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no spark on new plugs

Started by tucknroll, November 12, 2015, 07:45:11 PM

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tucknroll

I'm having trouble. My 69 383 2 barrel  charger is running like crap. I pulled each wire off the distributor  one at a time to see if the engine  changes and 4 of them are not doing anything. New plugs, same thing. I guess I'm running  on 4 plugs. Timing seems good and tried new points and nothing changes. The wires at the bulkhead  connector are not great looking. Could new terminals help? Also would going to electronic  ignition  maybe help? Thanks

XH29N0G

First, I noticed a significant difference going to an electronic MSD system from points in terms of how fast it started.  I believe the other electronic systems may be similar.  That may be worth considering. 

That said, I used points up until about 5 years ago and they worked well.  I assume with the points you are able to check dwell in addition to gap and that you have a good condenser, rotor, distributor and plug wires.  Someone else will be able to help diagnose more precisely.  My understanding is that as long as you have the right voltage to the coil that the distributor assembly will do the rest, but I may be wrong.



Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

tucknroll

I had a guy that knows his stuff do the points and all that so I guess their good. Could corroded  wires be the cause?

myk

What is the condition of the cap, plug wires?  I don't think corroded bulkhead wiring would cause running issues; either your car would run or it wouldn't altogether...
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tucknroll


XH29N0G

In addition to checking the idle quality by pulling wires to the plugs, have you checked for spark to each of the plugs? 

If the wires, cap, points etc... are new, and presumably good and set right, then I would assume they are OK, but checking for spark at the plugs either by putting a spare plug into the end of the wires, grounding it, and seeing if it sparks, or by putting a phillips into it and seeing if the spark will jump from that to the block will tell you whether or not you have spark to each of the plugs. 

 
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

tucknroll

I will try that tomorrow. Thanks. But wouldn't electronic  ignition  do away with points and timing issues? That might help right?

XH29N0G

electronic ignition would still need to set timing.  You would also need to set the advance curve, but people here can advise/help with that.  

The electronic ignition would do away with points, and I believe give a better spark.  

I just think you want to confirm that the rough idle is due to not firing.    You should be able to smooth it with a points ignition too.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

myk

The points system should work no matter what.  Upgrading to electronic is an entirely different matter.  If you want to upgrade to electronic, look into the Firecore ignition products sold by Ron on this site.  One of the best upgrades I've ever done to the car...
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firefighter3931

Try running a resistance test on your ignition wires using an ohm meter. If you're seeing more than 250 ohm/ft of resistance the wires are suspect.  :yesnod:

What plugs are you using ?  I like the NGK XR5's in mild street type builds  :2thumbs:

Is this something new ? Did it start running poorly after the new parts installation ?


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

tucknroll

It's been an ongoing  problem.

John_Kunkel


I'm with firefighter, check/replace the plug wires.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

tucknroll

One thing I noticed  today  is that both wires to the coil are pretty crusty and look like they wouldn't have the best connection. I'm going to fix that tomorrow.

tucknroll

Also, would a coil with a bad connection either  work or not work? Any in between?

XH29N0G

I would think if it had enough connection to fire for some, it would fire for all, but checking/replacing worn connections may help and could prevent problems in the longer run. 
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

myk

Erase any doubt, and replace any suspect wiring.  You said you have new plug wires but the coil wire is old?  Did you not get a new coil wire with the set?
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tucknroll

It's the 2 wires coming of the side. Not the one going into the distributor.

Dino

There could be increased resistance on those wires so you don't get the needed voltage.  Replace the whole wire if you can.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

tucknroll

Ok. I changed to electronic ignition new distributor and all and now I need the best plugs I can get. 383 2 barrel 69 charger. Could y'all let me know exactly what to ask for. Not just the brand. Thanks

XH29N0G

I would start with what Ron (Firefighter) suggested (above NGK XR5 - on the NGK site they suggest a slightly hotter plug XR4 but I would go with Ron's suggestion).  NGK makes a good plug. I would think you could check with the plus you had last in there as you said they were new.  What were those plugs?
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

Dino

I run the XR5's in my 440.  No complaints.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

tucknroll

I'll  have to check. How much should gap them? I've  never gaped  plugs before. I always just put them in as is. Do I need to go through  their website  or can auto zone get them? THANKS

XH29N0G

See what others say.  The gap could be the same with the electronic ignition or different.  I know with some it changes.  I do not know if putting the details of the electronic ignition would help others advise.  With an MSD, I believe mine are at 0.040, it looks like the NGK come at 0.039.  I thought the original was something like .035, but the electronic ignitions are supposed to have a stronger spark so can use a larger gap.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

tucknroll

My old plugs are champion  rj12yc. Will the others be at auto zone?

XH29N0G

I looked for them online (I think NGK pn 3332) and it looks like they are available online at autozone and advance, but not in stock near me).  You could check locally for you.  Alternatively you can order from one of the online autoparts suppliers like Jegs or Summit. 
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....