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loud ticking noise

Started by Tscott38, August 31, 2016, 06:51:16 AM

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Tscott38

Driving down the road the other day after driving for 10 minutes and up to temperature (going about 60) i notice a ticking noise from under the hood suddenly start.  Drove for a few more miles like this as I was on a highway in traffic trying to figure out what it was.  When I slowed down for a light, it stopped completely.  Starting it up 3 hours later and driving 15 miles home, it made no noises at all - perfectly normal.  3 days later I start it up (no noise) and drive about 5 miles and it appears again - this time louder and im only going 40. Put it in neutral and rev it lightly and it stops.  Then 30 seconds later it starts again.  Turn around and go home.  Its a loud tick, not a knock - from the top of engine I think.  I wasn't able to check the exhaust manifold for cracks but it really doesn't sound like that type of tick - could be wrong though.  Sounds more like its coming from the valves/rockers.  Couldn't tell if it was louder on one side or the other - just could hear it at both sides.   Its a 440 with the original manifolds and the engine does burn some oil - got some age on it, but still runs strong.  Its not abused, but driven regularly - sometimes hard.  I replaced the valve seals about 3000 miles ago to take care of an oil smoke at startup issue and the springs seemed OK - but I'm no expert there.    What could this be?

XH29N0G

Is your oil level OK? Sorry if I missed it in your post if you said.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

johnnycharger

Can you take a video of it and post it? Might help determine it.

Tscott38

Oil Level was checked after the second time and it was low - couldn't tell how much as it was hot, so I put in 2 quarts - didn't make a difference in the noise.   I doubt it was 2 quarts low, I do check it and don't drive it that much, but even if it was I've been there before on other cars and filing them up has always made any tick stop. 

72Charger72

Sounds like a lifter going bad or collapsed. Sticking when it gets hot.

RECHRGD

Quote from: 72Charger72 on August 31, 2016, 09:00:20 AM
Sounds like a lifter going bad or collapsed. Sticking when it gets hot.

:2thumbs:  beat me to it........
13.53 @ 105.32

Tscott38

In looking around for posts on collapse lifters I found this one ("Help - whats this noise" is the title) the noise I hear is exactly what I have- minus the exhaust leak.  The responders all identified two noises, as did I.  So, assuming I have a collapsed lifter, I need to replace it.  but how to identify which one is the next question. 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,119454.msg1482302.html#msg1482302

crj1968

there is a semi-decent chance you can free it up with some marvel mystery oil or similar- It has actually worked for me in the past

72Charger72

Its not that hard Im sure there are plenty of you tubes on the process. Basically take off valve covers....manually rotate crank shaft and watch lifters ,rockers and push rods.
Eventually you should see one with a gap....thats your culprit. Now Im not a mechanic by profession but I would recommend replacing them all if you have to replace one...
Also when you replace them visually look for any bent push rods..sometimes they go hand in hand. And I hate to say it it could also be signs of a sticking valve.
Which of course is quite a bit more expensive to repair.

johnnycharger

Quote from: Tscott38 on August 31, 2016, 09:46:40 AM
In looking around for posts on collapse lifters I found this one ("Help - whats this noise" is the title) the noise I hear is exactly what I have- minus the exhaust leak.  The responders all identified two noises, as did I.  So, assuming I have a collapsed lifter, I need to replace it.  but how to identify which one is the next question. 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,119454.msg1482302.html#msg1482302

Yup. That's my video. The noise on mine would come and go. I figured I would swap all of the lifters out at some point but for now I added a quart of lucas oil stabililizer and it has been quiet ever since. 

polywideblock

use a LARGE screwdriver put the pointy end on your valve cover the handle to your ear it will let you pinpoint which side it is  :Twocents:
try it you'll be surprised what you can hear


  and 71 GA4  383 magnum  SE

crj1968

Quote from: polywideblock on September 01, 2016, 03:23:30 AM
use a LARGE screwdriver put the pointy end on your valve cover the handle to your ear it will let you pinpoint which side it is  :Twocents:
try it you'll be surprised what you can hear

I thought the pointy end went in your ear?   :scratchchin:  :icon_smile_big:


polywideblock

that's only if you've got an itchy brain    :yesnod:


  and 71 GA4  383 magnum  SE

Tscott38

thanks for all the replies.  I havent driven it more than just in and out of the garage and the noise comes and goes - sometimes its quiet.     Im going to try the marvel mystery oil thing first as I need an oil change anyway.  then new lifters if it continues.  I'll search around here for comments on who makes the best lifters- don't want to do it more than once.   

68 RT

Flex plate/converter bolts may be loose.

John_Kunkel


Or a sticky fuel pump lever, they make a tick like a lifter.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Tscott38

update - pulled all lifters out - one has a spongy plunger - when pushed with a screwdriver, it yields pretty good when compared to the other 15.  two others are also a little soft - the rest looked good.  no wear on the bottoms of any of them that i could tell.   

ordered new set of topline hylift johnsons as per the sticky note post - still good info by the way.   

one more question - the lifters i took out were a hair shorter than the stock ones 1.828" vs. the 1.900" original dimension.   they also looked different than the stocks - a lower and much wider oil band. "YL 79" was written in the oil band area.  I was unable to find any info on this lifter.  could the shorter lifter have caused any damage?

Kern Dog

The hydraulic type lifter has had many slight changes with all of the different companies that have made them. The oil band seems to be in different places, sometimes they are real thin. Lunati used to make a solid lifter with an oil band so wide, it looked like a dumbbell that weight lifters use to work out.


READ about cam and lifter BREAK IN procedures!!!

You MUST do this to ensure long life.

PRH

I would have taken apart the spongy lifter.
All it would take to create this problem is a tiny piece of debris in the check valve area.

Clean all the pieces, reassemble..... Submerge in oil and pump it up with a pushrod. If it pumps ups easily and firm, should be good to go.
No break in worries that way.
Porter Racing Heads......Building and racing Mopars since 1980

birdsandbees

A tick that isn't there cold and appears hot, probably a lifter. If it's the other way around it's usually a cracked exhaust manifold that once expanded with heat seals itself again.

As PRH states... take the lifter apart. No rocket science. Push down on the center, pop the retainer and let the plunger come up. Turn it upside down and take it apart. Clean and then blow through the top of the inner unit. It should blow air in that direction. It shouldn't blow anything from the bottom up. Reassemble, put in a paint cap of oil and depress the plunger and let it fill. A few pumps to get rid of air and it should go hard again.
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

alfaitalia

"A tick that isn't there cold and appears hot, probably a lifter"

I find its more usually the other way around....especially on a car that's not been started regularly. Even when they have as the lifters get older they can take time to pressurise and stop clicking....they just get stickier with age and need to warm up before the warmer thinner oil can do its job......start virtually any 80/90s VW with 50k plus on the clockfrom cold......click, click, click for a couple of minutes, sometimes rather longer or its permanent!
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you !!

Tscott38

I replaced all the lifters.  The Followed breakin procedures like what's mentioned on this site too.  Still ticking after 20 minutes of running.   Confirmed it is not fuel pump rod as I removed it and started engine- still ticking.   It did get progressively quieter during the breakin.   Now I'm at a loss.   What else could it be?    The screwdriver test doesn't tell me much.   It still sound like it coming from under the valley tray.   

PRH

Is this a stock motor with a stock cam?

If the cam isn't stock, what is it?
Porter Racing Heads......Building and racing Mopars since 1980

Tscott38

I believe it's all stock.  Had it 22 years.   The old lifters showed no signs of unusual wear too.   

PRH

Does it sound like all/most of them are noisy, or only one or two?

If it's only one or two, might be a valve guide that's worn out.

When you had the rockers off, did you inspect the contact pad for excessive wear?
Same for the valve tips?

How's the oil pressure?

You said you replaced the seals........ Were the replacements the same style/type as what you took off?

There are a only so many things in the valvetrain that will cause ticking.

Porter Racing Heads......Building and racing Mopars since 1980