scale from 8 to 20 seconds. In the performance application these lifter will actually
"Bleed" down and result in an effective loss of valve lift and duration at lower RPMs. These
are also referred to as "Variable Duration" Lifters and will supply a better idle quality when
using a performance cam while still getting the benefit of the upper end power over a stock
cam. As the engine increases in RPM the Bleed down effect is reduced resulting in more duration
and valve lift. Having lifters with a much smaller Leak Down range will also balance all
of the cylinders to each other. Having one cylinder with lifters having a Leak Down of 80
seconds will react and produce a different power curve than the same cylinder with a 10
second Lifter.

[BSB67]

This is not what I would call a "racing " hyd lifter.

All of the variable duration, or bleed down lifters I have been around are pretty loud, and sound almost like a solid.  I think it is the nature of the beast.  And I don't think you can adjust your way out of it.  As I mentioned earlier, the only preload I have run is zero or near zero.  But I don't care about the valve train noise either.

Without being able to see your stuff, it make it difficult to answer why some lifters are firm and others are not.  Could be a few things, I would guess: 1) The level of pump up/bleed down might simply be a reflection of where each lifter was on the lobe when the car was last shut down, 2) Maybe the plunger is all the way down on some of the lifters, 3) QA/QC issue with the lifters.

Also, you have to be able to see the plunger to set the preload on most of today's lifters. You cannot go by twisting the pushrod and waiting for some drag, or waiting for resistance on the adjuster as you tighten.  That simply will not work.  You have to watch the plunger for first movement.  There are other ways that require a developed feel, but it is still a good idea to watch the lifter plunger.

If you run a 20-50 W oil, it will probably get quieter.