Daytona headlight wiring harness ???

[Daytona R/T SE]

Daytona headlight wiring harnesses...

Are they separate from the engine wiring harness ?

Are the vacuum hoses integrated into the headlight harness, or are they separate ?

Is the front turn signal wiring part of the headlight harness ?

Who makes a reproduction, and where do I get it?

And...

By the way...

Year One's website is indecipherable ! 

[DAY CLONA]

Daytona headlight wiring harnesses...

Are they separate from the engine wiring harness ?

Are the vacuum hoses integrated into the headlight harness, or are they separate ?

Is the front turn signal wiring part of the headlight harness ?

Who makes a reproduction, and where do I get it?

And...

By the way...

Year One's website is indecipherable !  

The Engine wiring harness has nothing to do with the headlite harness

The MAIN FORWARD LIGHT HARNESS is what you need, along with the NOSECONE harness, the harness is seperated with a harness bulkhead connector which is located right behind the battery on the side firewall, the vacuum harness is tape/heat sealed banded to these two harnesses,
Only the vacuum harness is available repro from MegaParts and other vendors, what I would do is use the existing CHARGER FORWARD LIGHT HARNESS, cut it where it meets at the center of the battery along the side firewall, now you can either purchase a repro grey multi connection bulkhead connector, or if you have an old Mopar parts car or parts harnesses laying around the drivers kick panel bulkhead connector for the rear light harness is an ideal candidate to supply all the terminals you need (6 cavity) remove all the spade connectors and re-crimp onto your cut FORWARD LIGHT HARNESS, you'll need to lengthen the remaining forward section of the headlight harness that you cut off by about 2 ft, this will make you the forward nosecone WIRING harness that you can tape/heat band to the FORWARD NOSE CONE VACUUM HARNESS and you can attach the other end of the grey bulkhead connector to this harnesss so as to join it with the MAIN FORWARD WIRING HARNESS, the MAIN VACUUM HARNESS has two main lines going out to the FORWARD VACUUM NOSECONE HARNESS that go over the top of the radiator yoke held by a strap, at this point the VACUUM HARNESS disconnects are located, basically hose line splices

regarding the turn signals, you just need to lengthen the leads on the stock Charger harness, that you used to create the NOSECONE WIRING HARNESS  

Mike

I'll attach some pics as I find them

[Mopar Nut]

https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/hu259b

Save 30% until 7/1/16 to 7/4/16 midnight Monday.

Use Code: J4C16 or BBQ16

[DAY CLONA]

https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/hu259b

Save 30% until 7/1/16 to 7/4/16 midnight Monday.

Use Code: J4C16 or BBQ16

Nice to know that's finally available!


Now the OP needs this as well, MegaParts, YO, etc, etc

[DAY CLONA]

You'll also need either a good original or repro vacuum reserv canister for under the battery tray, Charger Specialties has these

[DAY CLONA]

And to secure the Vacuum harness as it goes over the radiator yoke (if you want originality?) you need this strap, IIRC it's actually a GM piece?


Doug Shellinger at DSAC has these if IIRC

[DAY CLONA]

You'll need this also if missing or your instrument cluster/car is a 1970



68-69 headlight switch ...Classic Ind, YO, MegaParts, etc, etc

[Mopar Nut]

https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/hu259b

Save 30% until 7/1/16 to 7/4/16 midnight Monday.

Use Code: J4C16 or BBQ16

Nice to know that's finally available!


Now the OP needs this as well, MegaParts, YO, etc, etc

Classic Industries

[Daytona R/T SE]

Thanks, everyone. 

You've all been a big help.

( Although I still can't seem to find my way around year one's website. )

[DAY CLONA]

more......

[FJMG]

So that last pic brings a question to mind.......
On hemi-auto daytonas, they came with trans coolers and one of the cooler lines already goes in the same location as the daytona vac lines AND already has one of the holes shown above where the cooler line was secured with a screw through a metal strap, like the r/t's.
Soooo..... Did creative remove the cooler line screw and drill one more hole, trap the cooler line along with the h/l vac lines using plastic strap shown above and leave the screw out?