'69 Charger Ammeter Bypass Revisted

[Skull-1]

Okay folks...  Where I left you last I had managed to bypass my ammeter.   In effect the black and red wires are now fused together and shrink wrapped.   However, they are still INSIDE THE DASH.

Is it safer (or even possible) to route these wires to the engine compartment instead of the dash?    Is there still a fire risk here?    If these wires decide to torch off won't they be just as dangerous on the firewall as in the cabin?   I have visions of an engine compartment fire in my head.  Not pretty.

Thoughts?

[hemi68charger]

Skull...

I did the very same thing on my 69 Daytona after I got the dash fixed up by redlineautogauges.com ( amp-2-volt conversion ). I connected the two leads of the original amp gauge wires, put heat shrink on them then took a small heater hose with a split in it and slipped the junction area of the amp harness into it.. It ain't going to be touching anything metal....

[Skull-1]

Skull...

I did the very same thing on my 69 Daytona after I got the dash fixed up by redlineautogauges.com ( amp-2-volt conversion ). I connected the two leads of the original amp gauge wires, put heat shrink on them then took a small heater hose with a split in it and slipped the junction area of the amp harness into it.. It ain't going to be touching anything metal....

Thanks buddy.   

[green69rt]

That helps with the connection at the amp meter (now gone in your case) but it doesn't fix the problem of the bulkhead connector overheating.  To solve it all, you really need to do the engine compartment fix.  Have you seen Nacho's talk about the problem? (link below.)

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

Sorry, just reread Nacho's thread and it keeps the ammeter BUT his points about the bulkhead connector still apply because all you did is bypass the ammeter, all the current is still going thru the bulkhead connector.  There was a thread on here about how to rewire the engine bay, pretty simple.  I can't find it now.

[Nacho-RT74]

Sorry, just reread Nacho's thread and it keeps the ammeter BUT his points about the bulkhead connector still apply because all you did is bypass the ammeter, all the current is still going thru the bulkhead connector. 

sure because I LIKE ammeters LOL

the problem is the low alt output alts from factory, not the ammeter itself

as I have mentioned up to infinitum... the ammeter IS NOT the real problem, is the alternator... then the bulkhead next... BUT sometimes on some cases, even the weak packard terminals can hold the regular car load on a low equipped car still with 1000 amps alt!

[Nacho-RT74]

Okay folks...  Where I left you last I had managed to bypass my ammeter.   In effect the black and red wires are now fused together and shrink wrapped.   However, they are still INSIDE THE DASH.

and is the only way to do it because the MAIN splice is into the underdash harness. You can't sway that!!!

[HeavyFuel]

I performed this super easy bypass.  (credit to Rick Ehrenberg)


Take some load off the ammeter circuit, by running a length of heavy wire(10 or 12 gauge, depending on alternator capabilities), right from the alternator output stud to the starter relay stud. Use a short length of fusible link wire, 2 numbers smaller, at the starter relay end. This method basically disables the ammeter, you should install a voltmeter.

[darbgnik]

I performed this super easy bypass.  (credit to Rick Ehrenberg)


Take some load off the ammeter circuit, by running a length of heavy wire(10 or 12 gauge, depending on alternator capabilities), right from the alternator output stud to the starter relay stud. Use a short length of fusible link wire, 2 numbers smaller, at the starter relay end. This method basically disables the ammeter, you should install a voltmeter.

I did this as well.... plus I also ran a new wire to the ammeter location, through a grommet in the firewall, and removed the one through the bulkhead. I fused that one, but may change it again, as I hate the visible fuse holder near the fire wall......
Haven't found a good fusible link seller either.....

[HeavyFuel]

I performed this super easy bypass.  (credit to Rick Ehrenberg)


Take some load off the ammeter circuit, by running a length of heavy wire(10 or 12 gauge, depending on alternator capabilities), right from the alternator output stud to the starter relay stud. Use a short length of fusible link wire, 2 numbers smaller, at the starter relay end. This method basically disables the ammeter, you should install a voltmeter.

Haven't found a good fusible link seller either.....

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/lighting---electrical-16777/fuses-16615/fusible-link--universal--17516/12af23bde667

[69wannabe]

I did the bulkhead bypass and ran an 8 gauge wire with a 100 amp maxi fuse from the battery to the alternator and ran the 8 gauge wire from the starter relay 12 volt post into the inside to power the inside of the car with an 40 or 50 amp maxi fuse in that circuit. Let redline do the volt meter conversion on the ammeter and so far so good. Pete from NH used to be on here alot and was very good with advise on this subject. Basically the wire coming from the ammeter going out to the alternator can be clipped off at the bulkhead and done away with. I done mine a few years ago and don't remember every detail but what he told me to do seemed to work well.... I found my message from pete and you run a 8 gauge wire from battery voltage with a 40 or 50 amp maxi fuse and hook it to the black wire and do away with the red wire all together that was coming through the bulkhead and going to the ammeter.....

[Skull-1]

So, what you guys are saying I should do next is take the main wire that runs through the center of the bulkhead connector and send it in via a dedicated hole drilled out for that purpose?

[krops cars]

I ran a one wire alternator. Then ran wire from battery to maxi fuse to alternator. Then left amp gauge hooked up normally.

[Skull-1]

I ran a one wire alternator. Then ran wire from battery to maxi fuse to alternator. Then left amp gauge hooked up normally.

Any photos of that?

My Ammeter is now a Voltmeter.    Useless info in my opinion.   I preferred the Ammeter.

[krops cars]

No photos. I do have a pic of the alternator on the engine. I have a battery with top post and side post. I hooked maxi fuse holder up to the side post from there I went through the k frame to the one wire hook up. It looks cleaner. Then I was able to remove my regulator and all the wiring.

[misty440]

Question, I am looking into the head light harness relay upgrade and going to so this ammeter bypass as well, while inspecting the bulkhead I found that my fuseable likk was not connected to the starter relay, I inspected it and it had started to melt at the O ring terminal, I am wondering what issues would this have caused not closing the loop in this circuit? I have been battling gremlins in my dash forever as my gauges have never worked, I have verified that all gauges do work and my dash voltage regulator is giving out the 5 volts, could this be adding to my dash issue?
Thanks
Chris

[pipeliner]

Okay folks...  Where I left you last I had managed to bypass my ammeter.   In effect the black and red wires are now fused together and shrink wrapped.   However, they are still INSIDE THE DASH.

and is the only way to do it because the MAIN splice is into the underdash harness. You can't sway that!!!

Did your upgrade a few years and it's still working great. New M&H Harness, 130 amp Tuff Stuff Alternator, Dakota Gauges so I wired the black and red ammeter together. Used a 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay. Dual fans and all of the electrical goodies. I can't remember if I used a fuseable link or not lol. I'll have to look. Was I supposed to?

[472 R/T SE]

A big problem is some of us go with a bigger or even new alternator but yet still run the 50 year old wiring. 

[RTSE440]

Just wondering if M&H reproduction harnesses corrected this issue or did they just rewire it as a factory stuff up

[b5blue]

  I run a 120AMP Denso ALT. with New M&H harness front to back, Fleet upgrade with fused 8GA. wire and control relays to shed power draw to ignition/A/C and electric cooling fan. (Keeps the draw out of the column ignition switch.) New OER ALT. gauge rated a 60AMP unlike original. Nothing bypassed.
  Only thing of caution is a highly discharged battery must not be recharged running car's charging system, really NO car ever should!