My disk brake swap with susp. and steering upgrade. UPDATE 7/21/16 pg. 7

[lukedukem]

The rubber bands go in the garbage, the copper washers go to the banjo heads to the hose...one on each side of each assembly so 4 used on front end. the bolts and plates hold the caliper to the slider. 

It's the plate orientation I'm having issues with.

Luke

[lukedukem]

Something is wrong.. Those are the earlier calipers... Pin style. Those plates aren't used with those calipers.

There is no pin to hold them on. Plates and a hole in the bracket for them

Luke

[Derwud]

[lukedukem]

My hero

Luke

[b5blue]

The tabs on the pads need to fit snug. Okay to tap or bend some.

[lukedukem]

ok guys I have all my brake lines installed and tight. I have my adapter for my booster installed also, i am using my drum booster with this disk MC, dr. diff recommended me tossing the booster and go manual, but I'm gonna give this a try.
I am now ready to blench bleed the MC, but before I do I have a question. if I bench bleed this thing and install it, do I need to be ready to bleed the whole system. with fathers day tomorrow I can get it bench bled today but it would be Monday night or later before I can bleed the whole system.

[lukedukem]

next is a torsion bar question. they are labeled L and R, so left(L) is driver side, cause when your sitting in the car your left. right, lol

and I know from cdr's earlier post to wait till the car's ride height is done before tightening the LCA and UCA bolts up. for now they are to be finger tight.
in the pics of my LCA I have this gap, now I have that nut on the shaft finger tight. will installing the torsion bars close this gap. what should I do? pics...

Luke

[cdr]

driver is left, put it together put a little grease in the hex end for the Tbar.

[lukedukem]

Ok, I got the T bars in and ran the adjuster bolts up about halfway or so. I put on my tires and let the car down and pushed down the fenders to help it settle out.  I'm off by 3/4 of an inch. Not bad. I notice the passenger side got tougher to turn quicker than the driver side, and that is the side that's higher. I need to get the sway bar done and brake stuff. I'll post pics when I can. I'm on my phone

Luke

[b5blue]

It helps settle it if you can roll the car back and forward about 5 feet.

[lukedukem]

It helps settle it if you can roll the car back and forward about 5 feet.

I should be able to manage that. I'll use some blocks of wood to help stop it

Luke

[green69rt]

i cant wait to drive it to feel the improvements. but more questions first. lol

I put on the calipers last night and plumbed them. my question is in the second pic, where and how does all that stuff go. i realize the bolts and washers hold it on, but the rubber band things and not sure which way the other stuff goes. FSM wasn't much help on this. anyone with this set up help, maybe shoot a pic. thanks.

Luke

The purpose of those rubber bands is to take up the last little bit of slack between the caliper/shoes and the caliper bracket.  They wrap around the front of the bracket before the caliper gets mounted so that they cushion the caliper seating against the bracket.  One goes on each bracket, usually around the front.  Lots of guys leave them out.  They are usually gone on an old installation because the rubber gets hard and they break up and fall off.  If you leave them off then when you apply the brake the shoes grab the disc (good thing) but the caliper may move a few thousands inside the bracket and move forward striking the bracket.  What you get is a "clack".  And it may happen every time you apply the brake.  Happened to me. It's a real bugger to diagnose.  Eventually the rubber breaks down and falls off but by that time enough brake dust, etc has built up to replace the rubber.   The FSM doesn't show them but a lot of brake kits show them in the little installation instruction sheet that comes with the shoes.

[b5blue]

That may be the clunk I'm hearing after my disk swap? 

[lukedukem]

i cant wait to drive it to feel the improvements. but more questions first. lol

I put on the calipers last night and plumbed them. my question is in the second pic, where and how does all that stuff go. i realize the bolts and washers hold it on, but the rubber band things and not sure which way the other stuff goes. FSM wasn't much help on this. anyone with this set up help, maybe shoot a pic. thanks.

Luke

The purpose of those rubber bands is to take up the last little bit of slack between the caliper/shoes and the caliper bracket.  They wrap around the front of the bracket before the caliper gets mounted so that they cushion the caliper seating against the bracket.  One goes on each bracket, usually around the front.  Lots of guys leave them out.  They are usually gone on an old installation because the rubber gets hard and they break up and fall off.  If you leave them off then when you apply the brake the shoes grab the disc (good thing) but the caliper may move a few thousands inside the bracket and move forward striking the bracket.  What you get is a "clack".  And it may happen every time you apply the brake.  Happened to me. It's a real bugger to diagnose.  Eventually the rubber breaks down and falls off but by that time enough brake dust, etc has built up to replace the rubber.   The FSM doesn't show them but a lot of brake kits show them in the little installation instruction sheet that comes with the shoes.

I didn't get instructions with the kit from dr. Diff, but don't need it with you guys. Thanks

Luke

[lukedukem]

what do you think i should do with the old parts i have, do you think any one would want them. they are the drum spindles, hub assemblies, factory sway bar, the tie rod sleeves. i think that's about it.

Luke

[funknut]

I'd be interested in the front hubs.

[lukedukem]

I'd be interested in the front hubs.

Sure thing, i need to clean up and take inventory, then i will send you a PM. i will probably list the other stuff here so see if anyone wants it.

Luke

[lukedukem]

OK, so i had issues installing the hotchkis sway bar. i couldnt get the last bushing and washer on or the nut, so i had to use a clamp. i thought maybe i had it wrong but either frown face or smiley face it was a biotch. but after using the clamp it worked. i also am adjusting the ride height as well. is it OK to just go off the fender to ground or is it better to do like the FSM and use measurement from LCA to ground. here I'm at 27" from ground to center of fender at the lip.

Luke

I just realized, that LCA bumper is not right is it

[303 Mopar]

The sway bar with new thick bushings is a tight fit to first get it on, but make sure you really wrench them down tight.  I measure from level ground to fender lip, but you may get a more "exact" measurement the FSM way.  I adjusted mine so the fender is just a little lower than the top of the tire, but its whatever your preference is since its your car. Don't forget to adjust with wheels off the ground - lower and bounce - drive - remeasure - adjust and repeat. 

[lukedukem]

i got my sway bar all buttoned up last night but I'm not sure how tight to get the end links, i started to get them tight and it started to mushroom out the bottom bushing (circled in blue in first pic). how tight did you guys go with these nuts.

i also got my MC bench bled and installed. wasn't bad, i think i will wait till Saturday to bleed the whole car, so i can get it all in one day, and not try to rush it tonight.

I'm getting new tires today too (i just bought these other ones last year,  ,) I'm going with 245/60 all around, i like being able to rotate. plus i didn't like the looks of the 255/70, it was just too tall for the rear. i thought about staying with the 225/70 up front and added two to the rear, but they aren't wide enough, i will sell these to recoup some of the money. after i get the tires on i can finish getting the ride height adjusted and then its alignment time. i still need to find a place i trust to do that, maybe the dealer since i know the guys that work there.

Luke

[lukedukem]

Ok, I have my ride height adjusted to where I want. Do I need to adjust anything else or just tighten up the UCA bolts and lca bolt?
And do I need the car on the ground when I tighten them, or off.
How far can I drive with the alignment out. The shop is 15 miles from me.

Luke

[cdr]

Ok, I have my ride height adjusted to where I want. Do I need to adjust anything else or just tighten up the UCA bolts and lca bolt?
And do I need the car on the ground when I tighten them, or off.
How far can I drive with the alignment out. The shop is 15 miles from me.

Luke

car needs to be sitting on the wheels,not jacked up then tighten the control arms, set the toe with a tape measure so you can drive it.

[b5blue]

Everything tight before drive!

[lukedukem]

Thanks a bunch guys. 

I'm nervous about this all going good.

What about the end links on the sway bar. How tight did those who have hotchkis get theirs

Luke

[cdr]

Thanks a bunch guys. 

I'm nervous about this all going good.

What about the end links on the sway bar. How tight did those who have hotchkis get theirs

Luke

I tighten them so they just start to compress the bushings, not to tight,it can cause them to split.