brake distribution block ( don't make the caliper mistake I did)

[Highbanked Hauler]

   Isn't it just a machined brass block with a pressure switch in it ? Does it have to be changed when changing to disc brakes ?

    In changing from drum to disc brakes I installed the calipers  (WITH THE BLEEDER SCREW ON THE LOW SIDE) so I always had air in the caliper with low pressure even though I was getting clear fluid when bleeding them.

    I know, I am in the running for the dumb ass award now !!

[John_Kunkel]

The distribution block doesn't need to be replaced but some would suggest adding a proportioning valve to the rear circuit. I say wait and see.

[303 Mopar]

You need a proportion valve or your back brakes will lock before the front since the disc take more fluid and pressure than drums.  You can look for an original from any disc-drum car or keep your distro block and add a proportion valve.  Many guys hide them by spicing the valve into the line after the firewall under the car.

[Highbanked Hauler]

You need a proportion valve or your back brakes will lock before the front since the disc take more fluid and pressure than drums.  You can look for an original from any disc-drum car or keep your distro block and add a proportion valve.  Many guys hide them by spicing the valve into the line after the firewall under the car.

   I wondered if  the disc block might have a larger fluid passage through it if the calipers need more fluid faster than drums. At present I have never been able to slide the rear tires on this car.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I switched to discs on the front and did NOT add a proportioning valve. Mine stops great. In a panic stop the fronts will lock up 1st, however, i am running 205/75's up front and 10" stickies out back. As far as normal driving and brisk stops, it still feels great and i have no plans at this time to add a valve.

[Highbanked Hauler]

I switched to discs on the front and did NOT add a proportioning valve. Mine stops great. In a panic stop the fronts will lock up 1st, however, i am running 205/75's up front and 10" stickies out back. As far as normal driving and brisk stops, it still feels great and i have no plans at this time to add a valve.

  What are you using for a master cylinder / and booster ?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Manual brakes, no booster. Standard 1.032 bore master cylinder available just about anywhere. I have a nice pedal with less effort required then with the 4 wheel drum. Its comfortable enough that i feel no need for a booster. If and when i convert to rear discs, i will probably up the bore to 1 1/8.

This is my mc, and i got the 4 to 2 hole adapter plate.

[Highbanked Hauler]

Manual brakes, no booster. Standard 1.032 bore master cylinder available just about anywhere. I have a nice pedal with less effort required then with the 4 wheel drum. Its comfortable enough that i feel no need for a booster. If and when i convert to rear discs, i will probably up the bore to 1 1/8.

This is my mc, and i got the 4 to 2 hole adapter plate.

   I got an aluminum master from Dr Diff, bled it,bled the system and pedal still goes to the floor.Pump it up and you get some pressure but its minimal.

[c00nhunterjoe]

If the pedal sinks, the mc is bad. If you pump it up to get the high pedal and it holds, that sounds like drums out of adjustment.

[Highbanked Hauler]

its a new master,( maybe  bad)   marginal pressure,  pumping up brings the medal 2" up off of the floor and acts like air but isn't, some pressure on the rotors but let it go and push it again and it goes right to the floor.  Napa has a NEW aluminum for $45 so I am going to give that a shot.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Def sounds bad. Did you call dr diff?

[Highbanked Hauler]

Def sounds bad. Did you call dr diff?

     Definitely going to tomorrow.Would have today if it wasn't a holiday. I do like the idea of getting by without a booster though, like you say it can be added in later..

[c00nhunterjoe]

I just saw your other post about the boosters. You have multiple problems compounding your issue.

[Highbanked Hauler]

I just saw your other post about the boosters. You have multiple problems compounding your issue.

   I took the booster out of the equation for now and would like to go with manual brakes. The booster can go in later if it is needed.

[c00nhunterjoe]

So you are having the same pedal without the booster installed? Verify pushrod length and fitment 1st, if it is correct, you have a bad mc then.

[Highbanked Hauler]

So you are having the same pedal without the booster installed? Verify pushrod length and fitment 1st, if it is correct, you have a bad mc then.

   I put in an over the counter aluminum master and same problem I am pretty sure  the PUSHROD is to short so I ordered an adjustable..

[Highbanked Hauler]

So you are having the same pedal without the booster installed? Verify pushrod length and fitment 1st, if it is correct, you have a bad mc then.

                  Got the problem fixed, I had calipers switched so the bleeder valve wasn't on the top.

[Nickrc3]

This is my mc, and i got the 4 to 2 hole adapter plate.

C00nhunterjoe, which MC are your using in your front disk conversion? Did you also change the pedal pushrod length?

[Kern Dog]

I have been around the block trying to get my brakes to feel right. I have 77 Cordoba 12" front discs, 2.75 front calipers and the rear 10.7" disc kit from Dr Diff. I've ran a 75 Dart power booster and M/C since 2001. I ran a MP 509 cam for quite a while and the meager vacuum resulted in less than stellar performance. I added a vacuum can which did help some. Later I switched to an electric vacuum pump. The brakes stopped okay, but I decided to try running an all manual brake setup. I tried 4 different master cylinders with bore sizes ranging from 16/16" to 1 1/4". They all sucked! I was able to get a firm pedal but I just couldn't get enough force to even skid the tires on gravel! I went back with the power booster setup and lived with it for awhile. Some time later, I decided to take a spare brake pedal and drill a hole 3/8" higher. This changed the mechanical leverage, also known as the "pedal ratio." The brakes felt much better and react quicker than before. In addition, I found that I had a disc/drum proportioning valve in there. 4 wheel drum and 4 wheel disc systems need NO proportioning; the proportioning is achieved through the different brake caliper sizes or wheel cylinder sizes.

Finally, the Dart booster has some adjustment to it. Remove the master cylinder, (leaving the brake lines in place) and look at the pushrod that makes contact with the master cylinder. Mine has a hex nut that can be UNscrewed to in effect, lengthen the rod. Adjust it too far out and the brakes wont let the car move. I had to adjust it a few times to get it just right.

[1974dodgecharger]

I switched to discs on the front and did NOT add a proportioning valve. Mine stops great. In a panic stop the fronts will lock up 1st, however, i am running 205/75's up front and 10" stickies out back. As far as normal driving and brisk stops, it still feels great and i have no plans at this time to add a valve.

same here cooter no valve I have my so called drum/drum setup, but switched to discs up front from a 5th avenue from 85 people said IT DOES NOT WORK, but hey it works on my car.