My build *UPDATE* 8/11/18

[green69rt]

I used it inside my trunk lid, inside the hood where you can't see and inside the A pillars.  Any place where I coulldn't get in to clean up.  Kind of a last resort thing.

[SmashingPunkFan]

I used it inside my trunk lid, inside the hood where you can't see and inside the A pillars.  Any place where I coulldn't get in to clean up.  Kind of a last resort thing.

There seems to be alot of places that survive outside pretty well, but behind panels have suffered. Like lower rockers between quarter meeting area.
I appreciate the info, I will definitely be getting some

[SmashingPunkFan]

Need info on how to attack this. With my floor pans, more heat and faster speeds overtook voids pretty well. But with the quarter area, aiming to be gentle with heat and excessive warping issues.  How to best avoid the voids in these areas?

The pictures are of the drivers side where the quarter meets the sail panel, pretty close to the fuel fill door area.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Need info on how to attack this. With my floor pans, more heat and faster speeds overtook voids pretty well. But with the quarter area, aiming to be gentle with heat and excessive warping issues.  How to best avoid the voids in these areas?

The pictures are of the drivers side where the quarter meets the sail panel, pretty close to the fuel fill door area.

I'm kinda stuck on this... its time consuming to keep welding areas that are heat sensitive and having them still produce voids.

I could really use some feedback guys

[Bronzedodge]

A few questions - what shield gas are you using?  Argon/CO2 mix?  It's hard to tell with the grinding, but the location of the joint is a bit tricky - top edge.  What size wire are you using?  Something around .024" would be best.  I'd try a different setting on some scrap material.   

[SmashingPunkFan]

A few questions - what shield gas are you using?  Argon/CO2 mix?  It's hard to tell with the grinding, but the location of the joint is a bit tricky - top edge.  What size wire are you using?  Something around .024" would be best.  I'd try a different setting on some scrap material.   

The gas I'm using is argon 75/25 C02
And I have .30 wire

I've had good results throughout my experience with other sections on the car, but this quarter is giving me hell.
If it were a flat floor pan, I'd pilot hole it and turn the heat up. No more voids, but this is sensitive

[green69rt]

Did you use the tack weld method? Put a bunch of tack welds about 4" apart, let it cool then another set of tacks between the first ones, keep doing that till the whole thing is welded.  Even with that method you have to be careful not to get too aggressive with the weld time.

[Troy]

I use .024 wire and still manage to get it too hot. I'm not an expert welder and I have only used .030 wire on frame rails - or parts that weld to frame rails. You need to go glacially slow. If you are butt welding it probably only takes a tap on the trigger to get it hot enough. Space them far apart. Repeat a few thousand times.

Troy

[hemi-hampton]

When you say voids do you mean pin holes in weld or just spots with not enough weld? I go over these pin holes or voids with more weld. From what I can see in this pic of yours you did not have enough heat because the spot weld is balled up high on top of the metal instead of flat resulting in less penetration meaning weaker weld. Meaning harder to grind & harder grinding means more unwanted heat. If your worried about excessive heat, weld it like you did but with more heat, BUT, keep a blowgun plugged in on end of your air hose & cool each little spot weld with cool air after welding. It's slow moving & time consuming but works. LEON.

[Bronzedodge]

I'd recommend going to smaller wire.  Cut up some scrap and do a bit of practice, .024 does have a different feel.  The larger the wire, the more heat you will need.  Some folks cool the welds immediately with a damp cloth or compressed air.   

[SmashingPunkFan]

I'd recommend going to smaller wire.  Cut up some scrap and do a bit of practice, .024 does have a different feel.  The larger the wire, the more heat you will need.  Some folks cool the welds immediately with a damp cloth or compressed air.   

Good info. I have used .30 for the last 5 years, its all I had. I will switch to some smaller wire and give it a shot  thanks guys

[SmashingPunkFan]

https://youtu.be/U7fysrlNStc

New video is up.

[SmashingPunkFan]

A whole new world of problems when I dropped my old suspension.
Any feedback? 😀 I'm actually quite optimistic about this situation, just wanna tackle it soon!

BTW the worst picture is of the passenger side rear k member bolt hole. The fronts of both sides look good, but the drivers side has a small tear in the metal, but still pretty solid.

[JB400]

build you a template off of the k member so you can get your bolt pattern correct, and just weld it back in.  Option b is to replace frame rails.

[SmashingPunkFan]

build you a template off of the k member so you can get your bolt pattern correct, and just weld it back in.  Option b is to replace frame rails.

Cool, cool. Do you by chance have one of the measuring diagrams so I can plumb everything before moving forward?

[SmashingPunkFan]

 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,116416.0/all.html

Any thoughts on this?
Would it be bad if I did this same style repair, but only a foot or so in length? Could the welds support this much pressure?

Need some feedback 😃

[JB400]

build you a template off of the k member so you can get your bolt pattern correct, and just weld it back in.  Option b is to replace frame rails.

Cool, cool. Do you by chance have one of the measuring diagrams so I can plumb everything before moving forward?

Unfortunately,no I do not.  Just lay your k member on a large piece of cardboard, mark out your holes, cut it out, and then bolt your template up to your car, to get the right bolt hole pattern.

[SmashingPunkFan]

build you a template off of the k member so you can get your bolt pattern correct, and just weld it back in.  Option b is to replace frame rails.

Cool, cool. Do you by chance have one of the measuring diagrams so I can plumb everything before moving forward?

Unfortunately,no I do not.  Just lay your k member on a large piece of cardboard, mark out your holes, cut it out, and then bolt your template up to your car, to get the right bolt hole pattern.

I took the leap today...

[hemi-hampton]

I've been gone for awhile. any updates LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

I've been gone for awhile. any updates LEON.

Got part of it welded back in

[SmashingPunkFan]

Not a big fan of fluxcore. It welds appear to be flakey until you start grinding on it... Smh.
I know I got it hot enough, I accidentally burned through the frame and new material twice.

[hemi-hampton]

Looks like fun. LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Made progress. Passenger side is complete, and ready for new suspension.

[hemi-hampton]

Looks good, do you have to do the same thing to the other side. LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Looks good, do you have to do the same thing to the other side. LEON.

Thank you sir.
I believe so, it has some similar tears. But they're not nearly as rough as the passenger side was.

Think there's any chance I could just weld it back up as is?