Light Dimming Issue

[CRW-FK5]

your readings would have been much better if you would have had the smallest pulley put on the alternator when you had it rebuilt.....smaller pulley will make it spin faster and charge faster...i have the smallest pulleys on all my alternators and it works great

What dia. is the smallest?

2-1/2" overall outside diameter, available in single or double belt style

I thought that was it.  Already using it.  Thanks.

[Nacho-RT74]

OK, sorry the delay... Here I go again

First, to be able to install the relays on cab, be sure you can get a ZERO reading on you ammeter once your batt is fully charged. ANY reading to - or + it means load going through ammeter and wiring from or to batt. A CONSTANT ON THIS is what we have to save as first step. Not a problem on an ocassionally reading or small readings.

NOTHING must be sourced from batt post on ammeter cars... NOOOOTHING.... this will give you an incorrect ammeter reading, like a CHARGE, where is not a charge but sourcing whatever you get hooked there and of course will get an unnecesary load on your ammeter and related terminals

It's NORMAL that you crank your engine and finally starts up get a charge reading by 2 to 5 minutes, depending on how much you cranked your starter motor and the alternator charge capacity. This means the batt is getting feeded back from alt untill get totally loaded with what lost on cranking process. Every time you get a discharge reading, you'll get later the same reading in opposite direction, untill get the batt balanced back.

NOTE: starter motor discharge load is never read by the ammeter, since starter motor is OUT of the ammeter play. Ammeter is not able to hold the starter load, thats the reason, but the recharge process will be read from alt to batt.

Now... since you bypassed or made the parallel path between ammeter and alt, you are able to FEED any relay inside your cab safelly. The amm stud is now a safer junction point than it was before. Allways considering a tight and clean assembly there.

Relays ( bosh kind ) and make the job without cut any wire

A bosch relay gets 4 or 5 ( depending which one you get ) pins to work. These are numbered:
30------Batt feed
85------Ground
86------Trigger from switch ( 85 and 86 can be reversed, not a problem )
87------Output already "relayed" or sourced from 30, once is triggered at 86
87a-----Output, also "relayed" or sourced from 30... BUT in rest position, so without being triggered at 86... this is not pressent on 4 pins relay.


what would you do to install hidded headlights relays into kick panel area without cut any wire ?

-Get relays Plugs and remove all the wires from them.

-Remove red and violet wires/terminals floor dimmer switch plug ( press terminals tabs from the front of plug and pull them off )

-untape wiring to be able to pull off these wires up to be able to hide relays into kick panel area. I think around 6"-8" should be enough

-Insert these wires/terminals into the relay plug 87 cavity ( one for the red which are high beams, other for the violet, which are lows beams ). Of course will need to open up the terminals tabs to get the click and fit terminals into the plug.

-Run wires between floor dimmer switch and 86 terminals on relay plug cavities. You can run any color you want, but just for correctness, get a red and a violet wires to replace this section up to floor dimmer switch like originally it was. Will need 4 female packard 56 terminals ( with the tab ) and the wires for this. NOW you can retape this floor dimmer switch harness section up to floor to correct look

-get cavity 85 to a grounded source around. I did it to the floor dimmer switch screws with an eyelet terminal and used a black wire, but you can make it anywhere around. Of course an extra female packard for the relay cavity.

-Get cavity 30 sourced from the ammeter BLACK side stud... the same you run the extra wire from alt. Same process: eyelet terminal, female packard 56 terminals, and of course a RED wire.

Of course, you'll need to splice the RED from amm stud and BLACK from ground sources into both relays plugs.

now you are done with hidden relays, on a safe place and stock look everywhere.

NOTE: I DID THIS HAVING HALOGEN HEADLIGHT SEALED BEAMS. With the alt upgrade and having regular headlights I don't think is a mandatory upgrade. Having halogen is mandatory, because the extra load these demand where stock headlight switch is not reallly able to hold up very well

[Nacho-RT74]

I made this relay upgrade for headlights and A/C-Heater blower system. 6 relays in total all around the dash area ( low and high beams, heater speed, low mid and high A/C speeds ). I don't have pics of every setup, but got to grab old pics from my oooold Nokia cell phone I made ( low quality pics ), showing this same job for the low and mid blower speeds. Headlights relay are exactly the same but on kick panel area. Heater speeds and High A/C speed are around steering column brackets.

First pic will show what it looks, totally stock look on everything. You can't say there is something diff than factory made.

Second pic... what it shows when I pull out the harness VOILA!! RELAYS FOR THIS SYSTEM, hidden on back of glove box liner. You can find original colors coming and going between relays and resistor block plug

3st pic... an special job I made to splice the positive source from the wire coming out from ammeter stud into both relays plugs, using bullet kind terminals and shrinking tube. I made this in case I want ( for whatever reason ) pull out this assembly without get removed this positive wire from ammeter. Ground is taken from A/C box holder bracket with an eyelet terminal, and relays are also attached to the A/C box stud for this bracket ( not shown ) to keep them in place. That's why one of the relays got the U cut on support provision, to slide it up into stud and tight them with the nut.

This plugs I found got provisions to get slided one into the other like one block assembly.

[Nacho-RT74]

here in a diagram, what I did for headlights relay upgrade

[Nacho-RT74]

Sorry! I have to edit the diagram! 86 and 87 needs to be reversed!

[Nacho-RT74]

ATTENTION!!!!! THIS IS THE CORRECT DIAGRAM... DESPITE THE OTHER ONE!!!!

86 terminal must be triggered from floor dimmer switch... 87 runs already relayed to bulkhead then to headlights!!! I made backwards the other one

THIS IS THE CORRECT ONE

[CRW-FK5]

Thanks for all the great, detailed information.  Greatly appreciated.