Dumb question on disconnecting tranny from motor

[Ponch ®]

Is the transmission (727) attached onto the engine (360) only by the bolts around the case, or are there more bolts inside the tranny that I need undo? How do I get to them?

[bull]

Is the transmission (727) attached onto the engine (360) only by the bolts around the case, or are there more bolts inside the tranny that I need undo? How do I get to them?

It's been a while since I've worked on an auto trans in a car but in all the trucks and buses I've worked on the torque convertor (or spring coupler) sits between the engine and trans., bolted to the flywheel. It can be left there if you're not replacing it or unbolted and left on the trans if you are. In cars they aren't very heavy but of course in trucks and buses you don't want to have to lift them so you slide the trans out just enough to bar the engine over and remove all the bolts or nuts holding it to the flywheel, then slide it out with the transmission. So the answer is yes and no. Your torque convertor won't be light because it's full of fluid but it's still managable by comparison. Just don't drop it on your foot, it'll leave a mark.

[Ponch ®]

Is the transmission (727) attached onto the engine (360) only by the bolts around the case, or are there more bolts inside the tranny that I need undo? How do I get to them?

It's been a while since I've worked on an auto trans in a car but in all the trucks and buses I've worked on the torque convertor (or spring coupler) sits between the engine and trans., bolted to the flywheel. It can be left there if you're not replacing it or unbolted and left on the trans if you are. In cars they aren't very heavy but of course in trucks and buses you don't want to have to lift them so you slide the trans out just enough to bar the engine over and remove all the bolts or nuts holding it to the flywheel, then slide it out with the transmission. So the answer is yes and no. Your torque convertor won't be light because it's full of fluid but it's still managable by comparison. Just don't drop it on your foot, it'll leave a mark.

so what youre saying is that the engine and tranny CAN be separated without having to undo them? Where do the TC/flywheel stay in that situation - tranny or motor?

I'm only taking the motor, all the tranny stuff (TC, flywheel) is staying.

[Nacho-RT74]

you need separate flywheel from torque converter first. Flywheel will be on engine for a whlie torque converter will be on tranny. To make this you need to remove the torque converter cover from tranny ( 4 7/16" bolts ) and remove 4 9/16" from flywheel and torque converter( I think they are 9/16" ) one at a time spinning 1/4  turn engine with starter motor or manually with a socket and rachet from damper bolt.

make a mark between flywheel and torque converter to be sure bolt on same place and keep balance.

after that, remove starter motor, remove tranny/carb link ( kickdown link ), put a jack on tranny hump to keep it in place, separate block from tranny housing and everything is ready to remove engine.

You can remove engine/tranny assembly also what it could be maybe easier if you have enough raised the car to lets the tranny tail fall

you can also remove the TC attached to engine/flywheel, but you can damage the front tranny seal, and also needs more room on front to get room to release TC from the tranny housing.

[Ponch ®]

that doesnt sound too bad...tho the "floor jack under the tranny" seems to be the easier approach.

Should I expect a bunch of fluid to spill when I ubolt the TC cover?

[GreenMachine]

You won't have any spill out from the converter, but you need to drain the pan so it won't spill from the dipstick hole. Also the tail shaft will have about a pint in it and will spill when tilted aft, so either put a yoke in it or ziptie a plastic bag around it.

[73dodge]

I am not sure about the 727's but the 904 in my old 318 had a small drain plug in the torque converter to drain the fluid. I also think that there is a flex plate bolted from the crank to the torque converter.

[Nacho-RT74]

I have done on ALL THE WAYS, and I have no idea why ppl is saying something about drain fluid.
- ISN' TRUE you need to drain anykind of fluid beside water from cooling system, but that will hapen once you disconect radiator hoses.
-no one fluid will be released once you undo the TC converter cover. That cover is not a seal, is just a dust cover.
-Im talking about separate flywheek from TC because will be easier to separate engine from tranny, without separate far away between them. You won't need to have room on front once you separate flywheel from TC. With just an inch gap will be enough to just lift up the engine. If you keep TC joined to engine, then will need around  6 or 7 inches gap to release the TC from tranny housing what is uncomfoirtable to make all movements at same time you lift up the engine. If you keep TC converter on engine you can also damage front seal and also probably a big tranny oil leak by seal and TC itself. With TC on tranny, oil will keeps in place.

[TylerCharger69]

If your goal is to leave the torque converter in the tranny....then there is no need to drain the fluid.   There are 4 fine threaded bolts that bolt the flex plate to the TC.  The bolt pattern isn't perfect, so it can only bolt back one way, meaning  the bolts are not the exact same distances from each other.  I learned this because once...when I went to put those bolts back on.   I bolted one....turned the engine 1/4 turn....and the next hole didn't line up,  so....out came the first bolt again, and I had to turn the torque converter to where they lined up.   You can turn the engine to where you can see and have access to two  of the bolts.  When you see that two are lined up...then you're okay....it's easier to just make a mark on the TC  and the flexplate to make life easier...Oh....and use loctite on those bolts when you reassemble too!!!

[Bandit72]

If your goal is to leave the torque converter in the tranny....then there is no need to drain the fluid.   There are 4 fine threaded bolts that bolt the flex plate to the TC.  The bolt pattern isn't perfect, so it can only bolt back one way, meaning  the bolts are not the exact same distances from each other.  I learned this because once...when I went to put those bolts back on.   I bolted one....turned the engine 1/4 turn....and the next hole didn't line up,  so....out came the first bolt again, and I had to turn the torque converter to where they lined up.   You can turn the engine to where you can see and have access to two  of the bolts.  When you see that two are lined up...then you're okay....it's easier to just make a mark on the TC  and the flexplate to make life easier...Oh....and use loctite on those bolts when you reassemble too!!!

that and there is at least one way you can put it where 3 bolts line up and the 4th one does not...man that made me mad 


later 

[TylerCharger69]

lol...yeah...that's a real kick to the yam bags right there....lol

[MassCharger73]

 

[Duey]

Ponch, you definitely want to decouple the flex-plate and the converter.  Otherwise you risk damaging the convertor pump or seals on the input spline of the convertor when you pull the engine away from the transmission.

Cheers,
Duey

[MassCharger73]

Duey brings up a very good point to keep in mind on the reinstallation of the motor to a tranny. Care must be taken to align the convertor to the pump in the trans. The notches on the convertor shaft must be aligned with the pump. Heres another flashback to my youth, using the mounting bolts to pull the convertor into the transmission and breaking the pump. Ofcourse I didn't know this until after everything was done and the car wouldn't move.

[Duey]

Yup, the converter casing should slide smoothly onto the tranny input shaft with very little if any resistance and seat fully.  I'm swapping convertors in a few weeks and the last hting I want to do is toast a $500 converter! 

Cheers,
Duey