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Trying to figure out this kickdown / throttle linkage

Started by Canadian1968, August 24, 2016, 07:24:19 PM

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Canadian1968

I know this topic has been beaten to death . but I am kinda stupid and nees to ask it in my own words  :hah:
so I have an original 440 equiped 68 r/t. I have an edelbrock performer intake installed. I adjusted low reverse and kickdown screws to stock specs.  I can adjust the stock linkage so that at wot the linkage is at or close to full rear ward movement.  But if I adjust the slotted rod to carb out or longer the tranny seem to slip in between 1-2 shifts or it just shifting late .regardless its hard to get it to shift into 3rd in the area I am testing . If I shorten the rod the shifts get very close together.


so what exactly is the problem . Is it the link from carb to pivot point by the fire wall  or the link from pivot point down to the transmission ?

ohhhh and a side note. Sometimes the car won't start in park. Nothing when I turn the key. If put it in neutral fires right up then I can put it right back in park and it start over and over no problem ?  Obviously my park/ neutral switch ? but what exactly is wrong with it ?

thanks

RallyeMike

Before the safety swithc, I would first look at the shift linkage to make sure its sitting firmly in the "park" detent. This might also help with the slippy shift problem.

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crj1968

Yeah, first make sure when you put it in park it is actually going all the way into park- lower lever forward.

As for the kickdown- Longer rod will hold gears longer and shorter will be mushy and shift too soon.

As for the slipping between 1-2 maybe you are actually slipping.

Not sure I understand this statement;  "I adjusted low reverse and kickdown screws to stock specs."  

First get your shifter linkage correct. Where PARK is PARK;
Then get your throttle cable correct to be WOT at pedal to floor (remove kickdown to make sure), then adjust your kickdown linkage so it does not impede WOT but is  fully or close to pushing tranny "kickdown" lever all the way back at WOT.





Canadian1968

by scRees . I mean I adjusted the low reverse and kickdown bands by setting the adjusting screws 2 turns out

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: Canadian1968 on August 25, 2016, 05:11:14 AM
by scRees . I mean I adjusted the low reverse and kickdown bands by setting the adjusting screws 2 turns out

Which lever length is on your front band? Did you torque the adjuster before lossening it? Torque to 72 inch lbs before backing off. If you did torque it, try 1 3/4 turns out.

John_Kunkel

Quote from: Canadian1968 on August 24, 2016, 07:24:19 PM
I know this topic has been beaten to death . but I am kinda stupid and nees to ask it in my own words  :hah:
so I have an original 440 equiped 68 r/t. I have an edelbrock performer intake installed.

Stock carb on that Edelbrock intake manifold?
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Canadian1968

its got a holley 3310s (750 vac 2nds). I will post a pic of the linkage . and carb bracket when  I get home tonight

John_Kunkel


The Holley carb needs the correct Mopar throttle lever extension (P/N 20-7) in order for the linkage to work correctly.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-7
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Canadian1968

sorry car was getting aligned

Canadian1968


John_Kunkel

That's the correct throttle lever extension. Lengthening the top rod makes shifts later and firmer, shortening the rod makes shifts earlier and softer. Sometimes a little adjustment makes a noticeable difference, sometimes not, especially if there are mismatched parts in the linkage.

The failure to consistently start in Park or Neutral is usually a shift linkage problem, could be a simple linkage adjustment is needed or, more commonly, the plastic bushings in the pivots are worn or missing which allows slop in the linkage.
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Canadian1968

Got some drive time .  The car shift from 1-2 is not bad maybe a bit to quick. but it has a hard time getting into 3rd.  keep steady pressure on accEl and just wont seem to get into 3rd or flip flop between 2nd 3rd. if I let off the throttle a bit it will hit 3rd?  If I hit the gas off the line ( ,not wot) It will take off and then seems like slips in first with rpms arouND 2500 3000.

I can't quite get full travel of the kickdown without slightly starting down ward movement on the linkage ? would that be ok ?

John_Kunkel


At light throttle, the 1-2 shift should occur at less than 15 mph....many think this is too early but it's factory spec. Failure to shift 2-3 without lifting the throttle and/or flipping between 2 and 3 could be linkage adjustment; from the look of the un-rusted threads on your top rod, you need to shorten the rod.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Canadian1968

ok will give it a shot.  I keep focusing on lever at Wot , ad the slack I still have left in the linkage when throttle is back all the way. Which makes me think I need to make it longer. I will try shorter and see what I get !

John_Kunkel


One of the oldest myths in the Mopar world is the belief that the trans lever must be full back at WOT...it doesn't. As long as the trans will kick down from 3-2 at 40 mph and WOT you're OK.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.